Can I use braid on a Texas rig? It is super strong at 50lbs. Also, I have it set up with one of my reels with a 7:1 ratio. A friend of mine said that is a perfect ratio because you want to quickly reel in the slack to set the hook. I also put a small red bead between the weight and the hook eye so it will protect the knot and also add an attractive clicking sound. So is this okay too?
sounds good to me
I always add a bead.. Just a confidence thing for me.
Sure....Other than the bead, that's one of my punching setup's
Mike
Well, i think direct tie is probably fine, but I have pretty much decided to go with a
fluorocrbon leader all of the time. One of the main reasons for me is to have the
ability to break-off when I'm hung up, especially on the Tennessee River.
The only thing is that i would be careful to fish as slow as possible with that setup. Remember, you want to slowly move that worm along and with a 7:1 reel, it might be a little more of a challenge
Just move the bait with your rod and take up slack as needed. You can fish as slow as you want.
On 4/18/2014 at 12:30 AM, MIbassin said:The only thing is that i would be careful to fish as slow as possible with that setup. Remember, you want to slowly move that worm along and with a 7:1 reel, it might be a little more of a challenge
?
On 4/17/2014 at 9:10 PM, 5 Dollar Fishing Game said:Can I use braid on a Texas rig? It is super strong at 50lbs. Also, I have it set up with one of my reels with a 7:1 ratio. A friend of mine said that is a perfect ratio because you want to quickly reel in the slack to set the hook. I also put a small red bead between the weight and the hook eye so it will protect the knot and also add an attractive clicking sound. So is this okay too?
Everything sounds great, except for the slack line with T-rig. I don't ever let a t-rig go slack, I want to feel when the bass picks up the bait. Semi-tight at the very least.
I fish all my bottom contact baits on a 7.1 reel in general
no issues there, IMO
I did it today at one of the local ponds. No fish. Just caught a few little sinks on my swim bait. I'm having trouble with what to do once the bait hits the bottom. Do I slowly raise and lower it? Pop it a few times? Big pulls then let it sink?
All of the above, until you get bit. Then you know what the fish want.
Its pretty early in the year, if you are not fishing around any cover (downed trees, tall weeds, etc) I would switch on over to a carolina rig with a shorter leader (18").
I posted that because i have read before that some people who fish texas rigs prefer the slower ratios because they feel it helps them fish slower.
That is all. Just trying to help.
I'm sure you are right on Mlbassin. Put a fast reel in a guy's hand and it goes to his head that he has to fish faster. First time I used one I had to tell myself to slow down.
I like a 7.1:1 for everything besides cranking. Just need to get more of them!
Not that I fish TX rigs very often, but when I do I tend to drag them. An exception is when the fish are suspended in trees. Then it is strictly a drop presentation. In that situation, I very seldom get hit once the worm hits the bottom.
A fair question is what are you going to to do once you get stuck? (and you are going to get stuck) Are you on the bank or in a boat? When I am in a boat and I get braid stuck, the only thing to do is to wrap it around a boat cleat several times and back off with the trolling motor. I am not a fan of line cuts on my hands, don't ask why I know this. Braid is strong enough that it is possible to warp or bend a reel spool if you get seriously stuck and you start pulling on a straight line with your reel.
You can wrap the line around your sleeve, or a towel in your hand to break it. I have to do it quite often. Just remember to always look away when breaking braid. Braid on a tree limb is no different than mono.Think of a bow/arrow and your jig/bait being the arrow. Its pointed right at you. I'd rather be hit in the back of the head than the front, and yes it has happened.
I try to go get the bait out with the boat before I break it, because I do not want a 3/8 jig or weight flying at me. If I cannot get it out then I break it. I'd rather stir up a tree and ruin it for fishing than hurt myself if I don't need to.
My concern is actually dragging the bait as you mentioned you do. See, I'm a "reaction" angler. I like swim baits, cranks, spinners, etc. I am just now getting started on the bottom stuff like worms, lizards, creatures, etc. on a Texas rig.
My issue I guess is visualizing the strike. In my experience I see how a bass will open it's mouth and hit the "open water" lure. On a bottom rig I picture it getting a mouthful of dirt, sand, leaves, etc. and not my bait.
Maybe if I saw a video of what the bass look like when they hit a bottom bait it would suit me well.
I also have to learn patience. :-)
And to answer the other question, I cut braid before and will do it again. I've snagged a huge tree from the boat and from the bank with braid on a crank bait. After a few systematic tugs, I will get out the braid cutting pliers. A new lure is a lot cheaper than a trip to the ER and pain in my wallet is better than pain in my flesh. :-)
On 4/18/2014 at 1:04 AM, MIbassin said:I posted that because i have read before that some people who fish texas rigs prefer the slower ratios because they feel it helps them fish slower.
That is all. Just trying to help.
you are right, you do have to be careful..... I for one am learning how to fish slower and slower, and catching more fish because of it.
I wasnt disagreeing with you. A guy does have to watch it with the fast reel.
I like to use a fluoro leader especially in clear water. I'm of the opinion fluoro is invisible while braid is not.
Fishing a Trig takes patience. Drag it some then let it sit. Give it a slight twitch let it sit then drag it again. Watch your line and if you feel a couple of bumps, set the hook.
On 4/18/2014 at 1:21 AM, 5 Dollar Fishing Game said:And to answer the other question, I cut braid before and will do it again. I've snagged a huge tree from the boat and from the bank with braid on a crank bait. After a few systematic tugs, I will get out the braid cutting pliers. A new lure is a lot cheaper than a trip to the ER and pain in my wallet is better than pain in my flesh. :-)
Don't cut it. You are leaving a chunk of line for fish, turtles, and my lures to get caught on. Disrespectful to say the least. If you cannot break it, then don't fish with it.
So in theory the lure would break before the braid will?
I wouldn't go calling it "disrespectful" as there is no malicious intent. Don't take it so serious.
Well, first of all why are you throwing a crankbait with 50# braid?
Second, it is disrespectful to other anglers and the environment to leave 5-10' or more of braid floating around in the water. You said you cut it off, so I doubt you are within 10' of the lure or you could just pluck it out. When I see guys cutting the line its more like 20-25' of line.
Dude, it's none of your biz why I throw what I throw. Nor is it an issue as to where I am in relation to the obstruction. Seriously? The point of this thread is about T Rig questions. If you want to rant a different way about the environment, fish welfare, my lure choices, line choices, and the like, then take it off the boards. Feel free to PM me with your concerns.
The Fisher, what's your advantage with the leader? Does it raise the worm better between pulls off the bottom?
I've recently given braid a shot with a flouro leader and I've gotta say that it's So Nice not having any line memory! Love the increase in sensitivity also.
I usually throw it out looking for some change in bottom contour (breakline, rocks, etc.) I usually work it by lifting my tip, reel slack and repeat until I feel something different. When I feel rocks or some change I'll slow it down a lot but still lift my tip and that's when I get bit. That "thump" is addictive!
I use a 6.4:1 I think but it wouldn't make much difference to me since I'm mostly lifting my rod tip.
That makes sense about slowing down at rocks. Most bass will stay put over there.