Experienced anglers, what would you do? **UPDATE** 2024
jb_adams reply :
**UPDATE**
See recent posts below
Most of you may have already seen my previous post in the Central Bass Fishing Forum (linked below)
http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1148302213
This question is more of a generalized question and not so specific to one lake or location. To describe my scenario, I have listed the following lake conditions:
- heavily pressured lake
- post spawn months when the bite is tougher
- post spawn record low water level at 14ft. below normal, now 7ft. below normal and water is now stained (greenish brown)
- fish bite really close to what game and fish forcast predicts based on moon patterns
- when fish are biting, it's usually on what I assume to be small bait fish schooling or insects on topwater
- I do not have a depth finder, or large bass boat to locate any large drops or undewater terrain
- I am limited to the smaller coves due to the size and nature of my boat (12ft. Jon boat, no motor)
Am I totally screwed in this scenario??
Just some extra information here. I have tried many bait presentations when topwater biting is good. I've tried a Super Spook Jr., buzzbaits, torpedos, Heddon mini popper, hula poppers trailed with mini poppers for smaller fish, flukes, spinnerbaits, crankbaits, jigs, senkos, dropshot, shaky head, wacky rig, t-rig, c-rig, and now chatterbait. I've tried all plastics in watermelon or pumpkin, black & red, black & blue, white & red, and many others.
I am starting to think that the main kink in my fishing is the lack of depth finder and trolling motor. I have learned many things since joining Bassresource.com and will continue to learn more. I still consider myself an amatueur but I am not a total newbie to the sport. With the scenario above, the baits listed that I have tried, I have only caught 3 bass this year since April. Pathetic yes!
With the exceptions of barametric pressure, water temperature, color, etc., what is my flaw in fishing?? It's hard to tell without knowing specifics but if you can take your best shot, I'm all ears. I mean I'm not even catching the dinks!! :-[
Please offer some advice! 
Hookemdown. reply :
Hey fellow arkansan, are you fishing a lake(if so name it) or pond river ect. Also It's been pretty hot recently so the fish are deeper. Most are suspended anywhere from 8-20 feet in the day here. Topwater bite is o.k. in the cooler windy mornings. I've thrown a DD22 (Deep diving Crank) recently on main points and had some success. hope this helps
If you are fishing beaver, you catch some just be patient
If nothing else works always go back to the slow working worms, grubs, ect.
tallydude reply :
I don't know about the rest of these guys, but I have one particular tactic that I fall back on when nothing else seems to work. For me this is a good fish finding tool as well.
I use a 3" curly tail grub (usually white but you may need to play with that) attached to a spinnerblade. I cast out as far as I can and work it up and down slowly. I let the bait fall all the way to the bottom and then pump the rod back up, bringing it to near surface. Once there, I let it fall again, reeling in as it does so. Like I said, I do this slowly and allow the blade to do its work. I usually get hit just as the grub begins its descent.
I like the smaller size as it is not too big for some of the lesser fish to take and it seems to be easy picking for some of the larger, more lethargic bass.
I hope this helps,
Jason
jb_adams reply :
QuoteI don't know about the rest of these guys, but I have one particular tactic that I fall back on when nothing else seems to work. For me this is a good fish finding tool as well.I use a 3" curly tail grub (usually white but you may need to play with that) attached to a spinnerblade. I cast out as far as I can and work it up and down slowly. I let the bait fall all the way to the bottom and then pump the rod back up, bringing it to near surface. Once there, I let it fall again, reeling in as it does so. Like I said, I do this slowly and allow the blade to do its work. I usually get hit just as the grub begins its descent.
I like the smaller size as it is not too big for some of the lesser fish to take and it seems to be easy picking for some of the larger, more lethargic bass.
I hope this helps,
Jason
That's funny, I have done the same thing and even that's not working for me anymore. I have tried all sizes of baits from beetle spins to modified spinnerbaits, to road runner jigheads.
Your name is Jason too! Great minds think alike! Ha ha! 
By the way, yes it is Beaver Lake.
jb_adams reply :
So do you agree that a good boat with a depth/fish finder would help me produce more strikes and fish?
As of now, the only way I can locate fish is instinct, topwater action, and using the anchor drop to determine depth. I try to find structure, cover, possible underwater creek beds, and things that everyone else looks for. I just can't tell for sure if it's there.
Gatorbassman reply :
From what I see your problem is not what you are useing. Your issue is finding the fish without a depth finder. That is not as big of a deal as you would think. You can learn alot about what's under you by looking at the shore. Look at the bank, is it a steep bank or a flat bank. If it is steeper than the one directly accross from it then the channel or the creek runs closer to the steep side.
Look closer, is there a bend in the bank if so the creek channel probably bends that direction under the water.
Find a point. Is it a steep point or does it gradually get deeper.
Is there a pile of rocks entering the water. Chances are that if this is a natural outcropping of rocks there will be another one deeper.
Now take out a C-Rig and put on a 3/8oz sinker. Get your boat into shallow water and put your rod down in the water and find a 6 foot depth. Drop your C-rig in and see how long it takes to reach the bottom.
Now that you know your rate of fall. Go fish deep water. Pull up to the shallow part of a point and cast to deep water. Slowly work it in. Fan-cast the entire point and both sides before moving your boat. Once you have done that move your boat farther out on that point and fish the deeper part of it. All this time counting the amount of time it takes for your rig to reach the bottom. When you start to get bites you will know how deep the fish are holding and you will be able to quickly locate other fish in the area. And adjust your presentation accordingly. You may find them as deep as 30 or 40 ft if it is a deep lake.
Do the same thing with the creek channel and banks along the creek. You will be suprised how many brush piles and structure you find with that C-Rig.
Just for a side not. I don't fish out of a big bass boat. I have a 14ft jon boat. I fished from the bank and a 10ft jon boat for 15+ years so I have been there and I know you can catch fish without all that fancy stuff.
Sooner Dead reply :
All good tips above, but I will let you in on one that I have found while trying to locate those summer fishes... a 1/4 stick of dynamite - texas rigged - really can make those fish darn near jump into your boat ;D
--Sooner Dead
cart7t reply :
Beaver is going to be tough period. Like Tablerock, it's sister lake, it's a finesse style lake where you're often fishing extremely deep with small finesse type baits. You can get buy without a depthfinder but a trolling motor is a must. I'd suggest doing whatever you can to get one ASAP.
senile1 reply :
Go with Fluke's and Cart's suggestions and, in addition, study a map of Beaver Lake intently. The map will let you know that creek channels, underwater points, stumps, etc. are in a general vicinity. Then the c-rig will help you pinpoint this stuff. From the map, pick out a small section of the lake that appears to have the structure you are seeking and try to learn that section with the c-rig. And yes, this will take some time. You may even want to use a day just to search out an area with the c-rig and do nothing else. Who knows, you may get lucky and catch some fish while you're doing this.
jb_adams reply :
Very good suggestions! Since I still consider myself a beginner, I will definately get a map and study the terrain. I have heard this before but I just keep trying to catch fish with baits instead of finding the fish. I know the fish are there because you can see the top water action. Lots of action too! That's what makes it so frustrating. There is some certain type of shad that they are feeding on so my next attempt will be with live bait (shad and a bobber).
I'll locate one of the Beaver Lake maps and give the terrain C-rig a shot. Thanks guys!
By the way, I heard that this time of year requires jig fishing on Beaver. Anyone know if that's true? By jig fishing I am assuming they mean jigs like the Bitsy Bug and other finesse jigs, right?
Garnet reply :
Flukmaster no's.......... I would started with a marker bouy and a reasoanably heavy jig. It's called the countdown method 1 mississipi 2 miss..... thats boring I hume a good tune and look for difference. To this day I no depth change without looking at the finder. When you find a depth change you need to mark the spot Look straight at shore and pick a object then to your left or right. Next time out you have a starting spot for now throw a marker and follow the depth change keep working until you have a good mental pic of the area. Keep looking at the relationship to your marker.
When you contact fish mark the spot visaully. Now you can try all the different presentations. After some time you will stop using markers (they attract attention) and just work your way to fish.
Garnet
jb_adams reply :
So it sounds like there is some definate benifits to knowing the terrain.
I guess a simple mind thinks that topwater action will still get a bite on top water baits or baits thrown into the area of repeated topwater action. I know I have watched the same fish hit 3-5 times in a 10ft. radius before. I thow a few baits his way, nothing. Same with structure. I have seen fish follow my baits and then see me because the water was so clear, then they would spook and look at me like "Almost had me" and then slowly swim away..... :'(
I'll give this a try next time out. Thanks again guys! It's nice to know you can get this kind of information for free!! ;D Or until you guys start charging me!
guest reply :
Nothing can beat a c-rig for "reading" the bottom when you don't have a depth finder. Use as heavy a weight as is necessary to get the feel.
Also consider a "fishing buddy" portable depthfinder. They sell them at BPS for $100-$250 or so. I have the 1100 with the sideview. It runs on D batteries, weighs only about 6 lbs and is very to use and read. I don't use mine much anymore but it is very easy, and I fish from a 14' canoe.
Gatorbassman reply :
That fish that is breaking the serface may not be a bass. It could be a carp or a gar. They break the serface much more than a bass does. As time goes by you will be able to tell the difference by what it sounds like. I go by a simple rule.
"If it is just one splash I ignore it. If it is two or more right in a row I take notice and make a cast."
jb_adams reply :
Very good tip!! ;D
My uncle taught me the difference between a squirrel running in the woods and a deer running in the woods so I know what you're talking about. I see small hits and usually account them to small panfish, carp, and catfhish. The larger splashes where you see the fish completely jump out of the water are bass to me. When I can see a white belly, green and black back, that's a bass.
I haven't thought of the multiple hits being bass. I usually thought that was a fish that was not catching what it was striking at. That makes sense though. Thanks!
Well, I tied on a C-rig and plan on leaving it one of my rods. Until I can afford a boat of my own, it will be my depth finder. The Jon boat I have is borrowed from a friend. He was nice enough to let me use it this summer. I close on my first house this July so after that, hopefully next season will see at least a boat with a motor and trailer! ;D
guest reply :
Gar mostly roll the surface sometimes making a plop sound, while bass make a sharper splashing noise. If I were to go up there under those water conditions I'd work a Boy Howdie around the mouth of coves. There's just one effective way to fish that bait. That's what's working for me here on Lake Ouachita, also a deep normally clear lake. Anytime there's a few feet of clarity that bait works well in open water even when bass are not feeding at the surface. They will come up to investigate it. It's heavy enough to cast it far enough the bass won't see you. Our bass are currently suspended 22 feet down over creek channels, well away from the shoreline, intercepting shad schools that are coming and going along the channels.
Having a sonar is vital for me, but I remember doing fine without one for many years. I also know lots of guys that have had one for years and still can't locate good fishing with it. They got of to a bad start and are burned on trying to learn even with offers of lessons. If any use at all that really helps most it's eliminating unproductive water this time of year, focusing on bottom depths where bass are holding. In our case everyone knows by now the bass are at 22 feet. The sonar helps save tons of time locating where water drops off deeper. When the bass drop to 30 feet it'll help to find humps and ridges at 30 feet. Then when the thermocline develops to drive bass higher we'll have to track that depth. Come winter we locate bass 30-60 feet deep here, using spoons and blade baits vertically jigged on top of them. I wouldn't consider trying that in winter without pin pointing with a good sonar. The methods of locating depth using baits described already are good, but those take up a lot of time sorting out depths. I'd really consider buying the best quality sonar you can to go on that boat, something you'd want to move to a bass boat someday.
Jim
BD reply :
My parents hired a guide on beaver last week. They were slaying them in the creek channels out in the lake. I have never been on Beaver, but the guide had the boat in 60 ft waters, casting to 19-20. that's a huge drop-off, so try humps too.
jb_adams reply :
QuoteGar mostly roll the surface sometimes making a plop sound, while bass make a sharper splashing noise. If I were to go up there under those water conditions I'd work a Boy Howdie around the mouth of coves. There's just one effective way to fish that bait. That's what's working for me here on Lake Ouachita, also a deep normally clear lake. Anytime there's a few feet of clarity that bait works well in open water even when bass are not feeding at the surface. They will come up to investigate it. It's heavy enough to cast it far enough the bass won't see you. Our bass are currently suspended 22 feet down over creek channels, well away from the shoreline, intercepting shad schools that are coming and going along the channels.Having a sonar is vital for me, but I remember doing fine without one for many years. I also know lots of guys that have had one for years and still can't locate good fishing with it. They got of to a bad start and are burned on trying to learn even with offers of lessons. If any use at all that really helps most it's eliminating unproductive water this time of year, focusing on bottom depths where bass are holding. In our case everyone knows by now the bass are at 22 feet. The sonar helps save tons of time locating where water drops off deeper. When the bass drop to 30 feet it'll help to find humps and ridges at 30 feet. Then when the thermocline develops to drive bass higher we'll have to track that depth. Come winter we locate bass 30-60 feet deep here, using spoons and blade baits vertically jigged on top of them. I wouldn't consider trying that in winter without pin pointing with a good sonar. The methods of locating depth using baits described already are good, but those take up a lot of time sorting out depths. I'd really consider buying the best quality sonar you can to go on that boat, something you'd want to move to a bass boat someday.
Jim
I've been on Lake Ouachita before. BIG LAKE! ;D There is some pretty good fishing there too if you know what you're doing from what I hear. My Father-in-law lives in that area and he gave up on that lake. I think he was more into catfish though.
Thanks for the tips. I think you're right about the drops and suspended fish. I have heard that from a few locals. That just makes it harder for me being in a non-motored jon boat. I get nervous being out in deeper water without a motor and all of the skiers and other "yahoos" running up and down the lake. If I had a boat with a motor, I'd feel a little more comfortable because I could get out in the open easier and leave easier. As of now, it's just me paddling. The back coves don't bother me. The wind is what kills me. I fight the wind on the open lake paddling.
Again, I'm so desparate for a boat that this one is barrowed. If it were mine, I'd be saving for a trolling motor, depth finder and trailer. Since it's borrowed, I hope to get a boat next year. In the meantime, the "SS Jon Boat" will keep me on the waters and trying to gain more experience which is where it all counts. If you get good adivice, then you can apply it towards your time on the water and get the experience.
Thanks again guys! I feel much better! ;D
Garnet reply :
jb this is the best thing to happen to your fishing. A fast boat,great electronic,cool rods and reels lots of baits are just cake. You work hard at finding fish without this cake and that will last a lifetime. everything you learn in the coves and backwater are just little lakes when you get out on the big water the only differents is you see further and when you get to the right spot it's just that spot in a cove. What Luck.
Garnet
Ben reply :
When bass are breaking the water, it's can hard to tell them from hybrids and stippers if you have those in your lake. Bass will school up and starting about 30 minutes after daylight for as much as a couple of hours they will push schools of shade to the surface where numbers of them will tear the water up for about 15 - 30 seconds. The short lenght of time they stay up like that is a good indication they are bass and not other fish. 10 - 15 minutes later they will do the same thing, maybe 100 - 200 yards from where they were before and sometimes there may be several schools working the area. Once you learn how to catch them, get good at figuring where they might come up again, have a very fast TM, and a setup you can make extremely long cast, you can have some of the best fun in your bass fishing life. During this time of the year, I always keep a 1/4 oz jig head with a white fluke (not the super fluke) tied on a 7' Medium action rod with a wide spook reel I can cast a long distance, ready and sitting on the deck. Then I also keep a 4" weighted popping cork with a fluke on a 3' or so leader, no jig head, or a Pop N Spot tied on a 7' MH rod, This I can cast a country mile. I know areas on my lake they are very subject to come up and I quit fishing just to go and check these area's out about a 1/2 hour after day light. I'm talking catching numbers of bass as big as three - four pounds at times just as fast as you can get them in the boat. The schools always have similar size bass, if your'e catching 12 - 13" bass, that's what they all will be in that school. If they are large bass, they will all be large bass.
guest reply :
JB, I learned to bass fish on Lake Ouachita using a cane pole to push a huge heavy home-made wood flatbottom boat around in it until I managed to get into a 12 foot vee bottom with no motor. I sat on the bow quietly and constantly skulling with one arm while casting with the other. While the bait was flying I put the 3 foot paddle down and tended to the bait. It was nothing to cover 5 miles including big open bays and in some stiff wind. Sometimes I had to wait until dark to manage going back up what was upwind during the day, the wind finally dying down. From that exercise there wasn't a man around that lake that could beat me arm wrestling. I caught enough bass on average to supply 50-75 pounds of bass fillets a week, always a stringer full of fish hanging over the side, each weekend treating my family and all their friends coming to the family houseboat we all pitched in and built (still afloat at Mt. Harbor, now permanently moored just for a place to lay around in). I finally won a small tournament out of that boat, beating guys with what they called bass boats with POWERFUL 10-15 HP Evinrudes, getting me a down payment on a gas trolling motor. I found that thing to be a lot of trouble, in my way, and making way too much noise so used it mostly to return to camp. I won a few more checks and managed a 10 HP Evinrude, paid off the gas troller, and bought my first real bassing fiberglass rod & reel, retiring the old steel rod. It took 10 years to go from that dingy to a Ouachita brand bass boat with a 40 HP outboard, one battery, and an electric trolling motor. If I were you I'd put in close to woody coves where recreational boaters tend to avoid potential disaster. If a deep channel runs through the submerged forest you'll be in bass waters all summer with little company. Take a tarp and a blanket, a can of soup, a few bottles of water, skeeter repellant, and be prepared to spend the night if the wind is too much. Or figure on paddling back at night. It worked in the 60's and works today. I honestly believe catching bass should be better not using motors to get around. You would find a 10 foot 2" thick cane pole on my boat on days I plan to fish matted hydrilla this summer when it tops out. I stop using the electric troller. Back then I tended to work every piece of lake much more thoroughly, having investment of much labor getting there. I was never in a hurry to jump somewhere else since I couldn't just pop to the next point. I watched countless fine bass boats fish by not catching a thing, while I hooked bass constantly. So make the most of what you have. I learned to master bassing that way and you will gain experience no man can teach you. Just get out there and do it.
Jim
jb_adams reply :
Well dangit!! Now I don't have an excuse other than plain ignorance!!
Thanks for sharing the advice. I guess I am going to have to get out in a few new coves and work a little harder. I have noticed my paddling skills increased a lot lately! ;D
So in summary, everyone says to learn to find the fish by knowing the terrain, and then decide on bait presentations based on time of year, water color, depth, temp., weather conditions, moon positioning, how I hokey pokey, if I comb my hair from left to right or right to left, etc.
Seriously, I see that I have a ton to learn. I'd love to have a 10th of what you guys know. Thank you very much to all that have posted to this thread. I appreciate the advice very much!
jb_adams reply :
FYI....
I got in a fight with the bait monkey and told him to go away because he was a little lier. He's mad at me now and not speaking to me.
Since I have a tackle box FULL of new baits, I need to learn how to master them!
Ben reply :
A box full of new baits!! Uh oh,,,, I see a major problem coming on right off the bat. Too many lures that you don't know how/when/where to fish are only going to make you catch fewer bass. I would strongly recommend anyone trying to learn to catch bass to limit their lure selection. Learn to use two or three for the time of year you are fishing. Learn how, when, and where to consistantly catch fish on those, then add one or two more. Plastics are one of the staples, but learning them can be one of the toughest. For my first three years of bass fishing, my tackle box was a little metal pocket pack that had red, black and purple 6" Creme worns, some hooks and some weights. That was all I fished with and got dang good at finding and catching bass with them under all conditions and times of the year. One reason was that was all I could afford when I was a kid. When I finally did break down and bought my first lure, it was a Heddon Sonic, then I was scared to use it for fear I might loose it.
guest reply :
Don't "paddle" your boat, but "skull" it so you'll last longer and be quieter. You might have nice seats, but get a cushion and sit on the bow. Cradle a short paddle, no longer than 3 feet, my preference one sawed off to 26" and the end sanded smooth. I sanded the handle where I gripped it to a smaller diameter that was easy to grip. You might prefer tucking the handle end behind shoulder blade, but I found a longer paddle more in the way when laying it down to fish. With the handle end tucked behind elbow, hand held palm to the paddle, stroke the water gently with continuous 1 foot wide side to side figure 8s without removing paddle from the water. Pull the bow forward by sweeping the paddle towards you. Keep boat payload as light as possible, carrying only essentials. If you tire quickly you are working the paddle too hard. Gentle strokes will work fine with no splashing that can spook fish.
Jim
jb_adams reply :
UPDATE! ;D
I tried using a C-rig and within the second cast I felt a little bite. The next cast, same thing and I must have missed the hookset. The worm stayed rigged on the hook both times. The third cast I landed a decent largemouth!! Crystal clear water up to 8ft deep and a watermelon candy trick worm C-rigged landed a fish within 10 mins. Thanks again to everyone who posted and for all the help. I just wanted to pass along the news.
It felt great to actually catch a fish using the c-rig. I know it's the most fundamental and basic presentation but it has never worked for me until now. I have to say that all it took was one fish for me and now I want to try it all the time. I downsized my sinker weight to a 3/8oz. swivel weight and that has helped me keep from snagging rocks and other things. Like I said, I have lost more c-rigs than caught fish so I just gave up on them. Too much not tying to just loose it within 5 casts.
On paddling:
I have tried sculling before but I gave up too quickly. I'll give it a shot again sometime though. I usually try to paddle very quietly anyway and become extra quiet with no splashes as I get close to the spot I'm headed to. I like to coast in slowly. I would bet my payload is too heavy too. I tend to be over prepared because I hate doing anything and not having tools or supplies to work with when I need it. Just a personal issue.
kms399 reply :
have you looked into trolling motors and depthfinders? they are getting cheaper. i would look into a 30# thrust endura motor by minnkota they sell for $109 and you can get a depth finder for pretty cheap as well. i use an eagle fishmark 320. 1500 watts of power 320 by 320 pixels. a d**n fine unit for $160. you can find them cheaper as well. if you give blood a few times you will be set up in no time ;D
IndianaKid reply :
Something that might help learn depths and bottom contours along with the c-rig is to make a manual depth finder or sorts.
Use some old mono on its spool, or go to Wally World and buy one of the smallest size spools of line (100 yds i think) in 17 or 20 lb. and then find something to attach to the end of it that weighs several ounces, a pyramid weight works well, but that costs money. Then mark with a sharpie every five feet on the line with a spot of the sharpie and do it for however deep you think your deepest water may be...30ft...40ft...50ft whatever you think you may need, then once on the water you can let it out while going out from a bank to find the drops and ledges and humps and other random bottomw structure.
I was told about this from an old-timer on Kentucky Lake who has pictures of some of the biggest stringers ever caught off the lake. He never ahd any of the fancy stuff that we have available to us today.
jb_adams reply :
Quotehave you looked into trolling motors and depthfinders? they are getting cheaper. i would look into a 30# thrust endura motor by minnkota they sell for $109 and you can get a depth finder for pretty cheap as well. i use an eagle fishmark 320. 1500 watts of power 320 by 320 pixels. a d**n fine unit for $160. you can find them cheaper as well. if you give blood a few times you will be set up in no time ;D
If it were my boat, I'd probably do it. I don't see myself buying a small trolling motor right now for a boat that I am borrowing for the season. I have been tempted believe me.
jb_adams reply :
QuoteSomething that might help learn depths and bottom contours along with the c-rig is to make a manual depth finder or sorts.Use some old mono on its spool, or go to Wally World and buy one of the smallest size spools of line (100 yds i think) in 17 or 20 lb. and then find something to attach to the end of it that weighs several ounces, a pyramid weight works well, but that costs money. Then mark with a sharpie every five feet on the line with a spot of the sharpie and do it for however deep you think your deepest water may be...30ft...40ft...50ft whatever you think you may need, then once on the water you can let it out while going out from a bank to find the drops and ledges and humps and other random bottomw structure.
I was told about this from an old-timer on Kentucky Lake who has pictures of some of the biggest stringers ever caught off the lake. He never ahd any of the fancy stuff that we have available to us today.
Someone has already mentioned this in previous posts. I'm still trying to locate a chart for the lake that gives topo information. That's far easier and much less work. Now I just need to find the map. Someone said the local Wal-Mart might have them.
On a similar note, that of not having fancy equipment and boats:
I heard an old joke that is still a good one. To keep it short, a big Bassmasters tournament came into town at the local lake. Big names and sponsors were there with boats and rigs and all the works. One ole redneck drove up in an old beat up late model 50's pickup and an old Jon boat with an old 5 horse Mercury drove up and wanted to enter the contest. The judges searched the rulebook and couldn't find any exclusion so they let him enter. At the end of day one, the ole' boy came back with a boatload of fish. He got to pick out which ones he wanted to weigh. Everybody was astonished. The next day, he came back with another boatload and this time the judge wanted to know his secret and insisted on going out with him on the next time out. So, the ole' boy showed up late again like everyday before that, got the judge and they headed out. He pulled into a little quiet cove where no one was fishing and dropped the anchor. He pulls out a small metal tackle box and pulls out a stick, lights the fuse and hands it to the judge. The judge is now scared to death and screams, "This is dynamite!" The old boy says, "yup, you gonna fish or we gonna have to swim back"!!
Sorry for being off topic. It was too good to not pass along and it just fit right in!
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