Won't plane, Prop spins out on stratos 201 pro 2025

Dan_the_fisher reply :

I have a 1993 stratos 201 pro xl with a 200 evinrude. it takes for ever for it to plane out it acts like it can't get enough power to plane out. Then when it finally planes out the prop acts like it wants to spin out, and when you trim it up it starts to spin a lot until it finally comes out of plane. I can play with the trim and still get it up to 45mph with the trim almost all the way down. The lower unit was new on the boat when I got it, and the engine has just been rebuilt. At first the jackplate was way to low, then I adjusted it up to the center of the prop being 3" below the bottom of the boat with the prop and the boat being centered. I'm at a loss for what to do next.

WRB reply :

Sounds like you may have spun the prop hubb and the rubber clutch bushing is slipping.

The engine height is set with the engine cavitation plate parallel or flat to the hull bottom surface using a straight edge at 3 1/2" to the prop shaft center line.

Trim the engine all the way down to get on a plane, then trim the engine up to raise the boat bow up and watch your rpm's, 5800 with about 3/4 up trim should be maximum.

Tom

Dan_the_fisher reply :

So the cavitation plate and the bottom of the boat need to be Parralel, and the center of the prop needs to be 3.5" below the bottom of the hull correct? And I thought that's what it could be on the top speed, but it doesn't act like it is slipping when it is trying to plain out so that had me confused. What could cause the slow plane?

WRB reply :

On 3/6/2016 at 4:30 AM, Dan_the_fisher said:

So the cavitation plate and the bottom of the boat need to be Parralel, and the center of the prop needs to be 3.5" below the bottom of the hull correct? And I thought that's what it could be on the top speed, but it doesn't act like it is slipping when it is trying to plain out so that had me confused. What could cause the slow plane?

That is how you set up the engine height with or without a jack plate, it's your standard set up. You lower the trim using your trim button, the cavitation plate and prop shaft point downwards about 10 degrees, this pushes the boat bow down. When you are on a plane, then you trim the engine trim bottom up until the boat bow starts to raise up so you are pushing less water, the boat speed increases until it hits it's max. Every boat is different, yours should be somewhere between 65+ mph @ 5800 rpm.

Prop cavitation occurs when air displaces water. Prop slippage occurs when rpm's increase and speed doesn't.

the boat not getting onto a plane could be too much weight at the stern, livewells full, gas full and improper engine trim angle ( not trimmed all the way down).

Tom

Dan_the_fisher reply :

The boat was trimmed as far down as it could go, we had one tank of gas full and the other empty. It was normal conditions as far as weight on a boat. And it took like 20 sec to plane out. I'm a big guy (260lb) and I sit on the front deck and it still took 10 sec. I thought something may have been out of adjustment that is cause both problems. Honestly I don't know the way to diagnose between ventilation, cavitation, and slippage, the best way i can describe it is that I am going down the lake I trim up and then the engine revved like what would happen if you pushed the clutch in on a manual truck while driving it.i tried googling my problem and I see that it could be multiple things, and I don't know how to narrow it down.

WRB reply :

Start from the beginning;

1. With the boat on the trailer trim the engine so the cavitation plate is parallel or even with the boats rear flat center planning pad, use a straight edge.

2. Take the prop off and using a straight edge measure the distance from the boats flat center rear planning surface to the centerline of the prop shaft: it should be 3.5", not less of more than 3.75".

3. When you trim the engine down the lower unit should tuck in towards the hull, the cavitation plate and prop shaft is angled down about 10 or more degrees. Look at your trim gage and see if it is working and shows trimmed down.

4. Trim the engine up until the prop shaft is angles up about 10 degrees, look at the trim gage, it should be near the top of the trim up mark. if the gage doesn't work p, replace it.

Put the prop back on.

5. Trim the engine all the way up to 45 degrees to install your transom savor device.

Trim the motor all the way down to get on a plane, up no more than 10 degrees when running. Look back at your wake, no more than a 2' roaster tail at full speed. If you see a 4' to 6' roaster tail at speed, engine is trimmed too high, bring it down.

4 blade prop will help get the boat planning faster, however you loose a few mph top end speed.

Tom

Ski213 reply :

Sounds like it could be the hub as WRB suggested. What's the prop pitch and do you know what rpms you're turning at 45? What rpms when it falls off plane?

Dan_the_fisher reply :

24 raker prop on it now, and about 4K at 45mph and it will fly wide open when it falls off plane.

Ski213 reply :

Can you kinda describe your process to get to 45? Does it fall off on its own or when you try to trim up a little to gain speed?

Also do you have a water pressure gauge? Does it change when the engine starts running away?

Dan_the_fisher reply :

The process to get it up to 45 was get max speed with the trim all the way down then bump up the trim a hair at a time until I got it that high, it may have went a little more but it kept spinning out so that's as far as I ever pushed it, and i dont know about the water pressure at that time I was to busy throttle down and trying not to be overrun by my wake.

Ski213 reply :

Alright. One thing might be to put some kind of match mark on the prop and hub. Run it and after it does its thing check the marks to see if they're still aligned. If they're not then you know you're getting some slippage in the hub. If they stay aligned then you're looking at something else. That's where I'd start if it were me.

Ski213 reply :

I guess another thing would be to take real close look at the prop itself. I don't know that a blade out of whack would create your problem or not but I've got it on good authority that it not being just right can make a big difference.

Dan_the_fisher reply :

On 3/6/2016 at 9:30 AM, Ski213 said:

I guess another thing would be to take real close look at the prop itself. I don't know that a blade out of whack would create your problem or not but I've got it on good authority that it not being just right can make a big difference.

I planed on marking it next trip. I just find it odd that it won't plane, and spins out I figured they where both directly related to each other. But I very well could be wrong

WRB reply :

Go to a dealer and borrowing a test prop, problem solved if you spun a hub.

If borrowing a prop is a problem, paint a strip inside the hub.

You still need to set the engine correctly to optimize performance, your problem sounds like prop slippage to me.

Tom

Ski213 reply :

On 3/6/2016 at 10:19 AM, Dan_the_fisher said:

I planed on marking it next trip. I just find it odd that it won't plane, and spins out I figured they where both directly related to each other. But I very well could be wrong

I think you're seeing a mechanical failure be it hub or whatever. i would think that hub or lu slippage would show at both hole shot and when you're reaching rpms where you're throwing down some hp while trying to lift on to the pad. Out of the hole the prop is under pressure to get the lead sled moving. As you start reaching peak hp and lift the bow it's under a great deal of pressure again.

Tom suggested trying another prop. If you have one available that would be a good way to go. Even if it's not the right pitch for your setup.

Dan_the_fisher reply :

I have a omc four blade prop for the boat, but I know the hub is spun on it. I have to get a new one on it. I was gonna use it as a spare prop

Way2slow reply :

I don't know how you measured your prop height when you set it, but it sure sounds like you either have it too high, you have spun the hub, or rolled an edge on the prop. I can't remember if a 200 on a 201 will run a 24" or if it takes a 22" but either way, something is off. A spun hub will usually not get to full speed, you can nurse them up to about half throttle or so but at some point the hub reaches the max torque it can handle and starts slipping at that point.

Dan_the_fisher reply :

Well when we first took the boat out it was way to low actually like 5", then we lowered it down to what we thought was right but actually was 4"(when we got 45mph)now we have it set to 3 1/2" on the dot. What I can see is this is the right prop, I may have the prop sent off to have it checked to see if that is the culprit. The way I measured prop height the last time was level the bottom of the boat, level the cavitation plate. Then I put a straight edge on the ground and leveled it. Then I measure from the bottom of the boat to the straight edge, then from the center of the prop nut threads. That's how I got my 3 1/2"

Way2slow reply :

One word of caution, when you read what someone else is doing, don't take that as gospel it's what you need to do. "IF" everything is identical, prop, year make and model of boat, engine etc, that could be a good starting point, but if they are use a Raker and you are using a Renegade, things are not the same. Now, with that age of boat, and you having a four blade, it could very well be a Shooter prop, and you CAN NOT run those has high as the three or four blade, high rake props. If it's a four blade Shooter, which has more of a Mickey Mouse ear shaped blade, you might want to drop it down to about 5" and try it.

Matter of fact, no matter what prop you have, drop it down to about 5" and try it. It's it still spins up "like you pushed the clutch in" then the prop is bad/wrong for the boat.

Also, not knocking your weight but for the size you say you are, and then add another person of average size you probably should be running no more than a 22" pitch prop.

Since you say that motor was recently rebuilt, I would do a compression test on it also. Make sure all six cylinders are within 5%. Low compression will kill hole shot.

Dan_the_fisher reply :

With the raker 24 which is a three blade prop not a four, it was set low when we got it around the 5" zone and it spun out just as bad. We checked compression and plugs today and everything is as it should be still

Way2slow reply :

I was under the impression it was a four blade.

If it still messes up 5" down, that prop needs to go to the shop. I would also try finding a 22" Raker you can try. It's possible you might end up spinning it a little over 6,000 at WOT, but I think the rev limiter on that ignition module is around 6,500. I know the factory recommended max is 6,000 rpm but not going to hurt that motor if you spin it a little over the 6,000 and it will greatly help your hole shot.

Dan_the_fisher reply :

Reopening this, still having the same problems. Went with two different props now, both with new hubs. Boat still won't plane out for nothing, still spins out on the 4 blade prop. Have tried a million different jackplate heights as well. Anyone have any other ideas?

Tim Kelly reply :

You say the lower unit was new when you got the boat, I suppose it's possible that the LU might be slipping, and that's where you're gaining revs not speed? If you've tried everything else it might be worth dropping the LU and examining it.

Dan_the_fisher reply :

On 5/17/2016 at 1:30 PM, Tim Kelly said:

You say the lower unit was new when you got the boat, I suppose it's possible that the LU might be slipping, and that's where you're gaining revs not speed? If you've tried everything else it might be worth dropping the LU and examining it.

Sorry didn't give you a good update, I forgot I didn't mention earlier that it will run fine when you get the 3 blade prop to plane out but it will spin out with the 4 blade prop when it planes. I feel like it isn't the prop since it does simalr with both of them trying to plane out. It takes forever to plan out, literally over a minute. I feel like there is something else I'm missing besides the jackplate/prop

Glenn reply :

If you've done the following:

Tried different, new props (to rule out spun hubs)
Tried different engine heights
Verified trim gauge is working and accurate
Verified trim is working the full range
Verified there is no water in the power trim hydraulics (this would cause the motor to lose trim functionality).

Then take it to a mechanic to

Check the power trim unit. It may need replacing.
Tear apart the lower unit. Something wasn't done right during the rebuild.

Dan_the_fisher reply :

On 5/18/2016 at 3:12 AM, Glenn said:

If you've done the following:

Tried different, new props (to rule out spun hubs)

Tried different engine heights

Verified trim gauge is working and accurate

Verified trim is working the full range

Verified there is no water in the power trim hydraulics (this would cause the motor to lose trim functionality).

Then take it to a mechanic to

Check the power trim unit. It may need replacing.

Tear apart the lower unit. Something wasn't done right during the rebuild.

I think it's the latter of the two, the lower unit is brand new before we got the boat and we are thinking it is the problem now.

Dan_the_fisher reply :

Ok checked the gear ratio in the lower unit by putting it in gear and spinning the prop by hand, and I got roughly 1 8/10 of a turn on the flywheel for one complete turn of the prop.

Ski213 reply :

It sounds like the ratio is right. So with the 3 blade you said it runs fine. Meaning once on plane it's all good but holeshot is still no good?

Dan_the_fisher reply :

On 5/19/2016 at 8:44 AM, Ski213 said:

It sounds like the ratio is right. So with the 3 blade you said it runs fine. Meaning once on plane it's all good but holeshot is still no good?

It seems to do fine once it planes out

Bob C reply :

Can you post a picture of the prop and lower unit?

Dan_the_fisher reply :

Yes when I get home

Dan_the_fisher reply :

WRB reply :

What is with the zinc plate below the cavitation plate?

Tom

riverbasser reply :

I don't want to add the all the questions but I read you adjusted the engine height to different positions but you need to do as Tom said and set the cavitation plate level with the bottom of boat and leave it there. Lower pitch props bring boat on plane faster and hold it there. So you may be over-propped.

When you say the prop is spinning out you are sucking air and need to trim down. Do you ever experience and porpoising? Also what about water spray? What does the water look like coming from back of boat?

Further North reply :

My knowledge of props is limited to the fiddling around I've done with mine...but in the pictures, it looks like the prop has a smaller diameter than the part of the lower unit it butts up against...could that have something to do with the problem?

Every prop I've had has had the same diameter there.

Tim Kelly reply :

That's a good spot. If the exhaust gasses are spilling out around the prop it would cause the issues you're having trying to come out of the hole, but be fine once you were up and running. Much like having too much venting on a vented prop.

Dan_the_fisher reply :

On 5/21/2016 at 10:46 AM, WRB said:

What is with the zinc plate below the cavitation plate?

Tom

I assumed that was the alignment to make it run true, I honestly don't know what all they do

On 5/21/2016 at 3:16 PM, Tim Kelly said:

That's a good spot. If the exhaust gasses are spilling out around the prop it would cause the issues you're having trying to come out of the hole, but be fine once you were up and running. Much like having too much venting on a vented prop.

So the prop could be incorrectly mated to the lower unit? I have another boat and haven't been running this one, I'm trying to get it fixed now to sell. So I haven't been testing much on it lately

Further North reply :

On 5/21/2016 at 3:16 PM, Tim Kelly said:

That's a good spot. If the exhaust gasses are spilling out around the prop it would cause the issues you're having trying to come out of the hole, but be fine once you were up and running. Much like having too much venting on a vented prop.

...and the prop is vented as well...

On 5/21/2016 at 10:47 PM, Dan_the_fisher said:

So the prop could be incorrectly mated to the lower unit? I have another boat and haven't been running this one, I'm trying to get it fixed now to sell. So I haven't been testing much on it lately

Sure sounds like it could be part of the problem.

WRB reply :

Could be the torque tab, in the photo it looked it was attached to the side of the hub area, not behind the prop on the cavitation plate. The zincs are usually above the cavitation plate and they are shown in 1 photo, zinc help to prevent castrohphic corrosion from salt water.

The prop looks like a normal OMC SST with vents, look big are the holes threaded for plugs? The only thing I can think of is the prop shaft bearings allow prop shaft wobble, that will cause problems. You could have a hook on the planing pad, from the trailer pads, but that doesn't cause cavitation issues. If the hull has glassed over wood on the transum, wood can dry rot severely weakening the engine mount.

Beyond me!

Tom

gulfcaptain reply :

Just looking at your pics, that zinc tab that hangs down I'd replace with a flat zinc. It may not make a difference but with the prop cutting through the water that may make a cavitation hole on the back side of the tab/side on the down spin from the prop. It might be causing an issue where it sucks air slightly which could lead to that issue you're having. It's just a thought but it's an easy thing to rule out by just taking it off and seeing what happens.

Tim Kelly reply :

If the prop mounting looks ok, to those with a similar set up, then maybe the ports in the prop need plugging or reducing. Presumably you can get plugs like you would for Merc props?

Kevin22 reply :

On 5/21/2016 at 10:46 AM, WRB said:

What is with the zinc plate below the cavitation plate?

Tom

where? The trim tab you mean (behind prop)? Looks homemade out of a chunk of steel.. Probably not the cause of the problems but something i would replace.

Further North reply :

The first thing I'd do is get a prop on the motor that is the same size as the cone housing...

Ski213 reply :

I'm not saying the prop isn't your issue but assuming it's the correct prop for the setup it is my understanding that it ok for it to be smaller than the OD of the lu housing. There is a plastic ring that I've heard called a weed ring or ventilation ring between the prop and housing. Yours looks to be present. My 225 is the same setup different prop and I have no issues. My prop does have a very defined flare at the rear. I can't tell if yours does or not. Looks like yours may have a taper to it. North brings up a good point though and I would definitely make sure that the prop is correct for your application.

WRB reply :

Re read this entire thread and one statement jumps out "45 mph before trimming up, then the boat flies". Bass boat get on plane at 25 mph, then start to trim the engine to increase speed. I am thinking your problem may be your driving skills, heavy boat and 3 blade prop.

Borrow a 4 blade prop that is right for your rig and test drive it.

Tom

PS, the side view of the lower unit looks normal, odd torque tab.

Bob C reply :

On 5/21/2016 at 7:57 AM, Dan_the_fisher said:

The prop hub is too small. Get one the same size as the lower unit housing and you'll cure your problem. The exhaust has to go through the prop, not around the outside.

Dan_the_fisher reply :

On 5/23/2016 at 8:02 PM, Bob C said:

I'll look at it more when I get home, it's been to a mechanic a couple times I thought he woulda noticed if that was the problem. And also if it is how would it let it run fine on plane?

Bob C reply :

On 5/23/2016 at 9:56 PM, Dan_the_fisher said:

I'll look at it more when I get home, it's been to a mechanic a couple times I thought he woulda noticed if that was the problem. And also if it is how would it let it run fine on plane?

I went through the same problem with Javelin I bought a few yrs ago. If I eased into it until I got on plane it would go about 40 mph. If I hit the throttle from a start it would go nose high and wouldn't recover. I changed the prop for one with the correct size hub and it would go on plane instantly and topped out at 55. The exhaust blowing on the outside of the prop hub and onto the blades caused a major cavitation.

Fishing Rhino reply :

You can "help" a boat get on plane by steering it left to right a bit. How much is a bit? Something that can only be determined by trial and error.

The "V" in the bottom of the hull provides lift when the hull is forced sideways by steering input. The left/right/left/right steering is like rocking a car when it's stuck in the snow.

I agree with those who say the diameter of the prop's hub is too small.

S Hovanec reply :

On 5/23/2016 at 8:02 PM, Bob C said:

The prop hub is too small. Get one the same size as the lower unit housing and you'll cure your problem. The exhaust has to go through the prop, not around the outside.

This was my problem when I bought my boat. The dealer set it up with a prop for a 130hp which has a small gear case than the 135hp. The exhaust was blowing out in front of the blades.

Almost no gap with the proper prop.

WIGuide reply :

Some motors actually run better with the smaller hub size. My dad's Ranger 519 with 225 Mercury was propped by a guy who used to race boats before we bought it. The best prop he found for the setup was a Trophy Plus for a 150 gearcase. This might be an application that it doesn't work well with, but there are some that it helps to do that with.

Fishing Rhino reply :

my mistake. I just looked at the prop on my Optimax, and it looks like yours in the photo. The prop hub has a sleeve which fits into the lower unit housing, preventing excess exhaust from escaping.

100

Won't plane, Prop spins out on stratos 201 pro 2025

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