Is it ok to run this engine with the water muffs on? Should water be coming out tell tale before I fire it up? I just got this boat and want to fire it before going to the lake if possible. Shipped it here from STL so I haven't seen it run. I will post some pics of the boat once I get it back from the detailer.
You can run it with muffs on just make sure once it's started the water is coming out the pisser.
On 7/2/2014 at 8:12 AM, MXHalofan said:Is it ok to run this engine with the water muffs on? Should water be coming out tell tale before I fire it up? I just got this boat and want to fire it before going to the lake if possible. Shipped it here from STL so I haven't seen it run. I will post some pics of the boat once I get it back from the detailer.
I'm just learning about this stuff but I don't believe water should be coming out of the telltale until after you have her running for a few seconds. I think mine took like 15 seconds the first time. I believe water has to be sucked through the engine when it's running to get water thru the telltale.
I need more advice. First bass boat. It's at the detailers until Monday. I might have to clean the carbs and gas tank. Seller told me it might have bad gas in it. One year old gas. LOL Hope it's only one year old
How should I start the boat?
Muffs and water on
If the gas looks ok and not separted, should I just primer bulb the gas and oil and crank the engine? I'm just a tad nervous about starting it without having known good premix going into the engine. Is this VRO system generaly safe to start after sitting a year?
I have a pic I'll look up how to post it. Dang not a very good pic. I don't have a good one right now LOL
I would atleast drain the tank and put fresh.
Check the lines for seperation from fuel with ethanol in it. Replace with EPA lines, bulb, and a new fuel filter.
Chances are the carbs will be varnished, and gummed up, but you might get lucky
drain the tank, mix the newgas 50:1 for ten gallons till you varify the injection is working, it will smoke no biggy. put it on muffs squeeze the bulb till hard. turn the key on press in the choke and crank it till it tries to catch. immediately stop crankn and put the choke off, raise the hot start and crank again. fast start on your control is likely to push the center of the lever in and hold while moving the throttle forward. once it cranks over pull the throttle back to keep it faster than normal for twenty seconds but not screaming its guts out, then return throttle to neutral. dont take it over 3000rpm for more than a second on muffs.
ok cool. So 50 to 1 and if it smokes a lot, gotta figure the oil injection is working. I'm tempted to remove the injection now, but there's a lot of praise for this system that I read online so far
A lot of praise LOL. I went thru 4 VRO pumps, on a 1988 70hp Johnson, in 2 years, before I wised up and had the system bypassed. Best part was I sold the boat for more than I paid for it.
How hard is it to clean the carbs on this bad boy? I had one carb I cleaned on my old 82 40hp evinrude. It was easy. Had a tiny peice of plastic stuck in a passage. My boats just sitting at the detailers. Kinda wish it was here so I could get it started and be through all this. Detailer says it's taking a lot of time but coming out really good. Figured I'll read up and be ready for when it gets here
Do yourself a favor before you start working on an engine you're not familiar with. Buy a factory service manual. Worth it's weight in gold.
If it has sat for a year, you probably should spend the time and money to swap out the fuel lines and filters after draining the system. If you notice any separation, it might be a good idea to crack open the pump(s) to see if there is any build up in them as well. It could well be fine, but you never know.
My main suggestion is anyone following this post take notes on how NOT to buy a boat.
It's very obvious this boat/ motor was not test run and motor work is way to expensive to buy one of unknown condition. Had it been test run, the the seller would have been responsible for making sure it was in good, running condition. Now, you are pretty much SOL with any problems you may have. If the seller said he would fix any problems you, good luck on that one.
Just having the carbs cleaned and other problems that may be with the fuel lines can run $300-$500. Add a new water pump and you are close to $800, and that's just taking care of very likely problems. That's nothing to do with other problems it may have, up to the motor itself being bad.
I wish you the best and hope it turns out well for you, but being new to the world of boats and motors, you have set yourself up for possibly a very bad experience.
Yep. I still haven't had a chance to work on the boat. Still at my detailers. Wish I'd started it before going to get it cleaned up. Seller told me boat was lake ready and just had carbs cleaned, new power pack and water pump and seals. Then after I send him the money, he tells me it's been a year since the work was done and boat was ran once after the work. And I should get new gas LOL I got a copy of the service work done. This seller was a weasel IMO I just couldn't find a boat I wanted locally or within shipping distance and when this one appeared for reasonable money I jumped on it.
That said. People are jelous. I'm amazed at how many people are telling me to replace the gas or that year old gas is automatically bad. Not just on here but from reading on the net. I have dozens of gas powered equipment and have been using them for 14 years. Never once have I had gas go bad within a year. I've had gas last four years in one peice of equipment and had it start first pull. LOL The seller was ticked he was selling this boat. I think he thought it was worth much more. If he'd taken care of it, it would have been. Ambivalence really showed up during this deal. I just hope the engine checks out. My detailer says it's coming out better than he thought it would LOL
Condensation dont affect Lawn mowers, Tillers, and other 2 strokes quite like a boat.
I did have bad gas in mine when I bought it. Only affect it had was start ups. Every time was like a cold start. Fresh gas, additives fixed it.
With that said, I would still replace the gas, and lines to new EPA lines. Draining the gas, and replacing lets you know how old it is, what additives are in it, and if its PURE gas and not an Ethanol Blend.
Wow, gas don't go bad, especially after only sitting for a"Year".
I beg to differ with you. I've been turning wrenches for over 50 years on almost every kind of motor there is and I won't run gas that's several months old.
I will say, you have some expensive lessons to learn about gasoline and outboard motors.
Yea, well, here's the first lesson for me. gas is bad LOL
Chalk it up to a lesson learned and get on to fixing it. I'm sure you'll have it up and running in no time.
also get some stuff called sea foam, put about 1/6th of the bottle in the gas. this will help to clear any varnish that may be present
Yea, chilling tonight. Long work days around here. Gonna pull the gas tank and flush it, put on a new fuel filter and give it a try.
Here's another shot of the boat. We've had a cool and rainy summer so I bet the fishing is good. Gonna try to get away to Truman or Pom for a day trip or maybe find a nice condo for the night pretty soon.
I need a cover and got a quote for $975 for a custom cover. Thinking the $150 Javelin specific one on ebay will do for now. Rather spend the money on a couple nice weekends in a condo at the lake LOL Anyone have a good idea on covers please post. Going to buy one soon
Got the gas tank rinsed with some clean gas. Thinking this might be why it wouldn't prime. The suction tube into the tank was weazing when I'd pump the primer bulb. This little barb has a stopper in it. (connects suction tube to fuel line) It won't pull smooth at all by mouth so I'm wondering if that's normal or if this is bad? sure seems like excess pressure is needed and then it kinda stutters. Figured if this went bad it'd be the anti function that would fail. wonder if there's some buildup in there.
Well, I got it to fire and sputter a little. Gas was seeping out the bowl area on the middle carb. Gonna let it sit for a while and try again. Is there a fast idle on this setup? I couldn't find one.
Got 90-95 compression on all cylinders. And water was coming out the tell tale while it was sputtering. Good news for me.
If I need to pull the carbs and blow them out, do I need to address the fuel pump? Also this choke unit (?) with the purple wire and small red lever... is this a fuel shutoff? Red lever was closed and gas started coming out the carb bowl right after I turned it open and primed LOL Just trying to get familiar with this outboard.
Got her running. Carbs were full of oil. Think the seller was ticked and cranked way too much with the fuel filter plugged. Probably a quart between the three carbs and the 8 oz in the air box LOL Thanks for the help. Hope she runs out good
That fitting you have in your hand is the antisiphon valve. They are notorious for causing fuel delivery problems and one of the first things I do is take them out and replace it with a barb fitting. Unless you fish costal waters and subject to USCG inspections they are not needed. They are a coast guard requirement, the idea is if you have an engine fire, the gas can't drain back into the tank and pull the fire with it.
You can keep on wishing, but that gas that don't go bad probably has your whole fuel system screwed up. The carbs need to come off and cleaned, all the line flushed, and hope the fuel pump survived because you really don't want to take it apart, and even a new, none CRO (that's not a typo, since about 1998 they are CRO instead of VRO)
DO NOT take it to the lake and try to run it if it's not running right. That's the best way there is to blow an engine. A dirty carb can lean a cylinder and melt a piston in a heartbeat. Then you and your mechanic can blame it on the VRO.
Like I said, you have some expensive lessons to learn about your thinking gas don't go bad. Granted, tank life might be a little longer for you because you have shorter, milder summers than we have down south, but, I still would not run any gas that's several months old.
thanks for the info. Kinda strange though. I had a guy quote me $1k today to clean my carbs and checkout the fuel system LOL. He didnt' even sound friendly or ask for any info about the boat. Just a CL ad trying to sound like a pro and close by my house, so I called him.
Took me two hours doing baby steps to pull the carbs and clean them out, and reinstall and fire up the engine. Fired second crank and idled as smooth as any. There's a bunch of hacks out there. Easy to spot them when they can't pay attention very well. And that unecessary anti siphon valve can cause a blown hose to pump your gas tank into your bilge. Pretty stupid to write on a forum that they aren't important. Hope you pay better attention in your next fifty years breaking machines.
Wow! So you think I'm a hack.
Talk about being ungrateful, from someone who very obviously doesn't know their a** from a whole in the ground. I am a hellava long way from being the hack you just called me, you take the cake sport.
You don't even have a clue how the fuel system works with that stupid statement you made about the anti-siphon valve.
With that, I'm done, Trust me, you will never get another response from me, and with that attitude, probably not many others.
On 7/13/2014 at 8:26 PM, Way2slow said:Wow! So you think I'm a hack.
Talk about being ungrateful, from someone who very obviously doesn't know their a** from a whole in the ground. I am a hellava long way from being the hack you just called me, you take the cake sport.
You don't even have a clue how the fuel system works with that stupid statement you made about the anti-siphon valve.
With that, I'm done, Trust me, you will never get another response from me, and with that attitude, probably not many others.
I appreciate the knowledge you bring to BR Way2slow. Don't let this kid trying to prove he didn't make a bad decision discourage you.
Well put slonezp.
Apparently one knows all, except that gas goes bad.
New boat owner, already a Master Tech.
On 7/4/2014 at 11:44 PM, slonezp said:A lot of praise LOL. I went thru 4 VRO pumps, on a 1988 70hp Johnson, in 2 years, before I wised up and had the system bypassed. Best part was I sold the boat for more than I paid for it.
Just do it, bypass the pump before it fails and the motor locks up. Ask me how I know.