Who uses them? I thought they took away from the action, but I have heard some talk that they make it better. Opinions??? It sure would be a heck of a lot faster and easier to change colors and styles.
NO! NOOO! NOOOOO!!!!!!!!
Use a snap.
Kelley
I'm confident you've misunderstood something here; most folks use plain snaps on their cranks, or tie direct. I'd be very surprised to hear that anyone uses a snap-swivel combination. That's a tad too much hardware and will probably have a negative effect on the action of your crankbaits. Just use a plain (no swivel) "Duo-Lock" or "Cross Lock" snap and you'll do just fine.
QuoteI'm confident you've misunderstood something here; most folks use plain snaps on their cranks, or tie direct. I'd be very surprised to hear that anyone uses a snap-swivel combination. That's a tad too much hardware and will probably have a negative effect on the action of your crankbaits. Just use a plain (no swivel) "Duo-Lock" or "Cross Lock" snap and you'll do just fine.
x2
Just a plain wire snap, no swivel.
Tie direct!
I know a couple of 70+ old geezers who use snap swivels. They ain't going to change and I've found it's a waste of breath to tell them. They grew up learning how to fish that way.
Me, I think snap swivels are bad. The vast majority of the lures I buy either have a split ring or a snap attached to the lure and I tie direct to that.
QuoteWho uses them? I thought they took away from the action, but I have heard some talk that they make it better. Opinions??? It sure would be a heck of a lot faster and easier to change colors and styles.[/quoUse a Berkley Cross Lock..not a "SnapSwivel".
so if you use a crosslock snap on a bait that has a split ring do you need to remove the split ring? if you didn't i think the angle would be off. baits like the wiggle wart come with a snap, others come with a split ring. i would think that to use a snap on a bait that came with a split ring you would want to remove the split ring first...True or not true?
I never remove the split rings unless I need it for something else. Lures works just fine with or without them, I do both tie as well as use duolock, see no difference in amount of fish caught.
NEVER REMOVE THE SPLIT RING.
It is placed there to make the lure act as engineered.
Use a snap or a crossover - never a swivel.
If you use a snap then remove the split ring or tie directly to the split ring. I prefer snaps because I like to change baits often.
QuoteQuoteI'm confident you've misunderstood something here; most folks use plain snaps on their cranks, or tie direct. I'd be very surprised to hear that anyone uses a snap-swivel combination. That's a tad too much hardware and will probably have a negative effect on the action of your crankbaits. Just use a plain (no swivel) "Duo-Lock" or "Cross Lock" snap and you'll do just fine.x2
X3.
Ok thanks guys. I think I did hear that wrong about the "snap-swivel".
Argh. I have been using a snap/swivel instead of just a regular snap/clasp.
I am not so used to one way or the other to not be able to change, I just thought
snap = for ease of changing lures
swivel = to help free up the motion of the lure
This is not right? They tend to be running alright, as far as I can tell, but what do I know :-[
I do have some regular ol' snaps (w/o swivels) I can try. I do not care which one I use, I am just glad to not have to tie direct each time :-/
There 's only one lure I fish with a snap-swivel combination and that is an in-line spinner, I haven 't found yet an in-line spinner that doesn 't twist the line no matter what the manufacturer claims, they all rotate when the blade rotates, the snap-swivel avoids the line from twisting.
QuoteI know a couple of 70+ old geezers who use snap swivels. They ain't going to change and I've found it's a waste of breath to tell them. They grew up learning how to fish that way.Me, I think snap swivels are bad. The vast majority of the lures I buy either have a split ring or a snap attached to the lure and I tie direct to that.
x2
What about flutter spoons? I do have one on those.
QuoteThere 's only one lure I fish with a snap-swivel combination and that is an in-line spinner, I haven 't found yet an in-line spinner that doesn 't twist the line no matter what the manufacturer claims, they all rotate when the blade rotates, the snap-swivel avoids the line from twisting.
x2... AND for most spoon-type lures too, i.e. Johnson Silver Minnows, etc.
I use a Palomar knot most of the time, and HATE trying to get that 'loop' around all those treble hooks on crankbaits. I also have a phobia that my line will cut/snag on that little split area of the split-ring, so I use a snap (only) for that reason and for quicker lure changes. I snap to the split-ring if there is one...
I direct-tie all my single-hook applications - i.e. plastics, worms, tubes, etc.
Hope that helps!
I used snaps for a long time, but just recently quit using them because I heard it's better to tie straight on... I saved a lot of line using a snap I guess it's better to tie directly on too because then it forces you to check your line and retie!
QuoteI used snaps for a long time, but just recently quit using them because I heard it's better to tie straight on... I saved a lot of line using a snap I guess it's better to tie directly on too because then it forces you to check your line and retie!
The deal is: the snap is not ever going to eliminate the need to check/cut and retie oftlenly, that 's something you have to do with the snap or without it, if you don 't do it don 't be surprised you loose lures and fish out of pure laziness, nobody or nothing forces you to do it, checking/cutting and retying is a matter of procedure.
QuoteQuoteI used snaps for a long time, but just recently quit using them because I heard it's better to tie straight on... I saved a lot of line using a snap I guess it's better to tie directly on too because then it forces you to check your line and retie!The deal is: the snap is not ever going to eliminate the need to check/cut and retie oftlenly, that 's something you have to do with the snap or without it, if you don 't do it don 't be surprised you loose lures and fish out of pure laziness, nobody or nothing forces you to do it, checking/cutting and retying is a matter of procedure.
Your right, but if you're tying directly on, and you forget stuff all the time like I do, you at least have to retie when you change lures. You may not understand because I forget things in a snap Maybe your memory is better than mine
Any suggested snap brands?
QuoteNEVER REMOVE THE SPLIT RING.It is placed there to make the lure act as engineered.
Use a snap or a crossover - never a swivel.
your statement does not pan out scientifically. if the weight and radius of the bend of the snap is even close to the same as the split ring there would be no difference from an engineering stand point. in fact there would be one if you didn't.
Me personally, I use snaps but remove the split rings but I just re-checked KVD's book Secrets of a Champion and it reads:
"I prefer to use snaps on jerkbaits and crankbaits to increase lure action. I've found that line cinched to the split ring can inhibit the action on most hard baits."
"On jerkbaits, the snap provides a loose connection and gives the bait a more erratic action and gets me more bites."
"On crankbaits, especially the big baits in the summer time, I like to reel them down into the cover so they ricochet and suspend momentarily. The loose connection with the snap-just as it does with a jerkbait-gives it a little more action."
He writes he uses a Berkley Cross-Lock snap in #3 size. It's a 75# snap.
As far as removing the split ring, he writes:
"Don't remove the split ring; hook the snap to the split ring or you won't achieve the same action."
QuoteMe personally, I use snaps but remove the split rings but I just re-checked KVD's book Secrets of a Champion and it reads:"I prefer to use snaps on jerkbaits and crankbaits to increase lure action. I've found that line cinched to the split ring can inhibit the action on most hard baits."
"On jerkbaits, the snap provides a loose connection and gives the bait a more erratic action and gets me more bites."
"On crankbaits, especially the big baits in the summer time, I like to reel them down into the cover so they ricochet and suspend momentarily. The loose connection with the snap-just as it does with a jerkbait-gives it a little more action."
He writes he uses a Berkley Cross-Lock snap in #3 size. It's a 75# snap.
As far as removing the split ring, he writes:
"Don't remove the split ring; hook the snap to the split ring or you won't achieve the same action."
I see, good to know. so he is using the snap on the split ring to impart an action that was not there when the bait was engineered. hence "I prefer to use snaps on jerkbaits and crankbaits to increase lure action. I've found that line cinched to the split ring can inhibit the action on most hard baits."
but if one were to remove the split ring and just used a snap it would have the same action as the split ring. Thanks
Quotesnap = for ease of changing lures
swivel = to help free up the motion of the lure
Swivels are to prevent line twist.
Too much hardware connected to the crank will end up reducing/dulling it's action.
I was just looking at those crosslocks at TW. Has anyone tried those Titanium smartlinks? Seemed to be a good idea.
Quote"I prefer to use snaps on jerkbaits and crankbaits to increase lure action. I've found that line cinched to the split ring can inhibit the action on most hard baits."
Obviously KVD does not tie a loopknot. A loopknot or a duoclock will produce the same result. Advantage to snap is not having to retie ( no big deal) and having your leader last longer as it does not shorten with each new lure. Don't know if he fishes with a leader or not.