I have read a lot about power loading and how it can create a crater at the end of the ramp. I have been out in my boat 5 times now and can't think how to load without driving it on. I have been putting the trailer in far enough that when I drive the boat on I cut the motor completely about 5 yards out and glide on. This leaves me with about a foot of strap that I have to crank up.
I do not want to damage ramps or tick anyone off. My boat only weighs about 1300 lbs but I cant imagine cranking this boat up the length of the trailer.
I guess I am trying to see how some of the guys that own larger, heavier boats load them onto their trailers.
Thanks! 8-)
There is a sweet spot where you have just enough trailer in the water to ease the boat all the way forward, once you have found that spot mark it. Mine is where the back of the fenders are under but not the front.
Another big help is having a trustworthy partner
QuoteThere is a sweet spot where you have just enough trailer in the water to ease the boat all the way forward,Another big help is having a trustworthy partner
I couldn't have said it better myself. Once you find this spot you can load right up to the roller with almost no effort.
That extra foot that you crank is why people powerload. That crater holds fish too.
QuoteThat extra foot that you crank is why people powerload. That crater holds fish too.
Dude, tell me about that craters holding bass!! I recently posted a pic of my backyard outing and I pulled the hawg off the crater my Jon Boat creates when I power it onto the bank. Its about 2 foot deeper than surrounding area and I can see the bass, bluegill, and tilipia sitting in it all the time!
My sweet spot is 3/4 of my trailer fenders in the water. I still give the engine a small burst right as I come into the trailer keeps the nose up if trimmed up and gets me close to the winch. Sometimes we have really shallow ramps and I can't get the trailer back far enough without getting my truck's back tires wet, so I powerload. Having a good partner though is king!
Thanks for the responses. Usually my cousin is with me which helps a lot but occasionally I will be taking the boat out by myself.
I am going to have to cast to the crator a few times and see what I can find! ;D
The issue is compounded by low water levels. You can't drop your trailer in far enough to simply glide on because of the blowout hole. So, you have to powerload, which makes a blowout hole, and on, and on...
You should try fishing that hole when you first get to the lake if there isn't a line of people waiting on the ramp. I mean hit it before you drop the boat in, or a few minutes after someone else uses the ramp and power loads, because that gets things stirred up down there.
QuoteYou should try fishing that hole when you first get to the lake if there isn't a line of people waiting on the ramp. I mean hit it before you drop the boat in, or a few minutes after someone else uses the ramp and power loads, because that gets things stirred up down there.
i always hit the blow out hole before loading the boat. IMO fishing the spot from the water is a lot better.
I must be the odd man out because I use a long bow rope .My tracker weighs about the same maybe less.I will either beach the boat or tie up to the dock go get the trailer back down till my tow rigs back wheels are just out of the water that puts the trailer in there nice.untie the bow rope and push from the beach or pull from the dock right up on the trailer within 2 ft of the winch then winch her up tight .I do have a short walking platform on my tongue and I tow with a jeep 4x4 so ramps arent a problem.I do enjoy watching the big boys power load with their 250hp motors shooting mud / sand /gravel everywhere man that prop must be really digging in the bowl,hey isnt the water intake down by the prop ? That means all that stuff is going? But if you have a big heavy boat you sometimes dont have a choice.Thats part of the reason I downsized beside now I can get back to the really skinny water where the fish are. good luck.
txs17, dude you seriously think you aint picking up nothing while running around the lake in a days fishing?
If the ramp constructors are smart, they'll dump a bunch of large rock off the end of the concrete to prevent the blow out. The steeper the ramp, the easier it is to put it on the trailer without have to power on.
The 'sweet spot' for me is not where I can barely use power and still make it to the roller, but instead it is how far to have the bunks in the water so that the boat will line up properly. If there is just a tad too much bunk in the water, then any kind of current/wave/wind will blow my boat just enough that it doesn't sit straight when you try to pull the trailer out. On my local ramp I back the trailer in until the bunks are covered, then pull forward until fenders are a couple of inches out of the water. I can usually glide on with minimal power and be lined up just right. Sometimes I still have to winch it up the last foot or so.
SnowBass23 nailed it on the head. Dunk the trailer, get the bunks wet, then pull out a bit. The boat will slide right on now. Simple.
QuoteSnowBass23 nailed it on the head. Dunk the trailer, get the bunks wet, then pull out a bit. The boat will slide right on now. Simple.
i never thought of that.
Powerloading can wreak havoc on the ramp as well. Last year on a lake I fish quite often they rebuilt the ramp, the existing one was constructed of 12 foot long 1 foot wide by 6-8 inch thick concrete slabs that I'm guessing weigh somewhere around 1000lbs each layed parallel with the shore and side by side going down the length of the ramp. When removing them they found that the very last one had become unhooked from the chain that connected everything together and it was now laying about 20-30 feet away.
Some may think powerloading doesn't hurt things but if propwash can move a 1000lb piece of concrete 20 feet what else is it doing?
I try my best not to powerload but sometimes it is required like on a couple ramps I use that were made too short and if you back your trailer too far the wheels fall into a 3 foot deep hole caused by propwash.
Spray the carpeted bunks with a spray silicone. Then you dunk the trailer and pull back up to the sweet spot. The silicone and water don't mix very well so you get a bearing effect on the bunks. Slick as owl stuff. I can winch my 201 with no problem. Most of the lakes around here are so low that's the only way I can get loaded.
Well the water around here is still very high in all the places that I have been to so far but I feel like I am getting dialed in to where the sweet spot is on my trailer. Winching the boat up the last foot is definitely not a big deal when the water is warmer and I don't mind getting my feet wet.
Where can I pick up some silicone spray?
QuoteSpray the carpeted bunks with a spray silicone. Then you dunk the trailer and pull back up to the sweet spot. The silicone and water don't mix very well so you get a bearing effect on the bunks. Slick as owl stuff. I can winch my 201 with no problem. Most of the lakes around here are so low that's the only way I can get loaded.
That really works Lee. BUT it also makes things slick for quite some time and please keep the winch strap connected to the boat while backing down the ramp. Having a boat on the ramp without a trailer under it could ruin the day.
Txs17 you are not the only odd man . I have the same type of boat and load the same way as you. The real key to an easy load is to have a ramp with the right amount of drop in the water. Some ramps are just to shallow.
CATT , exactly my point I can run the lake the entire day and not pickup as much crap as 30 seconds of power loading . Like most people said sometimes you have no choice or as BASS CRAZY said the style or condition of the ramp is the difference..
I keep a pair of waders in the boat and just put them on when it's time to load. I jump in the water and guide the boat on then winch it the last few feet. Then again my boat is aluminum and light.
I have nothing against power loading but some the lakes I fish have tourneys and after watching 12-20 boats all power-load in under 15min cant be to healthy for the ramp.
QuoteCATT , exactly my point I can run the lake the entire day and not pickup as much crap as 30 seconds of power loading . Like most people said sometimes you have no choice or as BASS CRAZY said the style or condition of the ramp is the difference..
So you never run your boat in any water under 5' deep
catt ,sure do but unless your following another boat that stirs up the bottom it would be pretty clean water.My boat is light enough to get to real skinny water but normally under 1 to 2'of water the trolling motor is out anyway fishing.Dont know about your part of the country but here I fish mostly spring feed water thats ultra clear and about 98% clean ,about drinking water quality, thats why Hollywood loves to come to central fla to film all those under water movies all the springs and clear water and sandy bottoms makes for great pics.
Lol guys the motor manufacturers anticipate that you're going to suck stuff into your intake, the engines made to take that. Obviously not thick mud, but it'll take quite a bit, speaking from experience....
Y'all are aware of the fact that if you power load your boat the prop wash is actually a couple feet behind your boat not at the prop.