83 Tracker fix'r'up 2024

Dobi reply :

Not sure if this is the right forum or not, I apologize in advance if not.

I did a write-up like this to document when I built my toyota rock-crawler last year, thought I would do the same here by documenting what I'm doing to the Twacker

Bought this last August

and its in less then perfect shape..

Been fishing with a buddy with a nice triton with a 150h... been on his boat more then mine.. Now local tourneys are starting and he has an old pal he enters those tourneys with.. Now I'm back to the old tracker.

I know with our first child coming that a boat like that is not in my near future. However, putting a couple hundred here and there into the tracker is possible.

I started last night and well... Here are my plans. My questions will come next.

I've started tearing into it and noticed some expanded foam....

and some foam slots:

My question is, can these foam slats be taken out. I want to get the bottom inside of the boat and about 4" up the side sprayed with a thin coat of Rhino-line type substance (knock off brand that a buddy is a carrier of) thinking this will seal up some rivets that are leaking a little bit and will deaden ALOT of noise as well. which I'm thinking that foam in the bottom can be placed back in and compressed down when I redo the floor.. just on top of the rhino lining.

As you can see, the expanded foam under the bow is in the way of my future rodbox and storage containers....

So what are your thoughts on my plans and dilema with the foam.

I plan to get this cleaned out tonight and sprayed tomorow, then build the bow wed with the back of the boat tba.

Here's some more tear-down pics...

Dobi reply :

** Will edit later for future pictures.

Madhouse27 reply :

Dobi, thanks for posting your project. This should be fun to watch.

Dobi reply :

well... looking at a couple other folks buildups here (LBH I think and someone elses' gray one), I'm gonna take a little more time on it to make it worthy of being posted here...

Question for ya'll...

The back of the boat is filled with that expanding foam just like the front.. I'm gonna have to rip that stuff out to rhino line the inside of it.. Do I need to spray more in there or is that a last chance of floating after the boat has already submerged??

KU_Bassmaster. reply :

That boat brings back some memories. That's the exact boat that I fell inlove with bass fishing in. I can't wait to see the progress.

ominousone reply :

how about rhino lining the bottom of the boat so that way if you scrape up against rocks, stumps, or whathaveyou you won't hurt the bottom more.

ominousone reply :

I was thinking of fixing up an old aluminum some day and I picked up a how to guide from www.myjonboat.com It seems pretty informative and may give you some ideas or hints to ease that you hadn't thought of yourself. good luck, and please post pics as you go

Nick B reply :

Awesome project Dobi. I would like to do somethings to my boat, but dont want to give up access to it for that long, that may be a winter time project for me.

Live.2.Fish reply :

Sweet Project! Is that a 17ft tracker? If it is that is the exact same boat I just go about 4 months ago. The previous owner had redone everything a lot what you are going to do. Tons of storage with a rod locker that will hold a 7'6" rod. Can't wait to see what it looks like when you done with it.

Dobi reply :

yup. 17ft with a 50hp US Marine force on it.

Live.2.Fish reply :

That is awesome! I've the the 50hp Merc. Good luck with the project and have fun with it.

Rattlinrogue reply :

That should be a sweet bassin' machine when ya get finished!Can't wait to check out your progress.

Dobi reply :

More tear down...

Well, due to not wanting to mess anything up structurally and less weight, instead of ripping the whole backend off, I'm going to just enlarge the existing boxes and enlarge the back area where the gas tank and battery box are to hold a 10+ gallon fiberglass tank.

This way I can just put 1/4 inch plywood across and reinforce where needed.

Madhouse27 reply :

Wow, you are ripping and tearing. This is usually the point in the project that wives start talking about divorce ;D

Dobi reply :

Quote
Wow, you are ripping and tearing. This is usually the point in the project that wives start talking about divorce ;D

I think she's actually semi-tickled because being here in the carport and not out on a lake or wrench'n / wheel'n my rock crawler..

Little does she know that I will more then make up for lost lake time.. muwahahahaha

burleytog reply :

That looks like a fun little project. Look forward to seeing the completion.

Dobi reply :

When I started this, I wanted it to be my own little "Overhaulin" or "Monster Garage" type deal and have it done in a week.. .but realization is that they have 5-10 guys working d**n near 24hrs a day for 7 days... I'm by myself and can only work on it after 5:30 pm due to work. haha

oh well...

Skwerl reply :

The best part is when it's done, you'll know exactly what you got and you will also be more likely to keep up on little problems in the future instead of letting them go. I suspect you'll be enjoying that bote for many years to come.

alhuff reply :

Dobi, did ya get the foam out? i would think that it would be able to be worked out pretty easy. if not you could always replace it, not sure how much the expandable foam would run ya.

Good luck....

Alfred

Dobi reply :

Quote
Dobi, did ya get the foam out? i would think that it would be able to be worked out pretty easy. if not you could always replace it, not sure how much the expandable foam would run ya.
Good luck....

Alfred

yea, I got it all up. Those foam like things in the bottom.. WATER LOGGED ... lemme tell ya, they ripped thru one of those heavy duty black garbage bags. I had to double bag it..

I'm thinkin the replacing of aluminium with wood is still going to be lighter then those.

The expanded foam, I just took a big old handsaw thru it in the chunks I wanted out...

stimpy17 reply :

LOL! I had a "86" Good boat. With a 40 Merc on the back and walk thru front bow(no raised deck)but 2 nice storage boxes. My one gripe was even with the mod. "V" bow waves and chop were hard on the boat and driver.

Dobi reply :

Building the deck... got the 2 pieces cut out to perfection.. going to work on supports tomorow night..

G3 Fan reply :

Dobi,

I am having fun watching the prgression of your project. It looks like your deck plywood is pressure treated. You need to check the stamp on the plywood to see what chemicals were used to treat it. The pressure treaters caved to the whiners of the world and changed the chemicals they use to treat wood. The old stuff would be marked CCA which contained arsenic which had everyone so freaked out. The new stuff is either ACQ or CBA-A or CA-B this new stuff is ultra corrosive. Fasteners have to be hot dip galvanized or stainless steel. The new products are more corrosive because the copper content was increased by as much as 5 times which is also why the stuff is expensive.

There is also a newer Borate based treating processes whihc is supposed to be non-corrosive.

I would suggest keeping the plywood from coming into direct contact with the aluminum of your boat and using stainless steel hardware. I don't know if painting the plywood would be enough to seal it or not, fiberglass resin may work better.

I'd hate to see that boat give you problems in a year or two.

Madhouse27 reply :

Nice to see some Miller Lite being enjoyed during the project. We're having a good time following along.

Dobi reply :

G3fan - I've heard that from some folks, other folks told me that's just hearsay.. Do you know where can I get definitive info on this. I was thinking about painting it with that Krylon (correction, I meant to say that oil based sealer/paint Kilz) before carpetting it if that was true.. I am very concerned about that though.

G3 Fan reply :

I am in the building industry and we had to sit through a lot of training a few years back when CCA was being phased out. We had to change our inventory of fastners etc. One of the classes I went to was at Simpson Strong Tie they make most of the fasteners used in residential construction. This link will take you to a page talking about barriers to use between framing material and fasteners http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/barriersfaqs_print.html.

The one thing I don't know is chemistry, The treated wood is so corrosive because of high levels of copper which is a non-ferrous metal. Alumninum is also a non-ferrous metal I don't know if two non-ferrous metals will "play nice" with eachother. In my industry a lot of flashing metal is made of aluminum and we have been told to use copper or vinyl if the flashing will be in contact with treated wood. That beinf said the aluminum used for flashing is very thin.

I will try to ask some of our suppliers to see if they can shed more light on this, I'll also check out the web.

This link is to a general article about wood preservatives http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00127.asp

This link discusses the corrosive nature of treated and how to protect fasteners http://www.toolbase.org/tertiaryT.asp?DocumentID=4029&CategoryID=1869

Here is a clip from that last website in regards to painting steel

Impermeable covering. Covering steel with an impermeable coating, such as paint, can provide a mechanical barrier between steel and corrosive agents. However, this method is vulnerable to imperfections in the coating and is not recommended for long-term outdoor exposure of structural connections.

Like I said earlier everything I find refers to steel. I'll keep looking

G3 Fan reply :

Dobi,

I found this site, the brown box on the right quotes the International Residential Code http://www.raisedfloorliving.com/ptwproducts.shtml. Here is a quote from the IRC where it mentions aluminum.

Do not use standard carbon-steel or aluminum products in direct contact with pressure-treated wood. In addition, electroplated galvanized metal products generally have a thinner layer of protection compared to hot-dip galvanized and are typically not accepted by the building codes for use in exterior applications. Spacers or other physical barriers are necessary to prevent direct contact from treated wood when aluminum or electroplated products are used, such as flashing or termite shields. Such barriers should provide complete separation and remain intact for the intended service life of the metal.

After reading this it dawned on me that maybe we are over-thinking this. What if you cover the top of your aluminum frame and anywhere else the plywood would come into contact with aluminum with something like that sound stop stuff they use in cars? I don't know for sure wat the name is but it is a few MM thick and has an adhesive back. They sell it at car stereo shops you could cut it into thin strips. I'm surethere are other products that would work as well, I think having an adhesive back would make installation easier.

As long as you use stainless steel hardware you should be good to go.

Another benefit the barrier would provide would be to eliminate any squeaks between the plywood and frame.

G3 Fan reply :

Dobi,

I found one more site http://www.wolmanizedwood.com/fasteners.shtml

Recommended Hardware

Hot-dipped galvanized fasteners (meeting ASTM A 153) and connectors (ASTM A 653 Class G185 sheet), or better, are recommended for protection against the moisture often present where treated wood is usually used. For Permanent Wood Foundations, use 304 or 316 stainless steel. Aluminum should not be used in direct contact with this wood.*

For indoor applications, while galvanized fasteners are preferable, the use of non-galvanized nails or screws of sizes and types approved by the Model Code is acceptable when attaching joists, studs, or other framing to Wolmanized® sill plate, provided the wood will remain dry in service, protected from weather and water. Likewise, the use of standard galvanized strapping, anchor plates, or mild steel anchor bolts ½ diameter and larger is acceptable for fastening Wolmanized wood to foundations, provided that the wood will remain dry in service, protected from the weather and water.

*Aluminum can be used when a protective barrier prevents direct contact between the aluminum and the wood. Direct contact, in the presence of moisture, will create a galvanic corrosion cell between the materials. The barrier may be heavy plastic sheeting, rubber, vinyl, asphalt roofing paper, or even a good industrial coating. The barrier should provide complete separation and remain intact for the period of service of the aluminum.

Additional information on the corrosion of fasteners and connectors used with alternative preservative treated wood.

Hardware manufacturers

Travlin_Man reply :

G-3 is right on with the p.t. corrosion info. I am a contractor and ICC certified Commercial Building Inspector. Be glad for the forum saving you from a lot of future grief.

Dobi reply :

Thanks!!

That seems to be proof there. Please don't think I was doubting you. You just get so much conflicting information here on the net and through word of mouth. I'm using stainless L brackets and hinges for everything. I've already put 1 good coat of primer/sealer on the deck, I'll put a couple more as the night goes on. I'm mocking up the frame now. I'll have some pictures to post tonight.

G3 Fan reply :

I never felt you were doubting me and I am glad to help in any way I can.

Can't wait to see the next batch of pictures.

Dobi reply :

langs15 reply :

This looks REALLY nice!!! My friends dad used to have boat like this, he had carpet on the raised parts. Good lcuk with the rest!!!

Dobi reply :

This is still all mocking up...

I also added some extra supports as seen in red.

I haven't read everything yet.. I'm still researching if I cover all the wood with that oil based kilz primer/paint, will stop chemicals in the pressure treated wood.

G3fan - Do you know off the top of your head?

Travlin_Man reply :

Please read the part about " protective barrier" . Looking at the pictures of all your hard and apparently careful work , it seems that the p.t. 2x4's are making direct contact with the aluminum sides and bottom in several places.

abelfisher reply :

Great project. keep up the good work and keeep the picturs coming. You might want to plan ahead for wiring etc by using plastice conduit so it is easy to access and pull wires in the future. The stuff is cheap and light. Will the heads of the screws you've used intefere with being able to lay the platform plywood sheets down flat? Maybe use some beveled heads?? Great project. Please keep the pictures coming.

Dobi reply :

Its starting to come together now...

G3 Fan reply :

Dobi,

Sorry I didn't get back to you soon enough, I see you went ahead and painted the under carriage. I think you will be protected, if you are going to store the boat outside I would put a mooring cover on it to try and help keep it dry.

Keep up the good work

Dobi reply :

yea, it will be stored outside, I found a nice cover for about $45 at walmart and I've got tons of bungee cords for holding it down...

I was running into support issues for the rodbox and the ability to support my 270 pound body. I ended up putting 2 sheets of plywood together and having it lay on the deck. but it looks good and I know weight will definately not be an issue.

I've got a 420x420 fishfinder for the frong and a 320x320 for the back.

Dobi reply :

Well, I can officially say that my carpetting skills are less then stellar, but the front deck is definately sturdy I like it alot. I just have to put the seat pole in and wire electronics now.

I cut down the old steering column to fit my needs and raised it up just where I wanted it. Before I secure it though, I need to know how how to get the steering cable loose, either from the steering wheel or from the motor so I can run that pain in the *** thick cable thru the front deck where the column is and then under the back deck... I'll be google'n that tonight I reckon.

Here's some pics of it coming together.

This is definately a project. I was not planning on taking this long, I screwed up and took it to a buddies house that is a carpenter but he was never around to unlock his shop so I hadn't gotten much done. I hope to have it completed by the end of the week now though.

langs15 reply :

very nice!!!!!

Dobi reply :

Thinking about putting this up for sale, what do ya'll think would be a fair price?

It's got a small leak from worn out rivets (turn on the bilge for about 2-3 minutes every hour or whenever I move to another spot)

2 LCR's (1 bottom line 5" & 1 4" eagle)

50lb 12/24 motorguide trolling motor

50hp force motor (cranks EVERY time)

2 batteries (1 can't remember brand deep cycle & 1 blue top optima)

I was thinking $3k obo

trackernoleak reply :

I was thinking about doing something similar to what you did.

But I was going to have my rod locker down the center so I can leave the two front flotation foams in place. I would have 6 2" pvc pipes to hold the rods and keep things from getting tangled, and an access door next to the console. That will give me ample storage up front on either side and a huge front deck.

I really liked the look of the console when you had it covered with carpet, looked real sharp. I think I will incorporate that into my design as well.

Thanks for the idea.

h2oMonkey reply :

HI i was just wondering if you had any extra Pics of the interior. Im intersted in how you did the sides close to the console. thanks

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83 Tracker fix'r'up 2024

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