Built a deck for the bow, a new floor for the center, and a brand new bow mount trolling motor. Here are my pics SO FAR.
This is what the bow looked like before I covered it.
I then used cardboard to make a template of the bow to transfer to 5/8" plywood which i coated in fiberglass resin.
Another view.
Here is the deck cut out and coated in fiberglass resin "jelly". I would not recommend using this stuff as it is messy and hard to work with. On the center floor I used the liquid fiberglass resin and it worked great.
Here the deck is carpeted and my pedestal seat mount is installed. I had to raise the mount with 1" aluminum square tubing so my pedestal would not hit the top of my boat bench. I did not want to put a hole in the bench so this is the best I could come up with.
Here the deck is installed and my seat is in. I used 2"x2" boards for bracing on the underside of the deck. I coated those in thompson's water sealer as well as the complete underside of the deck.
Next I wanted to put a new center floor in my boat. The old floor was v-shaped and the original carpet was beginning to come up.
I transferred all my measurements to 5/8" plywood and began to cut it out. I then coated the plywood in liquid fiberglass resin.
This is what I used to waterproof the top of the deck. I used thompson's water seal on the bottom and braced it with 1x2 boards.
I used 2" polystyrene foam insulation doubled up to make my floor level before putting my carpet covered plywood in the boat. The foam is super dense and extremely light weight adding flotation as well as stability to the plywood.
Another pic of the floor. I used indoor/outdoor carpet from Menards for the entire project so far.
This is where things got out of control. I just had to have a new bow mount trolling motor. So, against my wifes wishes, I went to Wal-Mart and got a new Minn Kota PowerDrive 40 for the front of my boat. I have a 32lb transom mount but another motor would be better? I had my brother make me a plate for the front to mount the new motor on out of two 1/8" pieces of aluminum welded together and bolted to the bow.
I am going to put the quick release plate on here when I can get to Cabelas and buy it so I can take the motor off when traveling.
I'll also carpet this aluminum plate later on when I put on the quick release bracket.
I still need to get an inline fuse for the trolling motor and a new battery to put under the front deck before I take a break for a little bit. We still have lots of ice on the lakes here in Nebraska so I have a another month or so before I can take it out and fish. I'll keep you posted on any more mods. Thanks for looking at my post.
Looks great! Keep us posted on how it works out for you.
Great job dude looks awesome I always wanted to do that with my alum. maybe after I finish my fiberglass boat.
Doc
Man, you got it goin on. Looking forward to seeing the finish product.
Lookin sweet man, lookin sweet ;D
How did you support the middle floor section under the plywood?
I supported the floor with 2" foam insualtion doubled up down the center of the boat.
I also used 1x2" wood treated with Thompson's Water Seal to strengthen the floor.
Here is the Minn Kota quick release trolling motor bracket I got from Cabelas for $40.
Another look at the motor with the quick release bracket installed. This was a must have.
Next is wiring and building a battery box under the floor of the bow.
thanks for the pics gave me some good ideas
I finally got the wiring for the trolling motor done today. What a pain that was to run down the parts for that. I bought 3/4" conduit at the lumber store to run the wires thru and had to go to a Stereo/Electronics store to get a 8 ga. fusible link and 50 amp fuse. I checked everywhere else in town including the auto parts stores looking for a fusible link and the biggest I could get was 10 guage that would hold a 30 amp fuse. I also needed about 20 feet of 8 guage wire to run from the battery in the back of the boat to the trolling motor plug. The stereo/electronics store had 8 guage wire for $1 per foot. I was not going to pay that so when I was a walmart I seen a set of auto jumper cables for $14. They were 12 feet long, (12 positive and 12 negative) which is more than I need, and were made of 8 guage wire. Perfect. Then I needed butt connectors to connect the 8 guage wire to my trolling motor plug. I had to go to a generator/well supply shop to get those. The biggest butt connectors I could find anywhere else were for 10 guage wire. After running all over town trying to get all the stuff I needed I got it all done.
I still need to get a battery box to get this all cleaned up.
Here is a view from the back. I still need to get my rear pedestal seat installed. I just have not decided if I am going to deck the back or not.
Another view of the trolling motor wiring.
I am going to put it on the water tomorrow and check the stability. The ice here in central Nebraska has finally melted off the interstate lakes. I have a 15 horse Johnson tiller to put on yet and I am going to buy a Humminbird 565 sonar along with another battery for my transom trolling motor. I'll post more pics when I get them.
You did a great job there!
I am getting anxious to start my decking and mod on my 15.5'.
Just waiting for the 3 meters of snow to melt so I can get it out of the building where I have it stored.
Nice work though!
When you put the floor in the middle of the boat, was it "level"? I have a similar, though much older, v-hull that I would like to put a floor in. I don't have the middle seat section like you have, so I wouldn't have to cut out that section. It just seems like when I put the plywood in to fit, the whole piece angles downward toward the front of the boat. Will that change when I get it on the water?
Wow this is a great thread! I am really looking forward to seeing the finished product. How is it in the water?
I used the 2" foam insulation under the center floor to level it before I put my plywood on it. It took alot of trial and error as far as fitting goes but I finally got it. The best part is that all the flooring/decking is removable. I wish I had put a storage door in the front deck up in the bow but I guess now I know next time. I'm still working on a pedestal mount for the back. I've had the boat on the water one time so far and even with the added weight, that new Minn Kota pulls the boat around great. Even in a strong wind.
No bilge pump for under all that flooring? Arent you worried that foam will trap water?
I notice you guys do these decks but I never see anyone fasten them, arent you affraid they will slide? How would you fasten them and hide the screws?
Nice job!
The foam is high density and is advertised as non absorbant so it better not hold much water. The stern of the boat is open so I can see how much water is in the boat. I do have a new bilge pump but I am not sure if I will put it in or not. The deck in my bow will not go anywhere because the floor is cut out around the side braces of the front bench. The center floor is held in place by the benches on both ends of it.
Nice setup, how long did the transformation take?
Here is an updated pic with the outboard motor on and back deck done.
The rear bench also fits over the center benches.
This build has been alot of fun to do and put on this site. I still want to get a sonar unit and onboard charger.
great job! I like it and I enjoyed watching the transformation.
I have a 14 V-Hull and would love to do what you have done. Where and how did you begin ?
how did you support the front of the deck up at the front of the boat where it tapers in? and is that deck removable or did uou drill into the bench?
thanks,
The front deck is removable and no holes were drilled in the bench. The plywood has 2x2" boards screwed to the bottom of the plywood for stability and the deck is supported by the bench at the rear of it and a u-bolt that comes thru the front of the boat that the winch strap clips to. At first I did not think that this would be enough but there is no place for the deck to go down because the bow of the boat is wedge shaped anyway. I weigh about 250 lbs and have stood up in the bow with no problems but most of my time will be in the seat which is bolted down right over the bench.
Did you put a hole in that rear bench for the rear seat mount?? I noticed that it does not have the aluminum tubing you used in front.
Is the rear deck screwed down?? And if not then do you worry that the rear deck might tilt and dump someone off of it?? It's not as wide as the front deck is so if someone leans too far towards the motor or center of the boat it might allow them to fall off by tipping since it's so narrow.
I did not put a hole in the rear bench for the seat mount. Instead of using the aluminum tubing on the rear, I used 2x4's to make the frame and then added another 1x4 to build it up. The rear deck is not screwed down and I made it to actually fit across the center side benches of the boat as well. I did this so if I am fishing by myself, I can sit in the center of the boat and pull the seat out of the bow to stand up there. That bench is extremely stable and will not tip. The decks actually straddle the aluminum boat bench supports to keep it from sliding front or back. When traveling across the lake using the Johnson outboard, the pedestals for the seats are removed and the seats put into the bases in the floor to lower my center of gravity. I'll post some pics of the underside of the rear bench soon but now I have the boat under a tarp.
Here is a pic of the rear bench being used in the center of the boat. I fished all day today this way and it worked out great with just me in the boat.
Another view from the front.
Here is a pic of the underside of the rear bench. In all the bench weighs about 30 pounds.
Great job!
I have a Lowe 1457V and you gave me some good ideas.
SV
What size wood and plywood did you use for your bench ?
Looks great !!!
The plywood is 5/8". The framing for the rear bench is 2x4 and the deck in the bow is 5/8" plywood with 2x2" framing.