So last year I learned about punch rigs and watched some videos on it. I purchased some hooks and 3/4 ounce and 1 ounce sinkers. I reversed T-Rig'd the lure, which I think was a Berkley Pit Boss. I have really dense lily pads with other weeds and stuff, it's ridiculous. I've caught quite a few bass using a Ragetail Toad and Heddon Moss Boss over these pads, so I know there's fish there.
Well, firstly, I haven't gotten anything, not even a single bite. Secondly, whenever I've pulled the lure out it catches on lily pads and stuff it gets caught and then when I pull it hard I have a 3/4 to 1 ounce weight flying at my face. One time it hit my rod, luckily it didn't crack it. So, that's sort of scary. I've seen that some people use jigs for punching instead of reverse T-rig'd lures.
I've also noticed that the lake I fish has a lot of slop covered by a ton of lily pads. Perhaps too many lily pads to punch through. I saw a video where a guy tosses his T-rigged bait up in the air and it drops down through the slop. I noticed that where he was fishing had a lot of slop but few lily pads so his bait shot right down. My bait flies up and lands on the lily pads and doesn't sink because it's sitting on top of the lily pads.
Are some pads/slop just too thick to punch?
So, what am I doing wrong and how can I fix it to catch fish?
Also, how can I not have a 1 ounce lure come flying at me?
I don't mean to insult you since this is pretty basic. But do you have the weight pegged down?
On 6/4/2014 at 10:44 AM, bclark7b said:I don't mean to insult you since this is pretty basic. But do you have the weight pegged down?
This is what I have been doing.
On 6/4/2014 at 10:44 AM, bclark7b said:I don't mean to insult you since this is pretty basic. But do you have the weight pegged down?
This is what I have been doing.
I would try a forward punch rig.
On 6/4/2014 at 11:10 AM, wisconsin heat said:I would try a forward punch rig.
X2
Also when I punch I'm close to the mat and pitch the bait to punch it through. Normally the strikes will come right away if not ill shake it two or three times then punch another spot.
Ok. So after reading your post I watched this video on forward punch rigs:On 6/4/2014 at 11:10 AM, wisconsin heat said:I would try a forward punch rig.
I saw that he is Bubba Tosh and uses:
1.) Paycheck 4/0 Punch Hook
2.) Paycheck Punch Skirt
3.) Paycheck Weight Stop
4.) 1-1/2 ounce Tungsten Bullet Weight of your choice
5.) Plastic Bait of your choice such as Ragetail Craw
So, I see that you can get almost all of these parts from Tackle Warehouse. I'm wondering if this is the cheapest place to get all of this and what is the cheapest weight I can find that will work, Tungsten or otherwise because man, Tungsten weights are crazy expensive.
I also saw that some people use a bobber stop and bead vs. a rubber billet weight stop. Is that a cheaper option that works just as well or not?
On 6/4/2014 at 1:42 PM, tcbass said:I saw that he is Bubba Tosh and uses:
1.) Paycheck 4/0 Punch Hook. Most people prefer Straight-Shank hooks for punching, but EWGs will work.
2.) Paycheck Punch Skirt . Optional
3.) Paycheck Weight Stop. A regular rubber bobber stop will do fine. As long as it keeps the weight pegged, it's good.
4.) 1-1/2 ounce Tungsten Bullet Weight of your choice Doesn't necessarily need to be 1+ ounces. The more dense the vegetation, the heavier the weight.
5.) Plastic Bait of your choice such as Ragetail Craw
So, I see that you can get almost all of these parts from Tackle Warehouse. I'm wondering if this is the cheapest place to get all of this and what is the cheapest weight I can find that will work, Tungsten or otherwise because man, Tungsten weights are crazy expensive.
tungsten is preferred but not needed. But a lead weight above 3/4 ounce is going to be huge.
I also saw that some people use a bobber stop and bead vs. a rubber billet weight stop. Is that a cheaper option that works just as well or not?
Bobber stop is fine, Bead is optional.
Goto Bayou Outdoors & look up Cyclone Slip-n-Jig!
It's what we call a Texas Rigged Jig!
Jig head comes with a skirt which I zip-tie in place.
$3.97 ea
Just a few:
http://www.basstackledepot.com/cyclone-slip-n-jig.aspx
Strike King and V&M also make them as do many other companies.
I don't use a punch rig just because of what the OP described, the water I fish have large leaf pads that are thick with large stems and what happens is when you get the bait down and give it a shake or two the line almost always ends up in the "V" of the lily pad. In sparse pads it can be done but so can a heavy T-rig and grass jigs, and the other problem is the broad leaf lilies tend to grow out of the water as well so it is almost impossible to see the holes in which to fish. I have been able to successfully punch matter coontail and spatterdock but heavy, thick pad fields are tough even with 65# braid, the best thing to do is fish the spots with what is effective and the punch rig isn't always going to be the best choice.
I use pre rigged punch weights from siebert outdoors and can get through the thickest of the thick the north has to offer (which might not be near as thick as some stuff they punch in florida) with great success. I fish a few ponds that are all lillys. Literally you cant see the water and have not had trouble getting the rig down
On 6/4/2014 at 11:16 PM, frantzracing0 said:I use pre rigged punch weights from siebert outdoors and can get through the thickest of the thick the north has to offer (which might not be near as thick as some stuff they punch in florida) with great success. I fish a few ponds that are all lillys. Literally you cant see the water and have not had trouble getting the rig down
I saw Sieberts punch rig jig. $5.39. Yikes!
On 6/4/2014 at 11:57 PM, tcbass said:I saw Sieberts punch rig jig. $5.39. Yikes!
Don't forget Sieberts is a tungsten rig, That is less money than most and better made.
On 6/5/2014 at 12:07 AM, doyle8218 said:Don't forget Sieberts is a tungsten rig, That is less money than most and better made.
True. But who can afford that for each lure? lol
On 6/5/2014 at 12:18 AM, tcbass said:True. But who can afford that for each lure? lol
5 bucks isn't much. A lucky craft will set you back 15, a megabass 25 and those california guys sometimes drop a hundred plus on each swimbait. Buy it right the first time, so you don't have to buy it a second time.
Also when you're punching, you better be using a heavy braid. Tie a good knot and you won't be losing that tungsten sinker very often. I've had a 3 pack of tungsten weights last me over a year of fishing. It's not a bad price because you probably aren't going to lose it.
FYI: use the Texas Rigged Jig in 3/16 or 1/4 oz with a Rage Tail Lobster on deep steucture!
The weight of the punch rig could be too light. 1oz is a lot but it all depends on the matting. 3/4-1 oz should work in most instances unless you are getting into real thick mats. One of my tricks when punching lily pads is if I land on top of one, hop the rig to the edge and let it fall off the pad do not pull it off. By hopping it will give the weight a little more bounce off the side. It just takes a little jiggle to pull the bait to the edge. Then the rig should fall straight down to the bottom through the pads. From there I will bounce the rig a few times and if I do not get bit drag the rig back up and move to the next spot. Do not pull or snap the rig back or like you said it can fly back at you. I use to use a 7'3 rod for this and now have switched to a 7'11" and that in its self has made a lot of difference in punching. Heavy braid is also key here. I have also found keeping your pitches/flips relatively short at first will help. As you gain confidence and learn the little tricks the pitches will get longer.
On 6/5/2014 at 4:34 AM, Siebert Outdoors said:The weight of the punch rig could be too light. 1oz is a lot but it all depends on the matting. 3/4-1 oz should work in most instances unless you are getting into real thick mats. One of my tricks when punching lily pads is if I land on top of one, hop the rig to the edge and let it fall off the pad do not pull it off. By hopping it will give the weight a little more bounce off the side. It just takes a little jiggle to pull the bait to the edge. Then the rig should fall straight down to the bottom through the pads. From there I will bounce the rig a few times and if I do not get bit drag the rig back up and move to the next spot. Do not pull or snap the rig back or like you said it can fly back at you. I use to use a 7'3 rod for this and now have switched to a 7'11" and that in its self has made a lot of difference in punching. Heavy braid is also key here. I have also found keeping your pitches/flips relatively short at first will help. As you gain confidence and learn the little tricks the pitches will get longer.
How far from the boat do you pitch?
I know you're supposed to pitch close to the boat, but if you are only pitching close you'll have to move your boat into the pads a lot and I don't want to disturb the fish by going deep into the pads. You could basically only really fish the edges.
On 6/5/2014 at 6:45 AM, tcbass said:How far from the boat do you pitch?
I know you're supposed to pitch close to the boat, but if you are only pitching close you'll have to move your boat into the pads a lot and I don't want to disturb the fish by going deep into the pads. You could basically only really fish the edges.
You will find it doesn't disturb the bass as much as you think.
On 6/5/2014 at 11:19 AM, Catt said:You will find it doesn't disturb the bass as much as you think.
Agreed!!
To guess I'd say 10-15 yards.
On 6/5/2014 at 11:19 AM, Catt said:You will find it doesn't disturb the bass as much as you think.
Well, getting thru all that slop would be hard to. lol. I don't think my 80lbs Terrova would be able to make it that far.
When fishing lily pads I'm in a south Louisiana marsh in an aluminum boat so maneuvering is easier.
There will be a percentage of our cast, flips, pitches, or punches that will result in a hang-up!
I accept that inconvence, try to minimize them, get un-hung quickly, & move on.
I also use lighter weights, any where from weightless to 1/4 oz. I flip/pitch to all opening first!
Up in Canada last year we had great success in lily pads using a weightless senko texas rigged. Cast into the pads and jiggle it until it falls down between them, then drag it out and jiggle it to the next one. Didn't get caught in the pads much and the bass loved it. The pads up there are only in a couple of feet of water, so it was easy and quick to fish a whole cast.
On 6/5/2014 at 12:18 AM, tcbass said:True. But who can afford that for each lure? lol
If a punch skirt is included, a Punch Craw is a '5-component' rig
(tungsten sinker - superline hook - rubber skirt - plastic craw - bobber stop)
I just tallied the component cost of the 1-1/2 oz Punch Craw I use in Florida,
which came to $11.98 (tungsten sinker: $7 <> Other 4-components: $5)
Roger
Well a Dt6 is running 8$ .. sieberts,it's a tungston rig... Well worth the less than 6$ .. That's about the best way to bust thru the salad... I have a few 1 1/2 oz. rigs... If you're serious about getting it thru that's the way to do it!
Any rate , good luck to ya!
On 6/6/2014 at 4:11 AM, Alonerankin2 said:Well a Dt6 is running 8$ .. sieberts,it's a tungston rig... Well worth the less than 6$ .. That's about the best way to bust thru the salad... I have a few 1 1/2 oz. rigs... If you're serious about getting it thru that's the way to do it!
Any rate , good luck to ya!
You mean the Seiberts punch jig is the way to go?
Heck 5.39 for a whole rig is cheap! You can pay more than that for the tungsten weight alone. Another key to punching is to use a very slim profile plastic with few appendages. You want to minimize the things that can hang up. It's a really fun and effective way to catch em in the summer.
On 6/6/2014 at 10:50 AM, tcbass said:You mean the Seiberts punch jig is the way to go?
Yes sir, that is right.