So which trolling motor batteries do you guys like? 2024

I'm looking at replacing my batteries soon and wanted some opinions.  I have a Motor Guide 107 Tour Edition.

I've had good service with Everstarts in 12V, 24V, and 36V applications.

ACDelco M27MF

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I've had good service with Everstarts in 12V, 24V, and 36V applications.

Same here.  I usually get around 3-4 years out of a pair. 

I've tried a lot and Pro Guide 200 reserve amp batteries give my 4 years and are still going strong when I give them away to one of my cheap friends.

Not me!  Those are two year batteries if you use them very much.

Trojan or Deka's. 

If your onboard charger will do AGM look at the Deka group 31.  They usually give you 5 - 6 years of fairly regular use.   Trojan SSC225 are very good flooded cell batteries.

Trojan is also a good battery but I get Deka's wholesale and they are just as good if not a little better.

If you gave me a Optima, I would use it as a trade-in for a Deka or Trojan.

I use AC Delco size 29 in my boat.  I had a set through 6 years of heavy use and they were still going strong.  But I replaced them anyway with a new set simply because they were getting old.

I use Stowaway

I had good luck with Trojan batteries. They lasted a full 6 years. Replaced them with Everstart and only got 2 years out of them.

I used to work at Deka. Their batteries are top notch high quality.

On 3 different boats I've had 3 everstart cranking batteries and 2 everstart trolling batteries for 4 years and they're still going strong. Works for me.

I am using Interstate Batteries & have been for a long time. Having spent 21 years as a Submarine electrician I can tell you for sure that if you keep them maintained they will last 4 to 5 years easy. I use my boat between 180 & 220 days a year for the past several years. Here is what I do.

1- Check the water level every couple of weeks & in the summer do it weekly. Use distilled water when adding water. (Very Important)

2- Clean tops & post with a damp rag after checking water levels. Make sure to dry good.

3- Put batteries on charge as soon as you return home. Helps to prevent sulfating. (very Important)

4- Deep cycle your batteries. I use mine more than most so I do it once every 4 to 6 weeks. Run your trolling motor to your batteries quit then go in an charge them. This drives the sulfate from the plates (Very Important)

5- I leave my charger plug in when ever my boat is not in use

I am running a 2008 Ranger Z-21 with a Minn Kota 460 on board charger.(4 banks @ 15 amps per bank) & a Minn Kota 101 trolling motor

These maintenance steps will increase the life of any new battery. I said new because there is no sulfate build up yet. Doing this with a battery that you have been using for sometime will help but you will have sulfate build up. I would make sure you have the proper amount of water & do the deep cycle step to start with. I hope this helps & good luck with your battery choice

Good advice SCBasser.

The Trojan SC225 series marine deep cycle, group 29 or 31, batteries are a wet cell type and one of the best on the market.

I use a Flow-Rite watering system and Stay N Charge "All Charge" system to maintain the batteries while towing and fishing. On board multi bank charger when in the garage.

Delco 75 series or equal group 29 or 31 marine deep cycle gel type batteries are good.

If weight is an issue take a look the Optima blue tops.

Make sure your rig has a switched 50 amp circuit breaker and turn off the cranking battery when garage charging to prevent damaging the on board electronics; engine and boat.

WRB

I'm gonna really tick somebody off big time but I get sick and tired of reading post by the different "IDIOTS" that say deep drain a deep cycle battery, run your trolling motor until it quits.  You DO NOT fully discharge deep cycle batteries.  Doing so greatly shortens the life and is actually doing damage to the battery.   Those that think that, and those that think you should charge one at 2 amps need to do a little research and get yourself educated so you can make "educated statements" and not what you think is right.   Too many people read these post to be giving "Totally Bad" info.

You can come back with all the hype you want, I will not respond again, but let's see if you can find on statement from a battery company of other reliable source that say's otherwise.  Maybe you can learn something about batteries trying to find one.

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Good advice SCBasser.

The Trojan SC225 series marine deep cycle, group 29 or 31, batteries are a wet cell type and one of the best on the market.

I use a Flow-Rite watering system and Stay N Charge "All Charge" system to maintain the batteries while towing and fishing. On board multi bank charger when in the garage.

Delco 75 series or equal group 29 or 31 marine deep cycle gel type batteries are good.

If weight is an issue take a look the Optima blue tops.

Make sure your rig has a switched 50 amp circuit breaker and turn off the cranking battery when garage charging to prevent damaging the on board electronics; engine and boat.

WRB

Why disconnect the cranking battery when garage charging?  The on-board electronics will not be harmed by the battery charger.  To the electronics, the charger looks just like a well charged battery. 

Wow looks like I put Way2slow's shorts in a big wad. After rereading my post using the words trolling motor quits was a bad choice of words. I pull my batteries down until in the high speed it's not pulling the boat around very well. (in the 10 volt range) I did state that I had a charger that had 15 amps per bank, not thinking that someone would be using a charger that charges at 2 amps per bank. I have had a bass boat since 1974 & never had a charger that did not have a output of less than 10 amps. I never had a on board charger that had less than 10 amps per bank. Now to be clear on how often I pull the batteries down. I average 15 to 18 days a month on the water over a years time. In the spring & fall I exceed that average. In those months I am running the trolling motor most of the day so I might go 7 to 8 weeks with out deep cycling. Because of some days due to wind I have to run on high all day( that pulls the battery down far enough). If I am doing a lot of running on the outboard I'll do it sooner 4 to 6 weeks. If you top cycle a deep cycle battery it will sulfate sooner therefore shorting the life of the battery. I also would not use anything less than a 10 amp per battery to charge it back I have been maintaining my batteries like that since 1974 & before that I was a electrician on diesel electric submarines for 21 years. so I think I am qualified. We did things that you will never find in a manual.

As far as ticking me off, it never happened. I just hope you did not have to have the doc hook you to an I.V. full of blood pressure medicine.

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Good advice SCBasser.

The Trojan SC225 series marine deep cycle, group 29 or 31, batteries are a wet cell type and one of the best on the market.

I use a Flow-Rite watering system and Stay N Charge "All Charge" system to maintain the batteries while towing and fishing. On board multi bank charger when in the garage.

Delco 75 series or equal group 29 or 31 marine deep cycle gel type batteries are good.

If weight is an issue take a look the Optima blue tops.

Make sure your rig has a switched 50 amp circuit breaker and turn off the cranking battery when garage charging to prevent damaging the on board electronics; engine and boat.

WRB

Why disconnect the cranking battery when garage charging? The on-board electronics will not be harmed by the battery charger. To the electronics, the charger looks just like a well charged battery.

It's like hooking up the battery charger directly to the electronic wires attached to the battery.

If you unplug your sonar/GPS unit, including built-ins, and disconnect (switch-off) the power cable from the OB engine, then you will not get charging current to the PC boards, otherwise you can damage the them. The newer sonar/GPS and OB's have memory chips etc that get damaged by charging cranking batteries used to run the electronics.

WRB

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Wow looks like I put Way2slow's shorts in a big wad. After rereading my post using the words trolling motor quits was a bad choice of words. I pull my batteries down until in the high speed it's not pulling the boat around very well. (in the 10 volt range) I did state that I had a charger that had 15 amps per bank, not thinking that someone would be using a charger that charges at 2 amps per bank. I have had a bass boat since 1974 & never had a charger that did not have a output of less than 10 amps. I never had a on board charger that had less than 10 amps per bank. Now to be clear on how often I pull the batteries down. I average 15 to 18 days a month on the water over a years time. In the spring & fall I exceed that average. In those months I am running the trolling motor most of the day so I might go 7 to 8 weeks with out deep cycling. Because of some days due to wind I have to run on high all day( that pulls the battery down far enough). If I am doing a lot of running on the outboard I'll do it sooner 4 to 6 weeks. If you top cycle a deep cycle battery it will sulfate sooner therefore shorting the life of the battery. I also would not use anything less than a 10 amp per battery to charge it back I have been maintaining my batteries like that since 1974 & before that I was a electrician on diesel electric submarines for 21 years. so I think I am qualified. We did things that you will never find in a manual.

As far as ticking me off, it never happened. I just hope you did not have to have the doc hook you to an I.V. full of blood pressure medicine.

I didn't read into the #4 statement that you should drain the battery dead, although it can happen. Never let a wet cell battery get so low on water that the top of the plates are dry. If that happens; disconnect the battery and remove it from the boat. You can add distilled water to cover the plates and hard charge it with a 50+ amp charger and load test. If the battery doesn't charge back up to 13V+ or fails the load test, don't try to use the battery in series with another good battery; 1 good + 1 bad battery= 2 bad batteries. Try to keep the batteries equal, they will last a lot longer.

WRB

To SCbassin and way2slow. I am a retired Senior Chief Torpedoman and was taught something about batteries in the Navy. I was taught to fully discharge individual battery cells completely(down to zero volts) as a maintenance procedure at a regular intervals. However this was for batteries that the plates were made of Silver and zinc(and other materials), not lead. I do not remember what type of battery cells were on the diesel boats. I have learned since I retired that these maintenance procedures to not apply to lead/acid batteries. You do not totally discharge lead/acid batteries as a maintenance procedure as it shortens the life of the battery.

This may explain your difference of opinion........Al

To Redlinerrobert: I recommend Deka or Trojan from personal experience but have a close friend that really likes AC Delco.

WRB, what is the difference in charging the starting battery with a separate charger and charging it with the outboard motor alternator as far a damage to the electronics???????? Some of the larger outboard alternators have a higher amp output than any portable or boat mounted chargers but charge at the same voltage. Your recommendation makes absolutely no sense.

Thanks AL. The diesel boats had lead/ acid batteries deep cycle batteries. If I remember right 1 cell was about 2ft square & 5 ft tall (I have to look my Quals book). We had to charge them every 3 to 4 days in port, every night before going to sea & at sea. Then every 30 days came the equalizer. When you top cycle a lead acid deep cell battery it causes it to build up sulfate on the plates(shorted the life). In my 1st post I use a poor choice of words in which waytoslow brought to my attention. He reminded me of being a non qual again. ;D In my 2nd post I hope everyone understood not to bring your battery to zero volts that will cause you to have big problems. I am sure most of you have had days that by the end of the day your trolling motor was give out. Head to the hill & put it on charge ASAP. Use a decent size charger, I just plug my 15 amp per bank on board charger. If you one of those big ones make sure you don't boil the batteries over as the heat will warp the plates.

Now with all that being said Al & waytoslow have said that the battery manufacturers have said not to do what I called item 4. I have noticed these type batteries being called wet cells. Maybe the plates are being made of a different material as lead is suppose to be bad for your health. So lets scratch item 4 from my 1st post

I have six Trojan six volt batteries in my golf cart that I run around the camp ground in & I have more than once had to push or get a tow back to the camper to charge the batteries. In fact it happens on a regular basis. In January those batteries will be 9 years old. I don't use them in my boat because of the weight. They are heavier than the interstates I am using & with a Yamaha 250 HPDI hanging on a 10" Hyd jack plate, power pole, 4 batteries & 2 live wells full of water I am pushing the weight limit in the back of the boat.

I hope everyone has a Happy Thanksgiving

Well, I lied, so I am making one more post because a fully discharged 12V battery is a battery that down to approx 11.6 volts but should never really be brought below 12 volts.

A little from just one of many info sights you can go and learn about batteries. 

Battery life is directly related to how deep the battery is cycled each time. If a battery is discharged to 50% every day, it will last about twice as long as if it is cycled to 80% DOD. If cycled only 10% DOD, it will last about 5 times as long as one cycled to 50%. Obviously, there are some practical limitations on this - you don't usually want to have a 5 ton pile of batteries sitting there just to reduce the DOD. The most practical number to use is 50% DOD on a regular basis. This does NOT mean you cannot go to 80% once in a while. It's just that when designing a system when you have some idea of the loads, you should figure on an average DOD of around 50% for the best storage vs cost factor. Also, there is an upper limit - a battery that is continually cycled 5% or less will usually not last as long as one cycled down 10%. This happens because at very shallow cycles, the Lead Dioxide tends to build up in clumps on the the positive plates rather in an even film. The graph above shows how lifespan is affected by depth of discharge. The chart is for a Concorde Lifeline battery, but all lead-acid batteries will be similar in the shape of the curve, although the number of cycles will vary.

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Battery Voltages

All Lead-Acid batteries supply about 2.14 volts per cell (12.6 to 12.8 for a 12 volt battery) when fully charged. Batteries that are stored for long periods will eventually lose all their charge. This "leakage" or self discharge varies considerably with battery type, age, & temperature. It can range from about 1% to 15% per month. Generally, new AGM batteries have the lowest, and old industrial (Lead-Antimony plates) are the highest. In systems that are continually connected to some type charging source, whether it is solar, wind, or an AC powered charger this is seldom a problem. However, one of the biggest killers of batteries is sitting stored in a partly discharged state for a few months. A "float" charge should be maintained on the batteries even if they are not used (or, especially if they are not used). Even most "dry charged" batteries (those sold without electrolyte so they can be shipped more easily, with acid added later) will deteriorate over time. Max storage life on those is about 2-3 years.

Batteries self-discharge faster at higher temperatures. Lifespan can also be seriously reduced at higher temperatures - most manufacturers state this as a 50% loss in life for every 15 degrees F over a 77 degree cell temperature. Lifespan is increased at the same rate if below 77 degrees, but capacity is reduced. This tends to even out in most systems - they will spend part of their life at higher temperatures, and part at lower.

Myth: The old myth about not storing batteries on concrete floors is just that - a myth. This old story has been around for 100 years, and originated back when battery cases were made up of wood and asphalt. The acid would leak from them, and form a slow-discharging circuit through the now acid-soaked and conductive floor.

State of Charge

State of charge, or conversely, the depth of discharge (DOD) can be determined by measuring the voltage and/or the specific gravity of the acid with a hydrometer. This will NOT tell you how good (capacity in AH) the battery condition is - only a sustained load test can do that. Voltage on a fully charged battery will read 2.12 to 2.15 volts per cell, or 12.7 volts for a 12 volt battery. At 50% the reading will be 2.03 VPC (Volts Per Cell), and at 0% will be 1.75 VPC or less. Specific gravity will be about 1.265 for a fully charged cell, and 1.13 or less for a totally discharged cell. This can vary with battery types and brands somewhat - when you buy new batteries you should charge them up and let them sit for a while, then take a reference measurement. Many batteries are sealed, and hydrometer reading cannot be taken, so you must rely on voltage. Hydrometer readings may not tell the whole story, as it takes a while for the acid to get mixed up in wet cells. If measured right after charging, you might see 1.27 at the top of the cell, even though it is much less at the bottom. This does not apply to gelled or AGM batteries.

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Good advice SCBasser.

The Trojan SC225 series marine deep cycle, group 29 or 31, batteries are a wet cell type and one of the best on the market.

I use a Flow-Rite watering system and Stay N Charge "All Charge" system to maintain the batteries while towing and fishing. On board multi bank charger when in the garage.

Delco 75 series or equal group 29 or 31 marine deep cycle gel type batteries are good.

If weight is an issue take a look the Optima blue tops.

Make sure your rig has a switched 50 amp circuit breaker and turn off the cranking battery when garage charging to prevent damaging the on board electronics; engine and boat.

WRB

Why disconnect the cranking battery when garage charging? The on-board electronics will not be harmed by the battery charger. To the electronics, the charger looks just like a well charged battery.

It's like hooking up the battery charger directly to the electronic wires attached to the battery.

If you unplug your sonar/GPS unit, including built-ins, and disconnect (switch-off) the power cable from the OB engine, then you will not get charging current to the PC boards, otherwise you can damage the them. The newer sonar/GPS and OB's have memory chips etc that get damaged by charging cranking batteries used to run the electronics.

WRB

WRB, you may know a lot about fishing, but you don't know squat about electronics.  Conversely, I don't know squat about fishing, but I now a lot about electronics.  To put it mildly, you have no idea what you are talking about.  It's best that you change the subject.

Wow, Long Mike you're starting to sound like me.

I was not going to get into that one because I figured I had stirred the pot enough with the battery.

Even though, there is a hellavalot more danger to the engines electronics using a circuit breaker to connect and disconnect the cranking battery. Connecteding/disconnecting the cranking battery, the voltage spike generated has way more potential of wiping out electronic components than the onboard charger. That's one of the main points in having an onboard, to keep from having to connect and disconnect anything that could generated sparks. People don't realize, even though they are only dealing with a 12 volt battery, the spike generated can be hundreds of volts. The capactive affect of the battery will assorb much of it but sometimes it's in the wire being disconnected and not on the battery side, those create very expensive problems, blown requlator/rectifier is the most common but power packs and ECM's are not emune.

One work of caution while on the subject, never, ever connect jumper cables to the cranking battery. If you're going to jump off another boat, use your TM batteries. If your cranking battery is down, and you use a TM battery to jump it off, you're taking a big chance. Charge the battery, don't jump it off or let you're engine electric system charge it. You can very easily blow the regulator of burn out the charging system trying to charge a dead/bad battery.

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Wow, Long Mike you're starting to sound like me.

I was not going to get into that one because I figured I had stirred the pot enough with the battery.

Even though, there is a hellavalot more danger to the engines electronics using a circuit breaker to connect and disconnect the cranking battery. Connecteding/disconnecting the cranking battery, the voltage spike generated has way more potential of wiping out electronic components than the onboard charger. That's one of the main points in having an onboard, to keep from having to connect and disconnect anything that could generated sparks. People don't realize, even though they are only dealing with a 12 volt battery, the spike generated can be hundreds of volts. The capactive affect of the battery will assorb much of it but sometimes it's in the wire being disconnected and not on the battery side, those create very expensive problems, blown requlator/rectifier is the most common but power packs and ECM's are not emune.

One work of caution while on the subject, never, ever connect jumper cables to the cranking battery. If you're going to jump off another boat, use your TM batteries. If your cranking battery is down, and you use a TM battery to jump it off, you're taking a big chance. Charge the battery, don't jump it off or let you're engine electric system charge it. You can very easily blow the regulator of burn out the charging system trying to charge a dead/bad battery.

Sanity finally prevails.  Thanks for your timely input Way2Slow.

First off - if you have a differing viewpoint, that's fine - nothing wrong with that.  But there's no need to go after the person you disagree with either.  Let's keep it civil. It is, after all, just batteries.

Second - you guys have me confused.  I was told explicitly by my dealer to always turn off the circuit breakers before charging (I have 2: one for the TM, the other for the cranking batt.).  I have always done so without incident for over 6 years.

Also, I had a dead cranking battery once, and jumped it with my TM batteries.  Then we ran around the lake and let the engine charge it for awhile.

Now you guys are saying not to do that?  I'm not saying you're wrong, it's just that I've never heard anything to the contrary for years until now. So I'm a bit surprised. 

Then again, maybe I misunderstood.  Also note that ALL my batteries are deep cycle batteries, including my cranking battery.  So perhaps that's the difference.

Glenn,

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't you turning off the circuit breaker to you electrical system and not one that's disconnecting the cranking battery from the charger.  Where the problem comes in is connecting and disconnecting from the cranking battery.  The rectifier/regulator that charges the battery is always connected to the battery, turning the switch off or turning off the circuit breakers for the boat, does not disconnect it.   Any time you connect something of a different potential (voltage) or something that's going to place a load on the battery, there is always going to be an arc.  The peak voltage spike caused by this arc can be several hundred volts.  As I mentioned, the capacitor  affect of the battery will normally asorb this, but when the planets line up just right and the moon phase is right, that might not happen and that voltage plays havoc on your engine electronics.  Usually it get the reg/rec at about $300 but can get into the ECM.   You may connect jumper cables to it a dozen times and not bother a thing, but the 13th time and a few days later you find it's not charging, think back to when connected/disconnected the battery or jumper cables.   

The problem with using the motor to charge your battery is that can burn out the stator or reg/rec.  The charging system in outboards is not very robust and is basically designed to replace what you used cranking the motor and running the electronics.  Normally when someone has to jump a battery off, it's because it's no good.  A bad battery usually will not charge to full potential but the charging system is going to keep on cranking power into it trying.  It's not long before it finally overheats and again, the stator or reg/rec burns out.  The charging system burning out because of a bad battery is very common in automobiles also.  A bad battery can make just about any charging system to go up in smoke.

I know I came on a little strong with my rebutal of the battery post but sooo many times I see people posting on here how you should run a deep cycle battery completely down and that's just totally wrong and causes damage to the battery.  Also those that say it's best to charge one at 2 amps, that's not enough.  Approx 10% of the batteries rated capacity is the recommended  charge current.  For a group 24 you can figure approx 80ah, group 27 105Ah and 30/31 120Ah.  So, you would use 8 amps, 10 amps or 12 amps to charge them.   Then you have somebody that says run it all the way down, and then crank a massive amount of charge current into it.  That's a double whammy of being wrong.

Discharged to 50% and recharged, you can get 400 - 500 cycles, (days of fishing) out of most good grades of deep cycle batteries and the battery is properly maintained.  Improper use and charging practices, you may only get one season out of the same style battery.  It's usually not the battery that dies, it's the owner that destroys it long before it's normal life expectancy.

I am like Long mike in that I don't know a lot about fishing. I also don't know much about batteries and charging systems. What I do know is that when I bought new electronics for my boat, I called Lowrance and talked to them about how to correctly power their units and what to avoid. They told me that running my units off the cranking battery was fine, and that charging, whether by the motor or an on-board charger was not going to damage the electronics. I asked about switching or disconnecting and was told it was not necessary.

Yep, I'm talking about the breaker between the batteries and the boat, not between the batteries and the charger (I don't think there is one anyway).

And that battery that needed jumping? There was nothing wrong with it. It was brand new, I just drained with my stereo.  Oops!

So if I have a series 29 deep cycle marine battery, you're saying charge it at 15amps?  That seems high, mainly because I've heard numerous times the phrase "charge it like you use it" meaning, if you drain it slowly, charge it slowly.

I have never seen a circuit breaker between the charger & batteries either but that does not mean that some could not have one. What I have seen is a Perko switch(off & on) on the hot lead between the engine & battery. It is used to protect the electronics in the engine during a charge. It's turned off before hooking up your charger. Maybe that is what was meant.

It's not a good idea to to jump a battery it could play hell with your electronics or worse if it was shorted & gassing a spark from the jumper & the battery could blow the top off the battery. This goes for your car also. Now in the real world most of us do it or have done it. I would have to be hard pressed to do now though. Engine electronics are to expensive now a days.

Glenn it is not a good idea to use a deep cycle battery for a cranking battery. They are designed to be deep cycled & not top cycled. That will shorten the life of that battery.

I have never heard that saying, but as a battery discharges it sulfates & when you get back you want to reverse that process asap because the sulfation is what shortens the life of your battery (as it hardens on the plates it lowers the capacity of the battery). I use the 4 bank 15 amp charger to get this as soon as possible. You never get all the sulfation off the plates but the quicker you get to it & get it done the more you get. As a battery is charging it is taking less amperage as it comes up. (If you are charging 1 battery you notice your meter is decreasing as your battery charges). Your cranking battery usually will finish 1st. because it not as discharge as the T/M batteries with my charger those 15 amps will have switched as needed therefore getting the charge over quicker.

Interstate batteries all the way.

Thanks for the info.  It makes sense.

I have a 4-bank, 15amp onboard charger, so I guess I'm fine.

The breaker shuts off all power to the boat, including the engine. 

I have a deep-cycle battery for the cranking battery because the stereo will drain a normal cranking battery during the course of the day.  That's how I drained the original cranking battery, and nearly drained it several times after that until I made the switch.  I'll drain it down during the course of the day just like a normal trolling motor battery. Since I use the stereo every time I go out, a deep-cycle battery is the only way to go for me.  Your mileage may vary.   

Most so called deep cycle batteries are not truely deep cycle, the are about 85% deep cycle and 15% cranking.  The will actaully have more cranking amps than many of the straight cranking batteries.  If a battery is a pure deep cycle, it will usually only have the AmpHour capacity on the label.  If it have CCA, it's intended to be used as a cranking battery also.  The big difference is they will only deliver that CCA for several seconds, which is more than enough to start most motors.  If it's a hard to start motor, then they can get you in trouble by making the motor even harder to start or not start at all because they don't have the reserve CCA to maintain full voltage while the starter is spinning.

AGM TM batteries will give you more CCA than almost any straight flooded cell cranking battery made to fit in the boat.

Glenn, there is no way you could ever fish with me.  I don't even listen to the radio in my vehicle and I dang sure ain't gonna listen to one while fishing.  If a person turned on a radio in my boat, it would be a toss up on what hit the water first, them or their radio.

I use it to listen to NASCAR. 

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