When flipping or pitching plastics do you peg your bullet weights or not?
If you do what are you pegging with?
Or not
If you're going to peg, just invest in some Florida rig weights. They have a screw spring built in.
I peg most of the time. I fish very heavy timber and find I get hung up less with the weight pegged.
Peg always.
Bullet Weight T-Stops.
I always peg, with these;
http://www.***.com/Danielson_Rubber_Bobber_Stops_10pk/descpage-DANBOBR.html
On 7/12/2011 at 11:46 PM, .ghoti. said:I always peg, with these;
http://www.***.com/Danielson_Rubber_Bobber_Stops_10pk/descpage-DANBOBR.html
Yup I use these too. They work great. Eagle Claw sell the same thing at Dick's for around $1.50. I find that I get a lot less false bites when using them.
I peg and still use toothpicks.............Al
On 7/13/2011 at 12:35 AM, Al Wolbach said:I peg and still use toothpicks.............Al
I've gone back to them. They still work the best, and contrary to what many believe, they do not nick the line. Heck, I peg beads on 4# fluoro for double digit steelheads in winter. A puny bass on 20# fluoro isn't going to break the line.
On 7/13/2011 at 12:35 AM, Al Wolbach said:I peg and still use toothpicks.............Al
Yep. Old school, but it still works.
tom
Rubber bobber stops for me.
I always have the opition of moving it up the line if I don't want it pegged for that particular cast.
On 7/13/2011 at 1:35 AM, JoePhish said:Rubber bobber stops for me.
I always have the opition of moving it up the line if I don't want it pegged for that particular cast.
Ditto that and if I'm gonna tie a jig on I slide it up tie the jig then slide it back down so it doesn't hit the guides iv got the same peg I started the season out with hundreds of fish and lures later.
bobber stoppers for $1
I peg whenever I'm pitching to cover like cane, bullrush, heavy weeds, timber.
I don't peg my worms and other things that will be going to minimal cover
Pegged
Any time the bait has to penetrate the cover the weight is pegged. I insert a section of dried spagetti noodle in the angle hair pasta size so when it absorbs water it expands, is soft and won't nick my line. Just kidding. Bobber stops for me too.
Whenever we hear the name “Texas-rig”, we tend to picture a loose hook and a loose bullet sinker.
But in that scenario, the fisherman maintains positive contact with the bullet sinker,
but indirect contact with his lure. While the sinker may be on the bottom,
the trailer could be 3 feet above bottom, but there's nothing to report their separation.
As for pegging with a toothpick, that's just a primitive fix in my opinion. .
Although a separate hook and weight is the most popular version of a "T-rig", it's not the version I normally use.
In the natural lakes of Florida, the lure spends the bulk of its time in vegetation.
For this reason, I like to rig the plastic trailer on a Z-bend jighead instead of a loose hook.
This permanently joins the hook with the weight, but is nonetheless a Texas-rigged soft-plastic.
The T-rig was originally referred to as a "self-weedless" rig, distinguishing it from a lure with a weedguard.
Since the sinker and trailer never part company, “pegging” is never necessary,
and wherever the jighead goes, so goes the lure.
Roger
I normally don’t disagree with ya Roger but have ya seen a Texas Rig underwater? That infamous separation we have all come to believe in aint there; when it is its inches not feet.
We recently had a poll here where everyone listed their preferred bullet weight size & I believe the size was ¼ oz or less. A ¼ bullet weight weighs about the same as a plastic whatever with a hook inserted, as the Texas rig falls through the water column the angle from the rod tip to the entry point creates enough pressure to hold the weight & lure close together.
Even when worked up & over a limb the separation aint there because the average angler fishes the Texas rig so fast it barely has time to settle to the bottom after being hopped.
I had friend who is a Physics professor (an avid angler) at McNeese State University run a computer program in which he put in the following statics.
Height from the deck of my boat to the surface of the water
Height of the angler (me @ 6’)
Height of the tip of my 6’ 10” rod when held @ the 10:30 position
Angle of the line from the rod tip to the surface of the water on a 30’ cast
Weight of the bullet sinker ¼ oz
Weight of a Gene Larew 7 ½” Salty Ring Worm
Weight of a Mustad 3/0 Denny Brauer straight shank flipping hook
Depth of the water 12-15’
Factored in the resistance of the friction caused by the line through the bullet weight (don’t know how he got this) on free fall (no tension on the line).
Factored in the resistance of water on the Texas rig as it falls through the water column
After running the simulation dozens of times the greatest length of separation was 13” on the initial drop, once the rod tip was lifted the first time that distance closed to zero.
Pegged in heavy cover, unpegged every where else.
Get some of these Sinker Stops:
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_44440____SearchResults
On 7/13/2011 at 4:45 PM, Catt said:I normally don’t disagree with ya Roger but have ya seen a Texas Rig underwater? That infamous separation we have all come to believe in aint there; when it is its inches not feet.
It's not the difference between 13 inches and 1 yd, it's the difference between pegging and not pegging (as per topic).
My post was meant to enlighten those who may not realize that T-rigging is possible with a jighead
and doesn't require a loose hook. The upshot is twofold: 1) Permanent union between hook & weight 2) Never a need to peg
Roger
I use toothpicks to peg every bullet weight, unless I'm using it on a carolina rig. I'd like to thank this forum for that trick btw. I've noticed that not pegging your weight will cause it to slide down the line on the fall and let your plastic fall almost as if it's weightless. I have no doubt there is a time and place for this, but I usually control the rate of fall with the weight and hook size.
On 7/13/2011 at 6:21 PM, Catt said:I had friend who is a Physics professor (an avid angler) at McNeese State University run a computer program in which he put in the following statics.
Height from the deck of my boat to the surface of the water
Height of the angler (me @ 6’)
Height of the tip of my 6’ 10” rod when held @ the 10:30 position
Angle of the line from the rod tip to the surface of the water on a 30’ cast
Weight of the bullet sinker ¼ oz
Weight of a Gene Larew 7 ½” Salty Ring Worm
Weight of a Mustad 3/0 Denny Brauer straight shank flipping hook
Depth of the water 12-15’
Factored in the resistance of the friction caused by the line through the bullet weight (don’t know how he got this) on free fall (no tension on the line).
Factored in the resistance of water on the Texas rig as it falls through the water column
After running the simulation dozens of times the greatest length of separation was 13” on the initial drop, once the rod tip was lifted the first time that distance closed to zero.
That does not take into account subsequent drops of the rod tip. It also doesn't factor in letting the bait fall on slack line.
Yes Roger I agree it’s not the difference between 13 inches and 1 yd; it's the difference between pegging and not pegging (as per topic). But the reasoning behind pegging is because many anglers believe the separation between the bullet weight & the lure is in feet when in fact it is not. They also believe that separation causes the line between the bullet weight & the lure to become tangled when 9 out of 10 times it is the tail or tentacles on the lure that wrap.
I also agree with using something similar to Owner’s Sled head™ eliminating the need to purchase bullet weight, whatever to peg it with, plus the time need to insert the peg.
Locked, first off one should never allow a lure to fall on slack line!
Second “Factored in the resistance of the friction caused by the line through the bullet weight (don’t know how he got this) on free fall (no tension on the line).”, that my friend means slack line.
Third, “That does not take into account subsequent drops of the rod tip”, each subsequent drop of the rod tip should not be more than a foot or two off the bottom.
always pegged. until this year, always a toothpick but the stopper is now in play.
On 7/17/2011 at 5:48 PM, Catt said:Yes Roger I agree it’s not the difference between 13 inches and 1 yd; it's the difference between pegging and not pegging (as per topic). But the reasoning behind pegging is because many anglers believe the separation between the bullet weight & the lure is in feet when in fact it is not. They also believe that separation causes the line between the bullet weight & the lure to become tangled when 9 out of 10 times it is the tail or tentacles on the lure that wrap.
I also agree with using something similar to Owner’s Sled head™ eliminating the need to purchase bullet weight, whatever to peg it with, plus the time need to insert the peg.
Locked, first off one should never allow a lure to fall on slack line!
Second “Factored in the resistance of the friction caused by the line through the bullet weight (don’t know how he got this) on free fall (no tension on the line).”, that my friend means slack line.
Third, “That does not take into account subsequent drops of the rod tip”, each subsequent drop of the rod tip should not be more than a foot or two off the bottom.
I catch about 60 percent of my bass letting my jig or t-rig fall on slack line. Also, senkos are pretty much always fished on a slack line. Slack line allows your bait to fall vertically. If there is tension on the line as it is falling, the bait will fall away from the target.
I saw magnetic bullet weights on ebay that stick to the eye of the hook.
I peg using bobber stops when fishing in wood. Less hang-ups and if hung up easier to "twang" it off.
Often will place a bobber stop above and below the sinker thereby enabling to do a quick carolina rig.