Triton aluminum bass boats 2025

Stan Smith reply :

I m kinda playing around with the idea of picking up a fishing boat. I mainly bass fish. I thought about buying a fishing kayak/ canoe. Then I looked into the twin troller boat for a bit. But, fishing is just more fun with a partner lol. I was looking around at some nice aluminum boats a found this one below. I ve never owned a boat before so give me somethings to keep in mind while shopping please.

http://www.clarkmarine.com/2017-triton-boats-18-tx-inventory.htm?id=1454454&in-stock=1

Russ E reply :

There are people who will tell you to only buy a certain brand , but most new bass boats are well built. Fiberglass or aluminum. if you are going to use it on big lakes, I would stay away from flat bottom boats.

Ranger, and Triton aluminum hulls are designed to handle semi rough water. Trackers revolution hull is also supposed to handle rough water.

Shop around for different brands to find one with the layout you like you can afford.

make sure there is a reputable service center nearby.

KTinman86 reply :

Most companies are making a good aluminum boat nowadays because they see the benefits to the consumer, so they've upped what they're offering in them to rival fiberglass boats but at a much, much cheaper price. I looked at the Triton and really liked it and it comes with great features at a great price. I don't think you can go wrong with a Triton. I personally fish out of an X-19 Xpress aluminum boat and it has far exceeded all of my expectations and I'll never purchase a fiberglass boat. It's light to tow, won't damage like a fiberglass, more fuel efficient, easier to maintain, way cheaper, and on and on... so many benefits over a fiberglass. I walked away with 2 Si combo units, a 112lb Ulterra motor, and a single 12 foot Talon (because 1 easily holds my boat) for about 30K. It would cost me 50k+ to get what I got in a fiberglass package. You're a smart man for looking into aluminum and you'll be glad you did.

A-Jay reply :

Last spring I took delivery on a new Lund 1875 Pro-V bass boat - it has an aluminum IPS2 hull.

It has been a fantastic rig. Safe, Solid, great storage & fantastic fish ability.

There may be boat owner's as happy with their rigs as I am with this Lund.

But none happier . . . .

A-Jay

Catt reply :

You mentioned having never owned a boat but did no mention what kind of experience you having operating a boat?

Stan Smith reply :

very little its gonna be a learning experience.

3dees reply :

learning to drive a tin won't be the same as a high performance glass boat. you won't have to worry about chine walking which is a danger to all but especially to newbies. you'll be ok as long as you take your time while learning how to handle your boat. stay away from rough water until you learn how to drive in it. everyone goes through this learning process. that Triton is a great boat.

BrianinMD reply :

I have an Ranger RT188, basically the same boat, and love it. It is my first boat also and been learning this year. It fishes great, and this one already has hydraulic steering which helps.

Stan Smith reply :

How do you like the 115 Mercury Pro XS? From the small amount of shopping around i have done, this looks like a great motor. I know nothing about boat motors though.

PECo reply :

I own a 2017 Triton 179 TrX with the 115 Mercury Pro XS, which is a glass boat, but my first two fishing boats were aluminum. The reasons I switched to glass were ride comfort and storage, which are both superior with glass.

I took a look at the listing you posted. It's a very nicely equipped boat. Aluminum is definitely a good choice for your first bass boat. Actually, I'd go as far to say that it's the RIGHT choice. You WILL make some noob mistakes while operating it. For example, don't forget to make sure that your bung hole is plugged. I'd also plug the livewell drain to keep it dry. The less weight on your boat, the better. And don't unhook the boat from the winch until the stern is in the water. You wouldn't want to drop it onto the ramp.

Regarding the Triton brand, I know that most boat brands are owned by Johnny Morris, but the quality of the components used on newer Triton boats is better than those used on other Johnny Morris brands. My Triton compared to a couple of buddies' Nitros is like a GMC compared to a Chevy. Nitro definitely gives you more bang for your buck, especially if your "bang" is performance. However, as others have already said, I'd choose performance, quality and features over brand. Almost all newer boats are actually pretty good.

Regarding the 115 Mercury Pro XS, it's a terrific motor. The motors on my first two boats were four-stroke Yamahas, a 60 and a 115, and I thought that I'd never switch to a Mercury, but I was impressed enough with the newer four-stroke Mercurys on buddies' boats to give it a shot. In my opinion, the quality of Mercury's four-stroke motors is finally on a par with Yamaha's.

The motor in the listing you posted has the Command Thrust gearcase. Mine has the standard gearcase. The Command Thrust gearcase is the lower unit from Mercury's larger motors (i.e., larger than 115 horsepower). It has a larger diameter torpedo, which allows it to use larger diameter propellers. There are many, many more larger diameter propeller options available than for the standard gearcase. In general, a larger propeller will give you more torque, which will give you a better hole shot, unless it bogs down the motor. On my motor with the standard gearcase, the standard three-blade propeller didn't provide enough torque, but I solved that problem by swapping it for a four-blade Mercury Spitfire X7 propeller. In my opinion, the Command Thrust gearcase isn't necessary even for my relatively heavy glass boat. It's probably overkill on the lighter 18 TX, but that's not a bad thing.

I like the look of the center rod locker on that 18 TX; I wish mine were laid out that way. If you fish with spinning gear, take your longest rods with the biggest guides to the dealer and put them into the locker. As much as I like rod tubes, most don't work well with spinning gear.

If you anticipate often fishing in cold or rainy weather with a partner, consider getting a port console, unless you'd enjoy their discomfort.

The 24 volt Maxxum trolling motor would work great, even in wind or current. I learned how to use pedal steering with one. Although I now have a 24-volt Ultrex with electric steering, I steer it using the pedal, rather than the remote. Hands-free, baby! However, electric steering is necessary for Spot Lock, which I would not like to live without.

The three-bank onboard charger is also the way to go. Although the alternator on the outboard motor will charge your cranking battery when it's running, the drain from electronics, lights, and, especially, livewell and bilge pumps will deplete it. It's best to top it off with a plug-in charger after every use.

One of the photos in the listing shows that the boat has Baystar hydraulic steering, which is an upgrade from the standard no-feedback teleflex cable steering. Cable steering works fine on a 115, but hydraulic is better.

Make sure that the boat has a keel guard installed.

I highly recommend Boat Buckles for the trailer, too. Once you use them, you'll never go back to untethered straps.

Stan Smith reply :

Thanks PECo! What an informative post. I m playing around with the idea of maybe buying say a cheaper boat and rigging it out with some nicer options like say dual minnkota talons, nicer minnkota trolling motor with i-link and a higher end fish finder. I dont know if this is the way to go or not though as i am very new to the boat market. I really like the look of that triton 18 TX and i am a firm believer in "you get what you re willing to pay for." Any advice here?

PECo reply :

I agree with, "You get what you pay for", but disagree with going overboard with equipment. My motto is, "Keep It Simple, Stupid".

While a couple of my buddies bought Nitros with 150 horsepower motors, I got a 115. Why? I live in Connecticut, where the speed limit on our largest lake (i.e., Candlewood Lake) is only 45 miles per hour. In a tourney with two anglers and a full livewell, my boat can easily go over 45. Why would I need to be able to go 60?

I have a buddy who spends more time messing with his electonics than he does actually fishing. He put a Helix 12 with side-imaging on his bow, mounted the external SI transducer on his Ultrex and networked them with the Helix 12 on his console. He can use a detailed map to automatically follow bottom contours. But guess who gets in more casts and does better in our club tourneys? I've found that a good sonar with a big screen and a detailed map (I like the Lakemaster chip for Connecticut) is all that I need.

If you DO go with a Minn Kota Ulterra or Ultrex that has Spot Lock, you really wouldn't need shallow water anchors, unless you fish in lakes with a lot of heavy vegetation or large shallow flats. I've never seen anyone deploy them in my club tourneys.

My first boat was an aluminum 2006 G3 Eagle 165 with a Yamaha 60 horsepower four-stroke. I sold it because one of my fishing buddies is 350+ pounds and I got tired of motoring around with the bow in the air in slow left-hand circles. He moved to Virginia. If I still had that boat, I'd be a happy camper with a lot more money in the bank. I sometimes fish with the guy to whom I sold it and he says, "Nope, you can't have it back."

You're new to boating. It'll take a while before you figure out what you really need. In my case, I decided that the softer ride and better handling of glass is worth the expense. But I'm CERTAIN I'd be happy with that 18 TX, too.

Stan Smith reply :

Got it! so a great compromise would be get a nice trolling motor with spot lock. Forget about the shallow water anchors. I m sure they are a great addition but for 3 thousand dollars!! I think i will enjoy my first new boat just as much without them. Maybe consider a nicer fish-finder depending on how the budget lines up at the end.

PECo reply :

I have two Humminbird Helix 12 G2s on my boat. I have SI on the console, but use the built-in US2 transducer on the Ultrex, so I only have regular sonar on the bow. As much as I like them, if I could do it all over, again, I'd probably give the newer Raymarine finders a shot. I've found that the electronics on the G2 Humminbirds are a little buggy. I think that they were rushed to market a little bit too fast.

The Raymarine Dragonfly 7 is a nice fishfinder that provides very clear images. If you have the budget to step up, the Raymarine Axiom 9 and 12 are even nicer.

Stan Smith reply :

I checked the Raymarine Dragonfly out. The built in WIFI streaming is a great feature to put another screen at the front of your boat! If i bought one of these raymarine units, would it be compatible with the tranducer that would be built in to one of the minnkota trolling motors?

PECo reply :

I'm not sure whether Minn Kota's US2 transducer is compatible with the new Raymarine finders. US2 stands for "Universal Sonar 2" and you have to get a brand-specific adapter to use it, including for a Humminbird (aka Johnson Outdoors, which is also the parent company of Minn Kota) finder, oddly enough, but I'd send an email to Minn Kota to ask.

slonezp reply :

The US2 is compatible with most any 2d capable unit with the right adapter. It does not offer side or down imaging for any graph. If you want SI/DI on the trolling motor you will need to use whatever company's trolling motor SI/DI transducer.

My opinion. A boat is a tool and a platform used to catch fish. The boat rigged with tools such as fish finders, gps/mapping/SI/DI etc and shallow water anchor(s) can make the "job" of locating and catching fish less difficult. When thinking about rigging the boat, you need to think about how you plan on fishing. Are you going to fish shallow and beat the banks? Are you an offshore fisherman? Are you a bed fisherman? Will you be targeting species other than bass? Will you be fun fishing? Will you be tournament fishing? Will you be fishing alone or with a partner? Will you be fishing small or large bodies of water? Are the lake(s) you fish already mapped? Base your purchasing decesions off the answers to these questions (and probably a few more).

Don't skimp on the trolling motor. If you are primarily a bass fisherman, more than likely you will spend 90% of your time on the trolling motor and not the big motor. Seems only fitting this should be of highest priority. Shallow water anchor(s) are great for bed fishing, for picking apart docks, and a must for panfishing in shallow water. As far as graphs, If you plan on fishing deeper than 4 foot of water, then spend some cash on a graph that has gps/mapping. Side imaging is a great tool for locating and identifying structure. Not a must, but IMO well worth the cost.

So, before saying no, evaluate your situation and set your priorities.

As far as the Triton. Can't say I've heard anything bad about their aluminum rigs.

Catt reply :

On 9/6/2017 at 9:26 PM, Stan Smith said:

very little its gonna be a learning experience.

Get with someone who can teach how drive a boat this size.

Learn what your trim does at different speeds.

As soon as possible learn how to drive in rough water... anyone can drive in slick water!

PECo reply :

In order to operate a boat with a motor in Connecticut, residents, real property owners and persons with Connecticut registered boats must have a Safe Boating Certificate, Certificate of Personal Watercraft Operation or USCG vessel operator license. You should check whether your state has a similar requirement.

Whenever I go fishing with someone who has the proper certificate or license, I encourage them to operate my boat. I've had some incidents, including a damaged prop, scrapes on the hull and a bent guide bunk on the trailer, but it's nice if your fishing partner can take control of the boat when needed. My tourney partner drives my boat whenever I need to re-rig or we simply need a change of pace. I agree that "A boat is a tool and a platform used to catch fish." I'd rather focus on fishing than operating the boat.

Spankey reply :

You got some great advise here guy.

But I think your thoughts to outfit it to your likings is a good idea. Get a good v-hull with a nice ride and go at it fitting it yourself up.

Stan Smith reply :

Well i actually have a moderate amount of experience on jetskis/waverunners. I have boating license from when i owned that. I dont feel this is adequate experience to operate a boat however. maybe i m wrong.

I think i will start with a nice trolling motor, one with spot lock and wireless controls. this is a neat feature that can be used no matter what type of fishing i will be doing. Then i will probably get a nicer fishfinder. I ve never even used a fishfinder! I probably just need a NICE but basic one.

I think these would be the only 2 places to focus money on outside just the boat initially. I can then outfit further depending on my needs that are uncovered.

Catt reply :

On 9/7/2017 at 10:42 PM, Stan Smith said:

Well i actually have a moderate amount of experience on jetskis/waverunners. I have boating license from when i owned that. I dont feel this is adequate experience to operate a boat however. maybe i m wrong.

No certificate or boating course is a substitute for seat time!

A boat is a tool to get you to & from the fish... safely!

KTinman86 reply :

The Mercury Pro-XS is a good engine, but the 4 Strokes being made today are so good, there's really no reason to go with a 2 Stroke. The hole shots are as good or better depending on what prop you use, they're more fuel efficient, and they aren't nearly as heavy as they used to be. Plus, they just last longer and have fewer problems. My marine guy says he fixes 2 Stokes 4 to 1 over 4 Strokes and he's been in the business for 30 years.

Also, like another gent said, you don't have to worry about aluminum like you do glass, and being new to boating, it's one less thing to worry about. However, the aluminum boats today are far better than the aluminum boats of even 5 years ago. There has been a concerted effort by the boating industry to put more research and time into aluminum, and it's showed. My Xpress aluminum is top-notch and I've had so many guys at the dock or in-passing inquire into it. I can get into the back-waters on our rivers that the glass boats just can't get in to, which has helped me fill limits that I would've otherwise failed to fill on the crowded community holes. So, don't believe glass is superior to aluminum, they're just different, not better or worse.

You had mentioned getting 2 Talons to anchor your aluminum... That's not necessary, at all. Buy 1- 12 foot Talon and trust me, it'll suffice. Buying a 2nd anchor would only be aesthetically pleasing and a waste of money. If you really want to get tricky, buy an adjustable mounting plate, which will buy you almost another foot of anchoring capability. Plus, when going under bridges, etc, you'll have one less Talon to fold down... I've only owned Talons, so I can't speak on Power-Poles, but most guys I fish with and against have them, and some have owned both, with a preference toward the Talon.

I've used Lowrance and Humminbird electronics exclusively, with my latest purchase being the Mega-Imaging Humminbird and they're so clear, user friendly, and the goodies are just incredible. I've mapped some of our smaller lakes that were paper-mapped 30 years ago and they're nothing like they used to be; I've found so many great spots that have produced some great days. My buddy Chris has a couple Garmin Panoptix Units on his rig and they're so cool, with guys only just beginning to exploit their capabilities. They work in a similar fashion to the 360 Humminbird units but in "real time". The truth is, all the high-end units are great and you wouldn't go wrong purchasing any of them, so it's really just preference. I prefer the Humminbird units because of their Minn Kota compatibilites, so it works great as a "system" of finding and presenting lures to fish in the most efficient manner. That being said, the absolute most important thing regarding electronics is learning how to properly use them, period. Most guys don't understand how to use them properly, so it's just a waste of money.

All in all, think about building your rig as a fishing "system" because that's really what it is, a means to find and catch fish by being efficient. If you're going to make a large investment in an aluminum boat, electronics, anchors, an on-board charging setup, etc..., you're looking at 30k give or take a few thousand, so take the time and do your research because it'll help you become a better angler.

A few things you'll want to make sure you have on your new boat:

1. A recessed trolling motor pedal 2. Rod lockers that accommodate 8 foot rods 3. An auto bilge pump 4. A live-well system with all the bells and whistle (if you're going to fish tourneys) 5. A hydraulic jack plate 6. An on-board charging system 7. Lockable storage (especially the rod lockers/tackle storage). 8. A top-notch insurance policy (don't skimp, trust me) 9. LED lights in your storage areas (a must have for early mornings or night fishing) 10. A power-trim switch, anchor switch, and livewell switches on your front console, 11. Put a bigger graph on the bow of your boat, 12. If you're serious about becoming a better angler, buy units with mapping (card compatible), Side-Imaging, Down-Imaging, 360-Imaging (if you go Humminbird), and traditional 2-D sonar 13. Buy high quality trolling batteries (so worth it) 14. Shallow water anchor 15. Trailer brakes 16. Keel guard (especially on a glass boat) 17. Swimming/safety ladder (can save your life) 18. High qualith PFD (don't skimp) 19. Full range of console gauges 20. A 36 volt, high powered trolling motor so you have no control issues... Anything you can think of that you want or need... This will certainly add to the price of your boat, but it'll also increase your fishing success, your comfort, and the fishability of your rig. Buying a boat is a rather large investment, so do it right. Good luck brother!

Further North reply :

Everything I've heard about Triton tin boats is positive.

I run an '05 tin boat (Crestliner CMV 1850) wouldn't swap it for anything. If something bad happend to my boat, I'd replace it with one a lot like Ajay's (Possibly the soon to be released Crestliner Bass Hawk 1850).

IMO, the whole "Glass boats have a better ride" thing is vaporous at best...since I fish 10x - 20x the time I ride (fish for 8 hours, drive the boat for 25 minutes = 19.2x...this WILL vary considerable on big southern impoundments) , I'm going to bias my choice towards what fishes better...it's not like I'm a walleye guy trolling my 'round the lake, or sitting there with a jig hanging over the side....

The "Tin boats blow around more in the wind" is nonsense IMO observation as well. I've never seen an apples to apples comparison...but I've seen a lot of glass boats get batted around when my tin boat is doing just fine...but I didn't pick an under-powered trolling motor, so that may impact things...

Often overlooked/hidden cost of glass boats: Size for size, you're gonna need a bigger tow vehicle, and a bigger outboard to tow it around and move it down the lake. Both can translate to serious $$$.

All that said, there's nothing wrong with glass boats - several folks I know have them, I like them just fine...but fisherman should make their choice based on what they like and how they fish, not on some insubstantial, subjective concept about glass boats being better.

PECo reply :

I must have missed the post where someone tried to tell the OP that glass is better than tin, but having owned both tin and glass bass boats, I can tell you for certain that glass boats have a much, MUCH better ride than tin boats.

Does it matter when you're motoring around slowly using your trolling motor while fishing? Heck no.

Do tin boats blow around more in the wind? Not that I ever noticed in mine.

Does it matter when you're making a five mile run down a tidal river against the incoming tide and wind during the winter in the northeast? Heck yeah!

Is a glass boat worth the expense and relative fragility? To some, no. To me, yes.

I'm old and comfort is more important to me than expense. Plus, I store my boat in a garage, and have a tow vehicle with four-wheel drive and a HEMI V8.

But could I be happy with a tin boat? Sure I could. If I had to store my boat outdoors, I probably would have bought another tin boat. Even with a garage, I'd bet if I had that 18 TX, the thought of trading it in for a glass boat would never enter my mind.

Stan Smith reply :

Lets change directions a bit. I still a pretty young guy BUT, I ve bought several new vehicles and in doing this i have found that one should never pay sticker price on a new truck/car. How much wiggle room is there on a new boat to negotiate a good deal? Is it similar to new automobiles?

Further North reply :

How much wiggle room is going to depend on the dealer and where you live...

I don't buy new cars, trucks or boats (hate the depreciation, too much of a numbers guy), but can tell you there's just as much, if not more wiggle room in used boats.

On 9/9/2017 at 9:53 AM, PECo said:

I must have missed the post where someone tried to tell the OP that glass is better than tin, but having owned both tin and glass bass boats, I can tell you for certain that glass boats have a much, MUCH better ride than tin boats.

Does it matter when you're motoring around slowly using your trolling motor while fishing? Heck no.

Do tin boats blow around more in the wind? Not that I ever noticed in mine.

Does it matter when you're making a five mile run down a tidal river against the incoming tide and wind during the winter in the northeast? Heck yeah!

Is a glass boat worth the expense and relative fragility? To some, no. To me, yes.

I'm old and comfort is more important to me than expense. Plus, I store my boat in a garage, and have a tow vehicle with four-wheel drive and a HEMI V8.

But could I be happy with a tin boat? Sure I could. If I had to store my boat outdoors, I probably would have bought another tin boat. Even with a garage, I'd bet if I had that 18 TX, the thought of trading it in for a glass boat would never enter my mind.

Good summary of the differences.

...and no, no one had popped in - yet - to sing the praises of glass over tin (or vice versa), but it always happens and I assumed the OP had run a search...

I'm also "old", and store my boat in a garage...but I tow with a smaller and less expensive all wheel drive vehicle...I'm not at a place where I feel I can discount expense...and I just don't find glass is more comfortable...but note my exclusion for folks making long runs on big water...much easier to have that be a critical part of the equation in those cases.

Here in the northwoods, the opportunities for long runs just don't exist, with very few exceptions. Horses for courses...

WRB reply :

Aluminum bass boats excel anytime the boat bottom makes contact with the lake bottom. If you plan on beaching the boat for any reason get a aluminum boat.

Stability comes with hull design and width + weight. Triton makes a good solid boat, Xpress makes a top of the line aluminum bass boat, Lund and Alumna Craft and several others make good V bottom and bass boats, see A-Jays Lund for example of high end aluminum V bottom boat.

Catt has given you great advice about learning to handle your boat. You can hire a good guide who knows whatever electronics you have and teach you the basics how to luanch and load your boat, how to control and use the trolling motor and how to operate your boat and engine, well worth the few hundred dollars it will cost.

Good luck.

Tom

slonezp reply :

On 9/9/2017 at 10:54 AM, Stan Smith said:

Lets change directions a bit. I still a pretty young guy BUT, I ve bought several new vehicles and in doing this i have found that one should never pay sticker price on a new truck/car. How much wiggle room is there on a new boat to negotiate a good deal? Is it similar to new automobiles?

Boats don't come with a window sticker like cars do. Higher volume dealers tend to have more wiggle room. It's easier to negotiate on a showroom model than a boat you order. Finally, your best bet at negotiating is to get multiple quotes. I played dealers against each other to get to a price I was comfortable to pay

Stan Smith reply :

Any recommended dealers to shop with in the southeastern US?

443

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