I just got a 14 ft alum bass boat I have a minn kota endura 44 lb trolling motor do i wanna have as deep as i can get
or just below the bottom of the boat ?
I usually set mine just deep enough that the prop doesn't cavitate (sputter on the surface). Cavitation is inefficient and will scare fish away. This depth will vary depending upon how wavy it is. If you set the motor too deep, you run a greater risk of hitting objects, fouling the prop on weeds, and tearing up the prop and/or bending the shaft.
On 3/19/2013 at 5:56 AM, Ratherbfishing said:I usually set mine just deep enough that the prop doesn't cavitate (sputter on the surface). Cavitation is inefficient and will scare fish away. This depth will vary depending upon how wavy it is. If you set the motor too deep, you run a greater risk of hitting objects, fouling the prop on weeds, and tearing up the prop and/or bending the shaft.
This
On 3/19/2013 at 5:56 AM, Ratherbfishing said:I usually set mine just deep enough that the prop doesn't cavitate (sputter on the surface). Cavitation is inefficient and will scare fish away. This depth will vary depending upon how wavy it is. If you set the motor too deep, you run a greater risk of hitting objects, fouling the prop on weeds, and tearing up the prop and/or bending the shaft.
Yep. I usually keep mine a little deeper than it needs to be so when the wind picks up I don't have to mess with it. It does make the prop a little more vulnerable though.
The act of sucking air from the surface of the water is called ventilation. cavitation is when "bubbles" form on the low pressure side of the prop.
I set mine almost all the way down but I fish mostly waters that get rough. For me its trying to keep the motor in the water.
Just past the bottom for me works best (55lb. Minnkota on a 12' Alumacraft)
On 3/19/2013 at 5:56 AM, Ratherbfishing said:I usually set mine just deep enough that the prop doesn't cavitate (sputter on the surface). Cavitation is inefficient and will scare fish away. This depth will vary depending upon how wavy it is. If you set the motor too deep, you run a greater risk of hitting objects, fouling the prop on weeds, and tearing up the prop and/or bending the shaft.
X3, or is it 4?. The way I do it is by putting the top of the prop a few inches under the surface (loaded boat), then going from stop to full, if it doesn't cavitate or suck air I'm good.
I fish in waves quite a bit. I only raise it if I'm headed shallow.
Is the prop wash hitting up against the hull of the boat counter productive, or should it pass under the boat?
On 3/21/2013 at 2:50 AM, Traveler2586 said:Is the prop wash hitting up against the hull of the boat counter productive, or should it pass under the boat?
I don't believe it's a factor while your fishing, prop isn't spinning fast enough. If you put it on high to run across a bay it might. I've been running a powerdrive iPilot. The remote control has speeds in increments of .5, from 0-10. .5 can be too fast when finesse fishing, if the water is like glass.
On 3/21/2013 at 3:10 AM, slonezp said:I don't believe it's a factor while your fishing, prop isn't spinning fast enough. If you put it on high to run across a bay it might. I've been running a powerdrive iPilot. The remote control has speeds in increments of .5, from 0-10. .5 can be too fast when finesse fishing, if the water is like glass.
The reason I asked is because one of my first TM's was a Johnson that had the motor angled downward to push the water down under the hull; which at the time I thought was a good design; but I haven't seen anyone else pick up on the idea. As a side note, when in the shallows the Johnson could really kick up the mud.
Sorry, couldn't get the BR logo out of the way so I had to rotate the pic.
Anyway, my point is that if prop-wash is not an issue on a glass boat I will raise mine also; having it down it can hit wood/rock and bend the shaft. I've had to replace mine and it's not cheep.
Kicking up the mud, while immediately might not be good, may activate sluggish fish.
On 3/21/2013 at 3:41 AM, J Francho said:Kicking up the mud, while immediately might not be good, may activate sluggish fish.
Around here it kicks up the PCB's (chemical) that are in the mud.
I hear they're delicious!
On 3/21/2013 at 3:34 AM, Traveler2586 said:The reason I asked is because one of my first TM's was a Johnson that had the motor angled downward to push the water down under the hull; which at the time I thought was a good design; but I haven't seen anyone else pick up on the idea. As a side note, when in the shallows the Johnson could really kick up the mud.
Sorry, couldn't get the BR logo out of the way so I had to rotate the pic.
Anyway, my point is that if prop-wash is not an issue on a glass boat I will raise mine also; having it down it can hit wood/rock and bend the shaft. I've had to replace mine and it's not cheep.
2 words...Minn Kota
Obviously, you don't want your motor bumping into stuff, but the motor will push you the fastest with it set as deep as it will go
On 3/21/2013 at 2:08 AM, J Francho said:I fish in waves quite a bit. I only raise it if I'm headed shallow.
Same here. All the way down unless lake bottom or weeds are an issue.
On 3/21/2013 at 5:36 AM, slonezp said:2 words...Minn Kota
And........................................ ? You forget, I'm from Maryland; I'll need more than that.
I have it down on my ranger. But one day I found a log that was visiting a tidal creek channel; the log was a solid snag and didn't move; it tore half the TM mounts off the boat and I almost took a dip. Two week later I had my TM back from the shop with a new shaft, and after seeing the bill, I felt like I had received one too.
MK's composite shaft has a lifetime guarantee
On 3/21/2013 at 9:34 AM, slonezp said:MK's composite shaft has a lifetime guarantee
Oh ! So it bends a bit, and if it breaks they replace it for free?? Sweet
On 3/21/2013 at 6:19 AM, wnybassman said:Same here. All the way down unless lake bottom or weeds are an issue.
And I bet you have the 52" shaft, too.
thanks for all the info...very helpful
I run mine as deep as I possibly can in water deeper than like 4 foot . On a 20' ranger, seems like the deeper it is the more torque it has. The closer to the surface and its gone ( like when you get bogged down in weeds and whatnot and have to pull it to the surface).
I have a home made wooden kayak. I’m currently installing, configuring a mout for my motor on the stern. I have installed a spring loaded hinge where the TM bracket attaches to a piece of 2x4. This allows the motor to bend back and return if I hit odstructions. Just food for thought.
Also, some of you say, the TM should be a few inches below the bottom of the boat for best performance and others say keep it as deep as you can. I ask because I want to shorten the shaft I have and I’m wondering if that’s the right move. Does either placement for the motor really make a huge difference? What’s the final ruling on this! Please weigh in and CAST your vote please. (Really no pun intended). ???? FISH ON!
Is it ok to have some water ripple around a little behind where my prop is after I run it, or should I lower it? Its hard to decribe what I am talking about, but it makes a little noise like if you ran your hand through the water, or like what's behind your paddle when you are paddling in a kayak. Water displacement...?
On 6/1/2018 at 8:19 PM, RenegadeBassin said:Is it ok to have some water ripple around a little behind where my prop is after I run it, or should I lower it?
It's fine. You could lower it if you want. It's not that scientific.
Heavy glass bass boats don't tend to lift in waves as high as a aluminum boat, set the depth so it doesn't cavitation in normal wave conditions or boat wakes. I like mine set 16"-18" deep it's usually windy with white caps and leave it set deep most of the time.
Tom
I was told by a Minn Kota tech that they design them to work best at 9" under the water.
I tend to run mine about a foot down, but will go all over.
I have an Ulterra, so changing depth is as easy as pushing a button...