Electric Help Needed, Please!! 2024
(='_'=) reply :
hey!! about a month ago we removed the motor of our boat to paint it... today i am reconnecting everything again... but i am having a problem... when we removed it, i was in charge of the mechanical, and my friend, of the electrical part.. but now im alone, so i have to connect everything... the mechinical is all done, and half the electrical... the bilge pump works, livewell pump as well, and the electric choke and fuel pump also.... however, the starter is not working.... i disconnected the spark plugs, and tried turning the key, but the starter wont turn...
so, there are 3 cables that go in the motor, these 2, and another one with a male/female plug which is already connected....
my question is, where should i connect these two?? and if they are properly connected, where is the problem? maybe in the ignition???
(='_'=) reply :
the 2 wires missing are the black one in my hand and the white one behind, with a plastic cover... both of them have eyes, so they must be connected to bolts....
(='_'=) reply :
anyone??
Gotfishyfingers? reply :
That one picture isn't helping. Take a few more pics, maybe I can help.
Broke bass fisherman reply :
On 7/3/2012 at 8:57 AM, Gotfishyfingers? said:That one picture isn't helping. Take a few more pics, maybe I can help.
X2
Traveler2586 reply :
Have you got a voltage tester of any kind? a light-bulb and two wires can work. you'll need to check for power and ground at the starter and solenoid. The heavy black wire (-12 V) is usually the engine ground, the heavy red wire (+12 V) should find it's way to the solenoid. the white wire I can't say.
You can try searching the web for a wiring diagram for you motor, search on year, make, model.
If you have battery and ground connected to the motor correctly you can take a ground wire jumper to the solenoid's small terminals to activate the solenoid.
There should be a -12 V wire (black heavy), +12 V wire (red heavy), start wire (small), run wire (small).
Look at your electrical connection points carefully, terminals that have had wires removed may show evidence of tool marks.
That's the best I can do for you with the lack of specific engine information.
(='_'=) reply :
thanx!! i will take better pics today...
yes, i have a multimeter...
the white wire shown on the pic, is actually red, it only has a white cover at the end... since the red cannot be seenon the pic, i said it was white because thats what can be seen... that wire i connected to the solenoid of the lower big bolt.... and the black wire i connected to a bolt on the motor, which looks clean so i assumed something must be there, as the rest of the bolts look like they have not been moved....
the ignition switch has several wires, i will also take a pic of those, since some of those are not hooked to anything.... for painting we just removed the ignition switch but i believe the wires came loose with the movement, since we didnt do that on purpose i dont know where they should be hooked...
Fishing Rhino reply :
The key switch, when turned to the start position sends power to the solenoid. You should have two heavy wires at the solenoid. It looks like you have a red wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter. There should be another heavy wire connected to the solenoid from the battery.
When you turn the key, the solenoid is activated and closes the circuit from the battery to the starter, which activates the starter. You said the starter doesn't spin. You should hear the solenoid clicking when you turn the key. If you do not hear the solenoid clicking, then it is not getting power from the switch, or it is defective.
You can test the starter easily. Leave your plugs disconnected and use jumper cables. Make sure the starter is grounded with one cable. Then, using the other jumper cable clip one end to the cable connecting the starter to the solenoid, at the solenoid, then touch it to the positive terminal on the battery. If the starter works, the problem is in the switch/solenoid circuit.
I believe you said you have a tester. Make sure you have power to the key switch. Then have someone hold the key in the start position. You should have two live connectors at the switch, one for the ignition, the other to activate the starter. With the switch in the on position, you should have one live connector, which would go to the ignition.
The only bugaboo is if there is a connector for accessories on the switch, then you'll have two hot connectors and a third when the key is turned to start.
On my boat there is a separate toggle switch for accessories. Other boats may be different.
Fishing Rhino reply :
I was just looking at your photo again. I only see one power cable at the solenoid, and it's the cable between the solenoid and the starter. One of those two disconnected cables goes to the solenoid and the other should go to a grounding bolt. You'll need to determine which is the positive cable and which is the negative/ground cable. The positive cable should go to the solenoid.
(='_'=) reply :
thats right Tom, here is how i connected them... the red (white) cable goes to the solenoid´s bolt, and the black one to that bolt directly to the motor... however, it didnt work... if i put the red (white) one directly to the starter, it will work, so the starter is working.....
i think ill have to take pics of the ignition switch, i am almost fully convinced the problem is there and not on the motor side of the cables....
Fishing Rhino reply :
Did you try a jumper to the solenoid? You have two smaller wires to the solenoid. One should be a ground (negative), the other positive. Try jumping to the small positive wire. If that makes the starter turn, or the solenoid click, then your problem is between the solenoid and the power source at the switch.
You'll need to find out which terminal on the switch is live only when the key is turned to the start position. That will be the terminal for the solenoid wire.
(='_'=) reply :
thanx, ill try that!! exactly how do you jump it?? touch it with the live (red) wire of the battery??
and, the switch is labeled, and one of the loose cables reads "ign" i believe... i think that one is the one that is live when the key is on the Starting position, but ill have to check....
Fishing Rhino reply :
On 7/4/2012 at 7:02 AM, (= said:thanx, ill try that!! exactly how do you jump it?? touch it with the live (red) wire of the battery?? Yes.
and, the switch is labeled, and one of the loose cables reads "ign" i believe... i think that one is the one that is live when the key is on the Starting position, but ill have to check....IGN is ignition. That should be live when the key is in the run position. There should be another connector on the switch for the starter. That should only be live when the key is held in the start position.
(='_'=) reply :
On 7/4/2012 at 7:23 AM, Fishing Rhino said:IGN is ignition. That should be live when the key is in the run position. There should be another connector on the switch for the starter. That should only be live when the key is held in the start position.
so IGN should always be live as long as the key is "open"? and that wire feeds what?? because right now the wire is not hooked to anything.... what im tinking is that it should be hooked to something outside the harness??
yesterday i couldnt take pics, hopefully today i will....
Fishing Rhino reply :
On 7/4/2012 at 10:05 PM, (= said:so IGN should always be live as long as the key is "open"? and that wire feeds what?? because right now the wire is not hooked to anything.... what im tinking is that it should be hooked to something outside the harness??
yesterday i couldnt take pics, hopefully today i will....
That wire feeds the ignition system, which fires the spark plugs. That's why the engine stops when you turn the key "off". There must be a wire beneath the console which comes from the engine's wiring harness. I'm old school. I remember tinkering with my cars when the ignition system consited of a coil, condenser, points and a distributor. Todays electronic ignitions have coil packs and many fire the appropriate spark plugs with a "crank trigger". There are sensors on the flywheel which tell each coil pack when to fire. As to the innards and components, it's beyond me.
There should be some type of terminal block beneath the cowl. The wiring harness should hook up to them, and from the terminal block, the wires lead to the appropriate electrical units. It may be a plug connection vs a terminal block. The last time I fiddled with outboard wiring was forty plus years ago. My outboard had a terminal block. I had to get a schematic to make the proper connections.
In either case, plug or block, there should be a wire at the end of the harness away from the engine, to activate the ignition. The individual wires should be color coded for each connection. But, you'll need a schematic to know which is which.
(='_'=) reply :
d**n.... supposedly my friend labeled the wires when he disconnected them, but the labes are gone now.... and i cant find the schematic or diagram anywhere....
i guess i will try to make it work one more time, then ill wait for my friend to see if he remembers, and the third option will be to take it to an electric shop....
Traveler2586 reply :
On 7/5/2012 at 3:57 AM, (= said:d**n.... supposedly my friend labeled the wires when he disconnected them, but the labels are gone now.... and i cant find the schematic or diagram anywhere....
i guess i will try to make it work one more time, then ill wait for my friend to see if he remembers, and the third option will be to take it to an electric shop....
Have you tried searching the web for a diagram of your motor type.
Take some good clear pic's of the Ignition Switch "IS" and connecting wires, and, pic's of the wires at the motor.
Tell us how many positions the "IS" has and what the switch terminals are marked, ie. BATT, ACC, RUN, ST. You may only have BATT, RUN, ST.
From what I can see in the pic's you have, there is a Brown wire on the solenoid which should go to the start "ST" terminal of the ignition switch. "IS".
You should have a red wire (+12 V) that goes from the main battery +12 V to a terminal on the "IS" that may be marked "BATT"
These two wires when crossed should run the starter, if they're connected to the "IS" properly the starter will run only when the key on the "IS" is turned to the start position, and only then.
Then you'll need to identify the "RUN" wire which should find it's way from the "IS" to the Distributer Circuit, it supplies +12 V (BATT) to the ignition system when the "IS" is in the Run position. It may go to the Distributer Points,, or one side of the high voltage coil.
The better the pic's the better we can help you.
Traveler2586 reply :
BTW, I'm thinking this is an older motor with out a computer system?????? If it has a computer then you must find a factory wiring diagram.
Also, does your boat have a kill switch?? If it does it's wired in series with the RUN circuit, if it doesn't... GET ONE !!
Looking back at your pic in post #10. It looks like the bolt on the upper left of the starter has a Star washer on it, this is where the -12V heavy black wire from the main battery should connect. Star washers are used with electrical connections.
Aw hell, give me the make, model, year, SN of your motor in a PM and I'll see what I can find for you. Add the same info on the boat if you can.
(='_'=) reply :
hey!! sorry i hadnt been able to answer sooner, i was busy with other personal issues , which are solved now so i can continue the restoration....
anyways, in some spare time i have been making more progress, but until yesterday i was able to take some pics...
here is the switch. it has 4 bolts, but only 3 are used... i believe the one with the red wire says BAT, the one with the green wire says IGN, the empty one says ACC, and the one in the middle i dont remember what it says, maybe Start, since i assumed, and later verified with a multimeter, this wire only has power when i turn the key to crank...
now, in this picture there are 2 yellow wires marked with a red circle.... one of them is the one seen on the upper picture, the one on the switch.. the other one goes to the harness... with the multimeter, we managed to know that this other yellow wire is the one that feeds the starter... so, if i hook the two yellow wires together and turn the key, the starter will receive power... however, the 2 yellow wires have female connectors, so im not sure they were hooked directly... i think i can replace one of the connectors with a male, and match them, as i already know this will work.... however im not sure if im missing something....
and Traveler, the info i got from the plate on the motor reads:
Model 85ETLR77S
Serial number J4763396
the boat is a Kingfisher, i am assuming the motor and boat are from the same year, 1977 i get from the model number....
and no, my boat does not has a kill switch... what is the purpose of that?? unless it is someting very specialized, i think i can get something to work with what materials i can find locally....
thanx!!!
Nitrofreak reply :
Well This should be a lot of fun LOL !!
While Traveler is looking so will I, between the two of us we should be able to give you something that can help...I hope.
(='_'=) reply :
i just checked what a kill switch is, is the one that will stop the boat if you fall, right?? i didnt know they were used on bassboat, i had only seen them on jetskis... ill look for one and install it inline with the red wire, the one that feeds the switch, is that right??
and thanx Nitro!! i have been searching but couldnt find anything that i could use.... i found diagrams for some other boats, and i tried to use that info with some luck, but i still am not sure what am i missing....
Traveler2586 reply :
On 7/18/2012 at 10:41 PM, (= said:hey!! sorry i hadnt been able to answer sooner, i was busy with other personal issues , which are solved now so i can continue the restoration....
anyways, in some spare time i have been making more progress, but until yesterday i was able to take some pics...
here is the switch. it has 4 bolts, but only 3 are used... i believe the one with the red wire says BAT, the one with the green wire says IGN, the empty one says ACC, and the one in the middle i dont remember what it says, maybe Start, since i assumed, and later verified with a multimeter, this wire only has power when i turn the key to crank...
now, in this picture there are 2 yellow wires marked with a red circle.... one of them is the one seen on the upper picture, the one on the switch.. the other one goes to the harness... with the multimeter, we managed to know that this other yellow wire is the one that feeds the starter... so, if i hook the two yellow wires together and turn the key, the starter will receive power... however, the 2 yellow wires have female connectors, so im not sure they were hooked directly... i think i can replace one of the connectors with a male, and match them, as i already know this will work.... however im not sure if im missing something....
and Traveler, the info i got from the plate on the motor reads:
Model 85ETLR77S
Serial number J4763396
the boat is a Kingfisher, i am assuming the motor and boat are from the same year, 1977 i get from the model number....
What's the info on the engine?
Manufacture:
HP:
SN:
Traveler2586 reply :
On 7/18/2012 at 11:06 PM, (= said:i just checked what a kill switch is, is the one that will stop the boat if you fall, right?? YES - you should get one.
i didn't know they were used on bass boat, i had only seen them on jetskis... If you cross a wake wrong while water skying you could bounce out of the boat.
ill look for one and install it in-line with the red wire, the one that feeds the switch, is that right?? NO - install it in series with the IGN circuit on the green wire which should go to the distributer, that way it will only kill the engine and not your ACC circuit to your electronics.
It's good to see you've never hot-wired a car 
(='_'=) reply :
On 7/19/2012 at 2:25 AM, Traveler2586 said:What's the info on the engine?
Manufacture:
HP:
SN:
this is the info on the data plate i found on the motor:
Model: 85ETLR77S
Serial number: J4763396
its an 85HP Johnson... based on that info, i saw somewhere that it was 85HP (first 2 numbers of Model) and from 1977 (last 2 numbers)... i think the S is for Short shaft or something like that i remember reading once... the rest of the letters, i dont remember...
and no, i have not wired a car yet hahaha... and OK, ill look for one and wire to the IGN...
Traveler2586 reply :
On 7/19/2012 at 5:00 AM, (= said:this is the info on the data plate i found on the motor:
Model: 85ETLR77S
Serial number: J4763396
its an 85HP Johnson... based on that info, i saw somewhere that it was 85HP (first 2 numbers of Model) and from 1977 (last 2 numbers)... i think the S is for Short shaft or something like that i remember reading once... the rest of the letters, i don't remember...
and no, i have not wired a car yet hahaha... and OK, ill look for one and wire to the IGN...
OK, I'm looking for a wiring diagram; but so far all I'm getting is dead ends, they want you to buy their manuals, or the web site is a sucker trap. I'll also look for other years on either side of your's.
Question: did you remove the wiring harness completely at both ends? And,, does/did it go into the throttle control?
The two yellow wires could go to the neutral cut-out switch on the throttle control to prevent starting the engine while it's in gear.
Fishing Rhino reply :
I'm going to throw one more monkey wrench into this conversation. Can you depress your key into the switch a quarter inch or so?
If you can, that "extra" lead on the switch could be to activate the choke on the motor. You should have some way to activate the choke, be it pushing the key in or a separate switch.
Traveller is correct about the wiring of the kill switch. It should be in the ignition lead, not the wire from the battery. Even with the kill switch in the kill position, the starter can be activated an the motor will turn over, but will not start.
On my rig, when the key is turned on, a beep will sound to indicate the engine is ready to be started. If the beep is not heard, it means something is wrong. It could be the motor is not in neutral, or the kill switch is in the disabled position. It may indicate other problems as well, but those are the two I have experienced.
Your rig may not have the "beep, all is ok" feature.
(='_'=) reply :
thanx Traveler for your search!! i had the same problem though, it seems this boat is not as popular so there is not much info about it....
i didnt remove the harness completely... in fact, i just removed the key switch from the console, but i tried to not unhook any wire... apparently at one time something got unhooked by itself... and no, there are no wires going into the throttle control.... this control is very old it is still the one that has 2 shifting levers, one for Forward/Revers, and the other one for the speed.... but no wires come in and out of it...
and Rhino, there is a separate button to activate the choke... and it is working properly.... and no, no Beeping sound on this boat...
thanx!!
Traveler2586 reply :
On 7/19/2012 at 10:03 PM, (= said:.....................no, there are no wires going into the throttle control.... this control is very old it is still the one that has 2 shifting levers, one for Forward/Revers, and the other one for the speed.... but no wires come in and out of it...
OK Dan, that tells us you do not have a neutral cut-out switch on the throttle control to prevent starting the engine while it's in gear.
At this point I don't understand why the two yellow starter wires would have female connectors unless the went to a terminal block, or, in-line fuse block; but I don't know why they (the yellow wires) would.
Generally speaking, there should be a main fuse (20 or 30 amp) in series with a red 10 AWG +12v wire coming from the main cranking battery to a terminal block, or secondary fuse block under the dash someplace; that block would feed power to the key switch, and other switches such as the running lights, horn, bilge pump, etc. There should also be a black 10 AWG -12v wire coming from the main cranking battery to a terminal block that is used as a ground point for the same devices.
I did run across a wiring diagram for another motor that may offer a basic idea of the subject, I'll see if I can relocate it.
Cheers
Traveler2586 reply :
Dan, here are some diagrams I found that you may be able to deduce your wiring from, they are not for a 1977 but the wiring could be close. My belief is the two yellow wires went to a neutral switch; every drawing I reviewed for whatever year and/or hp has a neutral switch in the start circuit. Where is your start switch mounted?
Also, here is a color code chart: http://maxrules.com/fixomcwiringcodes.html
(='_'=) reply :
thanx for the diagrams!!
what do you mean by a "neutral Switch" ???
i will check the color coding, but i guess it wont be very helpful.... as i mentioned earlier somewhere, this boat was "fixed" before, by a boat mechanic in a small fishing town where spare parts were not available... so, you can see a red cable here, and trace it with the multimeter and find out the other end is blue, as if the mechanic didnt have a cable long enough and he had to use 2 cables of different color....
on the near future we plan on rewiring everythin, specially since any of the markers work, we already removed them from the console.... so we want to remove all the useless wiring, and make clean and safe electrical installation.... but that will have to wait.... we have to first make the motor run as it was before, and once we know everything is hooked correctly, we can begin removing useless wires and replacing old ones...
Traveler2586 reply :
On 7/20/2012 at 5:51 AM, (= said:thanx for the diagrams!!
what do you mean by a "neutral Switch" ???
i will check the color coding, but i guess it wont be very helpful.... as i mentioned earlier somewhere, this boat was "fixed" before, by a boat mechanic in a small fishing town where spare parts were not available... so, you can see a red cable here, and trace it with the multimeter and find out the other end is blue, as if the mechanic didnt have a cable long enough and he had to use 2 cables of different color....
A neutral switch is a safety device built into the gear shift system to prevent the engine from starting while in gear; it's required on all boats over a certain horse power.
Given the age and unknown history of you boat I think it's safe to say all bets are off concerning the wiring. So connect the two yellow wires together if that operates the starter. The diagrams should give you some idea of how things should be wired, and your ahead of the game in that you know the boat ran before you started. I think your friend that disconnected everything owes you some beers 
Fishing Rhino reply :
The neutral safety switch is probably a micro switch that "breaks" the ignition circuit when the control is out of the neutral position. I'm guessing its a micro switch because the neutral safety switch in the diagram appears to have a "plunger" on the right side that will complete the ignition circuit only when the engine is in neutral. Again, I guessing that when that pin is depressed by the control (shift/throttle) only when it is in the neutral position. Same thing as on your car. If it's an automatic it has to be in park, or maybe neutral for the engine to start. If you have a standard shift, the clutch must be depressed for the starter to crank the engine.
(='_'=) reply :
thanx!! well, since the throttle has no wiring attached to it, i guess we dont have a "neutral switch"...
so, yes, i think we will just connect the 2 yellow cables together and let it be.... later on, when we have the boat up and running again, and hopefully after catching a few fish out of it, i will take the task of removing all the wiring and rewire everything new... when that happens i will be asking for a lot of help, the diagrams provided will give us an idea, but im sure more questions will arise at that time... fortunately there are a lot of people that have been helping me, i hope they have the same good will in a couple of months!!!
Traveler2586 reply :
On 7/21/2012 at 3:47 AM, (= said:thanx!! well, since the throttle has no wiring attached to it, i guess we dont have a "neutral switch"...
so, yes, i think we will just connect the 2 yellow cables together and let it be.... later on, when we have the boat up and running again, and hopefully after catching a few fish out of it, i will take the task of removing all the wiring and rewire everything new... when that happens i will be asking for a lot of help, the diagrams provided will give us an idea, but im sure more questions will arise at that time... fortunately there are a lot of people that have been helping me, i hope they have the same good will in a couple of months!!!
We'll be here if you need us. As you've put so much time and effort into your boat I would suggest you order the correct Johnson manual for your motor before you start the rewiring, it will give you the correct wiring info and hopefully save you some frustration and electrical damage to your motor.
Good luck and good fishing.
Fishing Rhino reply :
It's possible the neutral safety switch is on the motor, somewhere along the shift linkage. It's possible some of the early electric start outboards didn't have that feature, but I cannot imagine that it took many years to correct that hazard.
I had a 1971, 60 hp Evinrude. It had to be in neutral to start, if memory serves. The key switch was on the single lever remote control.
Sam reply :
The guys writing above are the pros but I do have a suggestion to consider:
Is your emergency engine cut-off switch in the "on" or "off" position?
Something as simple as this can drive you crazy.
Traveler2586 reply :
On 7/21/2012 at 6:41 PM, Sam said:The guys writing above are the pros but .............
LOL, Sam I have some bottom land I'd like to sell you.
freebie reply :
sounds like you have a few things going on there. I will start with you ignition. you have the wrong switch for that motor. that motor harness has 6 wires in it. some may or may not be used. they go on the proper switch in the following manner. red wire goes to the B or + terminal, black wire goes to the M or - terminal, the black with yellow or white stripe goes to the big M terminal(this is usually a big round terminal that does not look like any of the others), the plain purple goes to the I or A teminal, the purple/white stripe goes to the C terminal, the yellow/red stripe goes to the S terminal, there may also be a gray and a brown wire in the harness also, the gray would be the signal wire for a tachometer and the brown wire would be signal for the overheat alarm. I hope this helps, more than happy to help with any other questions you may have.
BKeith reply :
If you have a 77 remote, I think freebie is right about the wrong switch. The 77 motor has CD ignition and must have a battery negative lug on the switch so you can turn the engine off once you get it started. Without it, the only way to shut it off is start pulling plug wires or chocking it down. The power packs have to be grounded out to shut if off, there are no electrical wires/cables you can disconnect to shut it off.
You need to get a schematic for that model remote/motor and follow the voltage. Make sure you have battery positive on the bat. terminal and that it's going through the switch to the starter terminal, then make sure it's going through the neutral start switch to the starter solenoid. The other side of the solenoid has to go to battery negative (ground), if not, it's not going to energize. If the remote has a kill switch, make sure it doesn't have you grounded out.
Traveler2586 reply :
On 7/20/2012 at 5:51 AM, (= said:i will check the color coding, but i guess it wont be very helpful.... as i mentioned earlier somewhere, this boat was "fixed" before, by a boat mechanic in a small fishing town where spare parts were not available... so, you can see a red cable here, and trace it with the multimeter and find out the other end is blue, as if the mechanic didn't have a cable long enough and he had to use 2 cables of different color....
As (='_'=) said above the boats electrical system has been reworked over the years... So all bets are off as to how things are wired; however, the boat did run with the current set up before the restoration work began.
BKeith reply :
Regarless of the switch and electrical system, it's a very basic problem. He's gotta get voltage to and through the switch to the Starter terminal of the switch when held in the start position and to the starter solenoid. The other side of the solenoid has to be grounded. The easy way to check that is; if the solenoid has voltage on both small terminals, it's not grounded. If there is no voltage on either small terminal, it's not getting from the batteries positive terminal, to the solenoid. Which is what the switch and wiring is suppose to do so just follow the voltage.
If he can't find the wire, just run another one from the switch to the solenoid.
Traveler2586 reply :
On 7/23/2012 at 9:54 AM, BKeith said:Regarless of the switch and electrical system, it's a very basic problem. He's gotta get voltage to and through the switch to the Starter terminal of the switch when held in the start position and to the starter solenoid. The other side of the solenoid has to be grounded. The easy way to check that is; if the solenoid has voltage on both small terminals, it's not grounded. If there is no voltage on either small terminal, it's not getting from the batteries positive terminal, to the solenoid. Which is what the switch and wiring is suppose to do so just follow the voltage.
Correct... he's gone over this......
(='_'=) post #19 "now, in this picture there are 2 yellow wires marked with a red circle.... one of them is the one seen on the upper picture, the one on the switch.. the other one goes to the harness... with the multimeter, we managed to know that this other yellow wire is the one that feeds the starter... so, if i hook the two yellow wires together and turn the key, the starter will receive power... however, the 2 yellow wires have female connectors, so im not sure they were hooked directly... i think i can replace one of the connectors with a male, and match them, as i already know this will work.... however im not sure if im missing something...."
BKeith reply :
My first guess would be they went through a neutral start switch in the remote. I would think that even if an idiot did the rewiring, he would have still run them through a neutral start switch of some sort on the shifter so someone would not accidently start it in gear. However, I have come across some pretty big idiots over the years. Like a neighbor that put gasoline in a washing machine to get oil out of some cloths he spilt it on. I suspect the people in the emergency room are still laughing about that one. I don't think I need to say what happened as soon as he turned the dial to turn it on.
Oh, and by the way, it shows me being a newbee, trust me, I'm a very long way from that and have a hellavalot of experience.
(='_'=) reply :
On 7/23/2012 at 9:33 AM, Traveler2586 said:As (='_'=) said above the boats electrical system has been reworked over the years... So all bets are off as to how things are wired; however, the boat did run with the current set up before the restoration work began.
and it is running again!!!
after reading all of this posts and looking at the motor once again, i did what i knew worked... i split the yellow wires and hooked them together... i couldnt find any switch, relay or anything where both of them could go, but i KNEW that if if i got current on one of the yellow wires, the starter would get energy, and i also knew when i turned the key energy would "come out" of the other yello wire.... so i just hooked them together, put some gasoline on the tank, hooked one of those devices you put on the garden hose.... and after 2 key turns, the motor started... i turned it off, and started it again at the first turn, without using the choke....
so, thanx for your help!!! i couldnt see what i was missing, but now it starts.... as Traveler said, this boat has been reworked by a "boat mechanic" who could "fix" the boat with whatever was available... so there is no way of knowing what he did....
however, now it is working properly.... hopefully i will put it in the water this weekend and do some fishing.... =)
Fishing Rhino reply :
Very good.
Traveler2586 reply :
On 7/26/2012 at 12:27 PM, (= said:and it is running again!!!...............................hopefully i will put it in the water this weekend and do some fishing.... =)
CONGRATULATIONS!!!
BKeith reply :
May I make a suggestion. If you haven't already checked, put in in gear, forward and reverse, and see if it starts. If not, you should be good to go, but if it starts in gear, you have a very dangerous operating condition. You don't have to forget but one time and start it in gear with the trottle pushed to hurt someone or wreck the boat.
(='_'=) reply :
On 7/27/2012 at 8:17 AM, BKeith said:May I make a suggestion. If you haven't already checked, put in in gear, forward and reverse, and see if it starts. If not, you should be good to go, but if it starts in gear, you have a very dangerous operating condition. You don't have to forget but one time and start it in gear with the trottle pushed to hurt someone or wreck the boat.
well, there is no switch going to the shifts, so, even though i have not tried it, im pretty sure it would start in Forward or Reverse.... however it is not as easy as you say, technically it can start, but since it would be moving the propeller with the Starter, it would be hard and maybe it doesnt start... pretty much like starting my jeep without stepping on the clutch, it could be done, but its hard for the starter....
i could wire a POKA-YOKE, where i had to push another button to start it, this way it could be like a reminder.... other than that, i dont know what else i could do besides getting another shifting unit ot however its called....
(='_'=) reply :
On 7/27/2012 at 8:04 AM, Traveler2586 said:CONGRATULATIONS!!!
thanx Traveler!!! hopefully this saturday we will be able to go and annoy some fish....
Fishing Rhino reply :
On 7/27/2012 at 12:22 PM, (= said:well, there is no switch going to the shifts, so, even though i have not tried it, im pretty sure it would start in Forward or Reverse.... however it is not as easy as you say, technically it can start, but since it would be moving the propeller with the Starter, it would be hard and maybe it doesnt start... pretty much like starting my jeep without stepping on the clutch, it could be done, but its hard for the starter....
i could wire a POKA-YOKE, where i had to push another button to start it, this way it could be like a reminder.... other than that, i dont know what else i could do besides getting another shifting unit ot however its called....
The starter should be deactivated unless the engine is in neutral. The switch could be in either the throttle/shift control, or at the linkage on the motor. The motor can easily start in gear. The propeller, due to the gearing and the relatively slow starting rpms, will provide very little resistance to the starter. Once upon a time motors had no reverse, or neutral for that matter. They were started in gear. Some required you to wrap the starter cord around a groove in the flywheel. Later models had recoil hand pull starters that automatically rewound the pull cord around the mechanism.
I had a four cylinder Mercury KG9 Thunderbolt 25 hp engine. It had a suicide throttle on the tiller handle. That is the type you squeeze and, if memory serves, a "lock" at the end of the tiller handle to hold the throttle in position (including wide open). No neutral. Start and go. It was possible to start that beast in the wide open position. It was strictly hand pull starting.
The gauge on the front is a fuel pressure gauge. The knob to the right is a pump to manually build up fuel pressure in the tank, not unlike the older OMC two hose fuel tanks.
GLADES reply :
Love the old Merc motors. I had a 57 Mercury MK20 (green paint) with the throttle on the tiller and a pull start. That motor was rock solid. I finally sold it in 1990. I wish I still had it. I used to rent a john boat out at Loxahatchee and mount the Merc. Very reliable.
I would replace the throttle box ASAP. You can get by with it for now, but it is really an unsafe condition.
(='_'=) reply :
thanx!! i will check if the switch is in the linkage somewhere, but i really doubt it, i have already replaced the lower unit, and to do so, i had to remove the links, and i didnt see any wires around it...
hopefuly tomorrow i will be able to take her to the water, and i will check if it can be started in gear...
Traveler2586 reply :
On 7/27/2012 at 7:42 PM, Fishing Rhino said:The starter should be deactivated unless the engine is in neutral. The switch could be in either the throttle/shift control, or at the linkage on the motor.
Look at post #29, top diagram, bottom center, next to the start solenoid is a safety switch. It's location on the drawing tells me this one is somewhere under the engine hood. But look at how it's wired, the solenoid will not function unless the switch is in the correct position. You may have something like this on your motor.
(='_'=) reply :
On 7/28/2012 at 4:23 AM, Traveler2586 said:Look at post #29, top diagram, bottom center, next to the start solenoid is a safety switch. It's location on the drawing tells me this one is somewhere under the engine hood. But look at how it's wired, the solenoid will not function unless the switch is in the correct position. You may have something like this on your motor.
well, i have not looked at something like that in my motor, but i will check....
hopefully today we will be able to take her to the lake, and then i will check if it starts on the Forward position...
related Bass Boats Canoes Kayaks topic
previous topic
most viewed Bass Boats Canoes Kayaks topic
© 2024 - fishing.qciss.net. All Rights Reserved.