I have a 14' old towne canoe. weight is about 65 lbs. I bought a 55# pound minn kota and now want a battery that can push me around for about 5 hours with charge to spare to get me home if wind blows up.
How much reserve capacity do you think I would need.
would something like the optima d34m do the trick?
whatch think?
look at cabelas agm's the group 24 is only 129.99
The most bang for the buck in a battery is going to be one that has caps, and you have to maintain, in a quality name brand. They will have the largest available amp hour capacity for a given group size.
Amp hour capacity or reserves minutes if amp hour is not stated, determines run time for any given load so, while an AGM may cost two or three times the cost of a battery you have to add water, if they are both the same capacity, the AGM will not last any longer with the same load.
The AGM's are a few pounds lighter, so having to constantly take it in and out of a canoe, might make a difference. A group 31 in any kind of battery is going to get real old constantly lifting and carrying that thing.
Having to constantly lift the thing, I would probably lean toward the group 24. With your maximizer, you will get much longer run times than the standard TM and that canoe is going to push pretty easy, just don't do a lot of running over half speed until you get a feeling for how long it will run. 55# of thrust is like an outboard on a canoe.
I really dont think you can go wrong with a everstart maxx. The ones I have are 205 min reserve, and they are only about 15 - 20 lbs heavier than a group 24 battery. For $70 and a 18 month warrunty, I think they are a good deal.
I have two of them for a 24 v system, and I can use it all day and still have juice to spare.
I also have an everstart maxx. I use it in my 15ft boat at electric only lakes so it lasts all day. It will last a long time and is pretty inexpensive. It is the big yellow one at Walmart. It was $75 but i think that is only with a trade in of an old battery. Im not sure how much it is by itself.
Your gonna be haulin in a canoe with a 55lbs of thrust trolling motor.
I had that Optima for one day,.,..got me to the other side of the lake and started dying. Barely made it back and drove straight back to sears and returned it for the ones I've known and trusted for the last few years.
I've been using the sears diehard deep cycle batt's . Largest reserve I could find 220 mins!!
Just thinking that heavier may be better in your case as it will also be a ballast for the bow. You can duct tape it in place if it slides around,hehehehe
Couldn't resist!
Eliminating the paddle is going to increase your time on water and range. Can't wait till you're back,it's going to be a whole new world for you.
LBH - what do you have against duct tape. It's mans greatest invention since we discovered fire. Are you some kinda commie or something? lol
I'm trying to avoid to avoid getting a trailer, so battery weight is important. the group 24 trojan weighs 52 lbs and that's plenty heavy to load and unload from the truck to the canoe and back again.
If I get the trailer and I am beginning to realize that this is inevitable, then battery weight becomes a moot point. When that happens I'm thinking of getting of getting another trojan group 24 and keeping toward the stern. The canoe would then be balanced fore and aft and when one starts to lose power I just switch the TM to the other.
But I need to see for myself how much time I can get out of the group 24. I fish on a 125 acre lake, it's usually pretty breezy so there will opportunities to drift, and of course there are spots where I pull into the reeds and work the area thouroughly, so the single 24 may work out. Remember too, that even though the motor is a 55lb thrust it has the variable speed control and maximzer built in. It will only draw as much power as it needs.
I like the physicality involved in loading the canoe into the pickup bed and will only give up on that if the damaged tendons and artheeeritis, prevent me from doing so.
Avid,
If by some chance you have one the old round dash mounted 30 amp or larger meter like we all used to put in our cars, connect that inline with the positive cable to your TM. Most usually start at center show negative or positive current flow so it doesn't matter how you connect it. You can see how many amps the motor is drawing at different settings and use those amps to figure out exactly how long a good battery will last. A constant 25 amp draw will run you almost three hours on an 85 amp hour battery before the battery is too far down. A constant 10 amp draw will run about 7 hours.
this sounds like a very scientific way to go about it, but what I intend to do is just get out on the water and go for it. My wife will be on standby alert so if I screw up I can just beach it and call her on the cell phone (assuming the battery is charged LOL) and like the cavalry she will come to the rescue.
Two things I'm trying to avoid is to cut the TM cable to add length, and second to get a trailer. The TM is sidemounted on my canoe and the cable can reach pretty far, but cutting and splicing is no big deal. MK has a little blurb about it in the owners manual. Basically saying that 6 guauge wire must be used.
As for the trailer, well #1 it's a big expense and #2 If I'm trailering than why the hell am I fishing out of a canoe?
You never realize how an injury can change your life. I got the canoe so I throw it in the pickup and be on the water 5 minutes after getting to lakeside. Now, it's starting to turn into a hassle. I'm adapting what I was able to use based on my past physical ability to my current reality.
I'll do it of course. But I can see the time coming when I'll be selling all the boating stuff I currently have and get a setup that is better suited to the needs of someone who is loosing the strength and flexibility of youth.
I don't understand where a battery comes into whether or not you get a trailer. You wouldn't launch a loaded canoe from the trailer. The battery and motor don't stay attached, you load and unload them just like your tackle and rods (hence the release clips for the wire).
QuoteI don't understand where a battery comes into whether or not you get a trailer. You wouldn't launch a loaded canoe from the trailer. quote]Of course I would. You don't remove an outboard or a trolling motor/battery from a bass boat when it's trailed, so why would you do it with a canoe?
http://www.castlecraft.com/canoe_trailer.htm
this is getting intresting avid its a canoe and a battery go fish and have fun i think your worrying to much ;D
I just wouldn't spend that much money just to avoid lifting a battery off of the floor of the truck and the motor from the rear seat or from in the canoe.
Where I launch, it's about 15 ft of rock and somewhat steep. Both batts and both motors come off to lessen the weight when I take it out and I'm alone. When it goes in, the batts are out but the motors are fine as it is downhill. I also have rollers I built so it moves nicely)
Carrying the batts the 15 ft and putting in the boat once it's loaded really isn't so bad. I actually found it easier with 2 batts. Lifting both at once balances you and makes the walk much easier.
Just some input from my travels. Just trying to help out. By all means, you deserve to set it up whichever way best suits you, as long as you get to posting some pics soon!!
What are rocks? I've been around Florida lakes all my life and haven't seen a rock yet!
Must be nice to be young.
Wait until you get some age on them bones and aches in those musles and see how much fun it is carrying 50 - 75 pounds of battery, and then trying to lift it over into a canoe/small boat without you, the battery and everything else going for a swim, and without having to walk out into the water to set it in. I'm 6' and over 200 pounds and still don't like lfting the dang things. Make good friends with a one of dem cow-practer's, your going to need one regularly, also a good back brace. He already said he had tendon and ligament damage, are we wanting to finish him off.
Wel,I'm not neccessarily a pup but sorry, just trying to help. Avid knows me better than that, If I were there he wouldn't carry a thing.
Ouch,
Sorry, I didn't mean that in a negative way, being a new guy on the block, the last thing I want is to cause problems. I'm sure from the number of post you both have, you have a pretty good relation with each other. I was actually just jokeing around but guess it didn't come across that way.
There is no offense taken at any comments I've read. I actually appreciate the input from everyone. This is a great forum with few, if any mean spirited comments, ESPECIALLY from LBH. He's probably the most considerate person on the board.
Cajun 77's comment is probably true. I am worrying too much, but that is because I am really having trouble adjusting to the fact that I am physically unable to do things that a few months ago I completely took for granted.
I can't paddle and row anymore. I just cannot do it. It freaks me out, but this is the new reality. My joints are arthritic and my tendons are scarred. They will never be the same again. This is what happens when you grow older. Way2slow understands this fact of life, and trust me, it sucks.
But I am determined to figure out a way.
That is why I'm posting so many questions.
I've been a serious bass fisherman since I'm 12 years old, and I'm not about to stop. If worse comes to worse, I'll go back to bank fishing like when I was a kid, and take a guided trip every so often. But I'm not ready to "throw in the towel" yet.
I still have a few weeks of PT, but the doc says without surgery things are about as good as they will get.
So yes, I would love to just to jump into the canoe and go have fun.
But life isn't as simple for me as it used to be.
This is the best group fishing site on the web.
I'll have it sorted out soon, just please bear with me a little while longer.
Thanks guys.
avid.
hey avid i was just poking at you hope everything works out for ya
hey avid? time to take a kid fishing so he can carry your batteries around. ;D
Most of the batteries out there are made by Johnson Controls with different labels - Sears, Wally-Mart, Discount Auto, etc. Irregardless of the source they will last you past the warranty in most cases. Using them as frequently as I do, I have found that the source doesn't matter as much as the maintenance.
Group 27 is going to give you the best results and doesn't weigh all that much. There is about a 5 pound difference between a group 24 and a group 27. If you have the space and physical ability then two in parallel is obviously better than one.
Avid,
Maybe one of these would work for you.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1200t.htm
Just don't charge them to fast. Wear them down and get a trickle charger to recharge if this seems like a good battery for you.
I had 2 of a very similar type (Reactor) that I killed pretty quick in a car using alternator (200 amp).
Pretty much no discharge rate and a super fast recharge rate.
I can say though, I had one that was new in a car that I was driving.
The alternator died in this car on my way to work. I drove 30 minutes to work and 45 minutes home on just the battery. Not bad, huh?
Here is the rest of the story.
The car was an 87 Nissan 300Z. Computer controlled and fuel injected. It used a little power to get to work. Well when I left work it was dark, raining, and the windows quite fogged. So I had the headlights on, wipers on, and the blower motor running. The car made it home and after I stopped it in the garage, I figured I would try to start it for S&G. Fired right back up. No problem.
78 minute reserve at a 25 amp load and only 37 pounds.
This maybe the battery you are looking for.
Please don't take this wrong, but with the injuries you have and this is the best you can expect a canoe might not be the best alternative for a fishing boat. They are tippy at best, and your safety would be the main concern. Sell the canoe and get a wide Jon Boat, A 14' Jon, with a trailer, and the 55lb TM, and a good heavy Battery you are set for a good safe day of fishing. Probally less stressful on you, and that means more enjoyable, and a lot less stressful on your wife. Another thing to remember is cell phones don't work under water.It's hard to give up the things you love and enjoy because of injury or health, it's a situtation your are going to have to adjust to and it sounds like you are well on your way of doing that. Look at LBH's boat, stable, low and look's like it;s easy to fish out of. Just a thought, and I hope you don't get offended, I am really concerned about your safety.
thanks guys, I appreciate all the good advice and support. I've outfitted myself the best I can with having to make a major investment like a boat/trailer. I got those stabilizers from Cableas, I spoke with a company rep at Srping Creek about location etc. They are the nicest people.
I feel confident that when the doc says it's ok to go out again (end of August is target date) then I'm as ready as I can be. I'll load the canoe like always except with the stabilizers attached. then add the battery and motor at lakeside. hook em up and go get em. If it don't work, well then, back to the drawing board.
Good luck Avid, hope all looks good at your next Dr.'s visit.
thanks for all the good wishes, but the news is not good. I will need surgery. doc says the bursa in my right shoulder has to be removed and the tendons in my elbow repaired. The good news is that I can fish again, with moderation, till the surgery is set up. And that after the surgery and P/T doc assures me I will be fixed up good as new. Can't wait,
Gotta get my mojo working.
Hi, AVID
I know where you are coming from, I too have RA in my hands, shoulder, knees, back and ankle. This changes your life in many ways and it's not fun. I also have an OT canoe, 14ft 7in Guide. I can't paddle very long without pain and have gone to a trolling motor 2 years ago. The side mount is OK but does not steer well for me. I bought one trailer 2 years ago and if you put any weight in the canoe it would twist the trailer at the ball making the canoe tilt. That trailer was designed to carry only the canoe and you could not carry anything in your canoe or launch from the trailer. It also was painted metal and rusted no matter how much you washed it. I have since bought an aluminum trailer from Castle Craft (on line) a Trailex SUT-200 great trailer, won't rust. You can carry some weight in your canoe without any problems, trolling motor, tackle boxes, ect. (use a pad under theses items) but I do not carry heavy batteries inside the canoe for fear of hull damage from bumps. You can launch your canoe from this trailer with all your gear just don't put the trolling motor on the bracket until the canoe is in the water. To your original question about battery size, I would get the biggest deep cycle battery you can. When I go fishing it is from dawn till dusk (fresh and salt water) and I have been in trouble more than a few times due to wind, current or I just went to far to fast. I now carry two Everstart Maxx from Walmart.
Good luck with what ever you decide to do.
I like Joshkeller's solution.
Keep the open side up :~) Dave
I have a 15 ft canoe with a 40 lb thrust minn kota and the big yellow battery from walmart. I can go three days out on the lake fishing and camping using the battery for the motor, the lights and lights at the campsite while getting ready for bed. Just want to let you know when I am in the back of the canoe and there is no wieght in the front, on five with 40 lbs of thrust I am looking at the sky and water is coming in the back of the canoe.
This post was resurected but I'll give another update.
I have a MK vector 55 3x on a side mount.
I have a trojan group 27 agm deep cycle marine battery
I have two stabilizers that add tremendously to stability.
I can fish all day and not have to worry about having plenty of power to spare.
this peace of mind is worth $$ to me. Here in SE Florida it is always windy and some wicked storms will blow up, literally out of nowhere.
I rigged up a pulley block system to make loading easier. Works pretty well. I have to take out the battery but depending on the angle I can sometimes leave the motor in the canoe (dismounted) I just bought two ramp ends so I can rig up a loading ramp. The idea is not to have to do any lifing at all. The block pulley really moves the canoe forward with ease, but I still have to lift, and if it wasn't for the shots doc gave me a few weeks ago I would be in trouble.
I'm scheduled for my surgery on Oct 19th and then P/T. The shots should keep me in the game till them.
Right now I"m working on increasing the motor mount supports, I really like the Vector 3x. It has great power and features, but it's too heavy for a canoe (42 lbs.) So I have to distribute the torque or I just might split the gunwale.
Anyway, thanks for bringing this up again. I'm really enjoying dreaming up all these ways to keep myself fishing.
Now if I could just catch that 8lber..........