Mercury engine manuals 2025

Nitrofreak reply :

I found some manuals out there, the best one so far is produced by Seloc which worked out pretty well with my old Rude/Johnson outboard engines, the manual is nice and packed with lots of info but I am looking to limit the wide variety of engines and years that they cover, I have ventured into fuel injection with my newer boat, it is a 2000, 200 merc efi that I have very little experience with or knowledge of.

Are there any manuals out there that specifically cover this engine? if so, can you help point me in the right direction please.

Thanks all !!

Ohio Archer reply :

Online manual:

http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercury/manuals/135-150-175-200.html#/76

I searched for "repair manual 2000 mercury 200 hp outboard" and got a dozen different sites come up. Most are multiple engine sizes, though.

Nitrofreak reply :

Thanks Archer !!! I had not seen that one yet, I will research this site and see what it offers, much appreciated !!!!

Way2slow reply :

I have a scary question. Why not just go to the dealer and order the factory manual? The last one I bought was only $35.

Nitrofreak reply :

On 2/9/2016 at 10:11 PM, Way2slow said:

I have a scary question. Why not just go to the dealer and order the factory manual? The last one I bought was only $35.

Not a scary question at all, my honest and somewhat embarrassing answer is that I had thought about that but have not asked that question because a friend of mine with an older merc had already tried to purchase a manual for his engine from the one and only merc service center we have close to our area and was denied for the thought that it would be taking business away from them, I get it, I just don't know how true it is, guess there is only one way to find that out for sure...

I have a BPS with a service center not much further away if that doesn't pan out, that may be another option.

Thanks Way2slow !!

Way2slow reply :

I guess the ones around here figure a sale is a sale, and if they told someone that, no way in he** would that someone take it to them for service if it was something beyond the person ability, which many times is the case.

tomustang reply :

On 2/8/2016 at 11:21 PM, Nitrofreak said:

I found some manuals out there, the best one so far is produced by Seloc which worked out pretty well with my old Rude/Johnson outboard engines, the manual is nice and packed with lots of info but I am looking to limit the wide variety of engines and years that they cover, I have ventured into fuel injection with my newer boat, it is a 2000, 200 merc efi that I have very little experience with or knowledge of.

Are there any manuals out there that specifically cover this engine? if so, can you help point me in the right direction please.

Thanks all !!

For mercury, you have to go by serial number, within that 2000ish time frame the serial numbers may differ for the manuals. I've found mine used on the 'bay for $30 from a closed down shop, they retail over $120.

You could also use the online ones and print out the specific pages.

Catt reply :

iboats web site $28.27

Nitrofreak reply :

On 2/10/2016 at 1:22 AM, Way2slow said:

I guess the ones around here figure a sale is a sale, and if they told someone that, no way in he** would that someone take it to them for service if it was something beyond the person ability, which many times is the case.

A couple of the issues I am having I would like a shot at repairing myself, I have done a lot of repairs and service work to all kinds of older craft, in fact even once thought of putting myself through some type of education for the newer stuff and maybe opening a business if all went well, I really enjoy the marine industry a lot, this particular shop I have done business with and they truly are unwilling, and your right, I really do not want to take my issues there if I can help it, when I first had to go to them for some parts they told me that they would have to wait until they had enough orders before they would submit an order which could be as long as a month, maybe they do have to wait I'm not sure but, I too would think that business is business, profit is profit, so I can see them saying something like this to my buddy, hence the hesitation to want to ask for the order, the first time I had ever visited that place there were 2 techs outside working on a boat, I had seen one of them reach in and hit the starter and the other took a hit to the lower shin by the prop, not sure of the circumstance that led to that.

On 2/10/2016 at 1:32 AM, tomustang said:

For mercury, you have to go by serial number, within that 2000ish time frame the serial numbers may differ for the manuals. I've found mine used on the 'bay for $30 from a closed down shop, they retail over $120.

You could also use the online ones and print out the specific pages.

The serial number is key to any make to get the right information and parts, that's for sure, I have looked on there for things related to my engine but have not located anything as of yet, I will keep looking though !!

Thanks Tom, I hadn't spoke to you for a while, hope all is well my friend !!!

On 2/10/2016 at 1:33 AM, Catt said:

iboats web site $28.27

I will check there this evening, thanks buddy !!!!

tomustang reply :

Everything's great

What's your serial number?

Nitrofreak reply :

On 2/10/2016 at 2:43 AM, tomustang said:

Everything's great

What's your serial number?

tomustang reply :

http://www.amazon.com/Mercury-Service-Manual-0G960500-0T408999/dp/B000YYT3NM

Mercury Service Manual 135/150/175/200 HP serial number 0G960500 and above EFI models 0G960500 thru 0T408999

This is the one you need, its the book after the one I have

Catt reply :

iboats has everything you need in one place including tech support from factory reps.

tomustang reply :

I could always trade you engines, I want a 200

Nitrofreak reply :

On 2/10/2016 at 3:31 AM, tomustang said:

http://www.amazon.com/Mercury-Service-Manual-0G960500-0T408999/dp/B000YYT3NM

Mercury Service Manual 135/150/175/200 HP serial number 0G960500 and above EFI models 0G960500 thru 0T408999

This is the one you need, its the book after the one I have

Phew ! 200 bucks man, but it is what I am looking for, I think I am going to take up Way2slow and catt's advise first and see what they may have to offer, having tech support is a pretty cool option, but I have tech support here too ya know !!

By the way, this is a brand new powerhead with only "supposedly" 22hrs on it, it looks really fresh and I do believe it has been replaced looking at some of the wiring repairs and such it was not done by any expert in the field that's for sure, you may be better off with what you have LOL !!

Nitrofreak reply :

On 2/10/2016 at 3:34 AM, Catt said:

iboats has everything you need in one place including tech support from factory reps.

I do like the idea of having access to one engine for three years for 30 bucks, it is very appealing, is there a print option in this site? I didn't see it advertised is why I am asking.

Catt reply :

On 2/10/2016 at 6:10 AM, Nitrofreak said:

I do like the idea of having access to one engine for three years for 30 bucks, it is very appealing, is there a print option in this site? I didn't see it advertised is why I am asking.

The price I quoted was book form

Nitrofreak reply :

On 2/10/2016 at 7:38 AM, Catt said:

The price I quoted was book form

All I had seen was website access if I wanted a specific engine, the seloc manual has like from 1965 to 2006 and covering everything in between, maybe I missed something or possibly had the wrong criteria or shucks maybe even the wrong site, I googled it from my iPhone so it is possible that I didn't see everything that I needed to see.

Way2slow reply :

If someone quoted me a price of more than $35 - $40 for a factory manual, I would know they are probably a rip off joint when I comes to parts pricing. Mercury sets a recommended list price, some dealers will sell at that price, some dealers will mark it up additional 15% or so. Some actually double it and more. Some Independent repair facilities will almost double it if the have to buy the OEM part because a lot of dealers will not give them a price break and they are still going to make their 100% markup on parts plus the price for their labor. Your place may not be a licensed Mercury dealer and not be getting the parts at dealer cost but still using the signage and stuff to make it look like he is. Then you have those using the much cheaper, generic parts and pricing them like they were the OEM parts.

You have to face the fact, todays overhead cost for businesses is high, very high and a lot of them tend to get very creative on their pricing strategy to pay the rent and put a few dollars in their pocket. In the 60's when we ran a service station 25%-35% was a good markup, today, it's almost a minimum of 100% and double or triple that in a lot of cases.

As for having to wait to place an order, they do need a certain dollar amount to get the price break and shipping, so if it's a small place or during the winter months when business is slow, you may have to wait. I have a friend that runs a very large repair facility and during the winter months, he's told me I may have to wait a week until he can get a large enough order.

Catt reply :

iboats

dot

com

Use their search for Mercury manual

Nitrofreak reply :

That's what I did Catt, I'll wait until I get on my laptop and see what's what, I have been having some issues with my phone lately, weird things...

might be time for a new one.

Nitrofreak reply :

On 2/10/2016 at 9:09 AM, Way2slow said:

If someone quoted me a price of more than $35 - $40 for a factory manual, I would know they are probably a rip off joint when I comes to parts pricing. Mercury sets a recommended list price, some dealers will sell at that price, some dealers will mark it up additional 15% or so. Some actually double it and more. Some Independent repair facilities will almost double it if the have to buy the OEM part because a lot of dealers will not give them a price break and they are still going to make their 100% markup on parts plus the price for their labor. Your place may not be a licensed Mercury dealer and not be getting the parts at dealer cost but still using the signage and stuff to make it look like he is. Then you have those using the much cheaper, generic parts and pricing them like they were the OEM parts.

You have to face the fact, todays overhead cost for businesses is high, very high and a lot of them tend to get very creative on their pricing strategy to pay the rent and put a few dollars in their pocket. In the 60's when we ran a service station 25%-35% was a good markup, today, it's almost a minimum of 100% and double or triple that in a lot of cases.

As for having to wait to place an order, they do need a certain dollar amount to get the price break and shipping, so if it's a small place or during the winter months when business is slow, you may have to wait. I have a friend that runs a very large repair facility and during the winter months, he's told me I may have to wait a week until he can get a large enough order.

I work with GM and have been a tech for almost 40 years, always had an interest in marine but never pulled the trigger, I am and have been a shop foreman for the last 18 years so I know how the mark up works and just how much it takes to be profitable given the market we are in, I hate it but it's a necessary evil IMO, I know you have a good bit of experience with engines of today and I am happy that you are part of this conversation, I would love your input on the issues that I am experiencing if I may ask.

Way2slow reply :

Not sure how much help I can be with your Mercury, I raced them back in the late 60's and early 70's, but haven't had a whole lot to do with them since. I got into OMC in the late 70's and better at modifying those than working on stock motors. For about the last 15 years I've just built hotrod 3.0 OMC's. Making the 3.0, 200, 225 etc, put out over 300hp and still run on pump gas. I'm probably doing my last motor now. A friend in California I built a 325hp motor for about seven years ago asked me if I would build him a 3.3L 450+ hp motor http://www.davebushracing.com/dbr-johnsonevinrude-33-liter-b-spec-sleeve.html and like an idiot I agreed. That's about 100 hours of bending over an engine stand with a die grinder in your hands preparing it for those sleeves. With the work I'm doing, it will probably realistically be closer to 500 hp with the injection system we are putting on it.

I've already pulled a couple of the vacuum motors out of my flow bench for coffee roasters I've made, (I roast my own coffee beans also), because I doubt I will porting any more intake systems where I need a 1,200 cfm flow bench. Pushing 70, my old bones and muscles can't handle the hours in front of a flow bench or bent over a motor they use to.

Nitrofreak reply :

Now I know why you chose your handle, pretty cool stuff man, if I am ever in the market to get a little extra out of my 200 I know who to ask that's for sure !!!

Maybe we can give it a shot if you don't mind, maybe a few things to look at or try while I await my service manual, what's happening is that I believe I have 2 problems.

1) I believe I have a misfire, it's idling like a race car engine with a thumper cam, I have done a compression test to check the internals before I purchased it, all 6 cylinders are at 135psi, with all 6 plugs removed during the test, I am fouling the number 5 and number 4 plugs (black), first thought, too much fuel, possibly a leaking injector so I did a leak down test on the system both key on and key off, system pumps up to 38psi and holds for over an hour before any noticeable change (drop) in pressure, while we are on the subject of fuel I did do a complete system clean, including removal of the fuel cell, I have only had the chance to look at one cylinder so far for spark and strength of spark but that's my next step, I need to finish the rest before I can determine/eliminate a possible weak coil, from there I need a manual to figure out the triggering.

2) I now have a recent issue, smoking really bad, white smoke like too much oil, all 6 plugs are soaked and causing it to stall, I have no clue how this oil injection system works, following the hoses though I can see it has what appears to be a control valve/pump and I am wondering how to diagnose the flow rate to see if it has a defect.

On 2/10/2016 at 9:15 AM, Catt said:

iboats

dot

com

Use their search for Mercury manual

Just placed an order, thanks buddy !!!!

Way2slow reply :

Here is where lack of knowledge of your motors comes in. If it was an OMC, the first think I would do is say check the recirc (recirculation) valves in the intake, but I don't know if Mercury runs them or not. Simply by the nature of the way a two stroke works, they have areas that lets fuel accumulate, and if that fuel is not syphoned off, it dumps large globs in the cylinders at one time. The recirc valves are one way valves that keep the that fuel siphoned out of the intake to prevent that. In an OMC, if they go bad, they give you the exact problem you describe.

I'm pretty sure the EFI motor's oiling system works pretty much like the carbureted motors in that the oil and fuel is premixed by the oil injection prior to it going into the injection system.

I still have an old 1988, 115 tower of power I-6 Merc and it has an idle control module on it that went out and that caused it to have a very rough idle, but I don't know if yours has that or not since it has a totally different ECM.

Also, again, not sure about yours but the carbureted mercs run what I call a two stage stator, having a high speed and low speed winding in it. A bad low speed winding it the stator will cause similar problems.

I'm will also post a link to where you will find a collection of the best Mercury gurus around, at least a few years ago it was, haven't been on their in a while myself. http://www.screamandfly.com/forumdisplay.php?20-Technical-Discussion/page2&order=desc. If all the old heads are still on there, I can assure you, they could tell you the right things to try.

Also, I know it's not the time of the year to go cruising down the lake at WOT but I would suggest you do a plug dump and see if it's a high speed or low speed problem or both. By this, I mean you get it warmed up, then take it WOT for about five minutes to gives it time to get good, clean burn. Then, while holding it still wide open, cut the switch off or pull the safety cord and shut it off, You don't want to let it idle or lift off the gas if possible before shutting it off. Then pull all six spark plugs and see how they are burning. They all should be nice and even, between a paper bag/ light tea color and white. Depending on the motor, I usually do this while heading back to the ramp and kill it just before the NO WAKE area, then use the TM to load it. With some motors, it's a whole lot easier getting the plugs in and out while standing behind it than bent over it on the lake.

Also, a word of caution. If your boat is one that gets up on the pad very nicely and flies the hull good, trim it down some before killing it and still hang on. Some boats don't take to kindly to you killing the power while they are trimmed up and flying. They can do a bat turn in a heart beat, and if you don't know what a bat turn is, that's not the time you want to find out. Watch the You Tube video of the idiot cutting across a wake in his new Triton with it up on the pad. At the end you see what a bat turn is.

Nitrofreak reply :

Thank you very much for your input Way2slow, I did see that video a year back or so, it's been a while, you could see it before it even happened but that was a nasty turn, I don't know how many injuries the guy suffered, it said it at the end of the video but it was a lot, I don't know that I have that amount of room for a 5 minute run like that, at least not on my home lake, Smith Mountain has a stretch that it could be accomplished on if need be, I feel I don't have enough experience with this craft just yet to attempt a shut down like you suggested but thanks for the caution note, it will come in handy if I ever do such a test.

I will get into this once I get my manual and get it figured out, Thanks again for all you have sent my way, it means a lot and I will put it to good use !!!

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