I just got a Tracker 1448 MVX Grizzly with trailer, planning to build it up this winter as a fishing platform for my area lakes (~1000 acres) targeting panfish, smallmouth and largemouth. Looked at a Pro 160/170, so great but just too much boat and features for me and my needs (purely recreational). The boat isn't a lot of length and heft but I like to keep things small and simple. Motor will be a 1976 Evinrude 15hp 2-stroke from my previous boat, and plan to add trolling motor, finder, seats, bimini top, rod & beverage holders, lighting, etc. Seeking advice, suggestions, opinions etc from anyone who's customized a similar Grizzly.
14' length 48" bottom is plenty boat for customizing!
I'm running a 16' 52" Alweld ????
Like what you've done with the cooler. Is that your livewell, or for your lunch?
This is relevant to my interests. I have a 2006 Pro 170, and I am thinking about getting rid of it for a 1648 grizzly. I look forward to seeing your results.
Very clean layout Catt. Interesting rear seat pedestal set up, allows you to move over to run the tiller outboard and move to the center for partner to fish. The bilge pump is another good idea.
Tom
On 11/19/2017 at 10:35 PM, Fishing Rhino said:Like what you've done with the cooler. Is that your livewell, or for your lunch?
Both ????
On 11/20/2017 at 1:45 AM, WRB said:Very clean layout Catt. Interesting rear seat pedestal set up, allows you to move over to run the tiller outboard and move to the center for partner to fish. The bilge pump is another good idea.
Tom
No bilge pump...water separator
The pedestal layout is 3 across
The gas tank is no longer under the back seat, to hard to fill up. Battery is under the front deck.
Water separator for your gasoline?
Tom
On 11/20/2017 at 2:03 AM, WRB said:Water separators?
Tom
Interesting. We used separators for diesel fuel on the ocean boat, never used one for gasoline, another good idea.
Tom
On 11/20/2017 at 2:09 AM, Catt said:
I'm new to engines. Is this to protect your engine in case a marina is selling watered gasoline?
On 11/20/2017 at 2:42 AM, ClackerBuzz said:I'm new to engines. Is this to protect your engine in case a marina is selling watered gasoline?
Some us fish areas which are very far from the urban areas & getting water is gas is a high possibility!
@Catt you run on Toledo and Rayburn with that? No problems on the big water?
Looking forward to seeing this build. I’m in the market for a boat after the first of the year and haven’t decided whether I want a big one or a smaller one like these!
On 11/20/2017 at 6:29 AM, Chris_97TJ said:@Catt you run on Toledo and Rayburn with that? No problems on the big water?
Looking forward to seeing this build. I’m in the market for a boat after the first of the year and haven’t decided whether I want a big one or a smaller one like these!
I've fished & won tournaments out Jon boats.
I know every public & some private boat launchs on both lakes.
I don't fish the main lake in these boats if weather is bad ????
On 11/20/2017 at 2:15 AM, WRB said:Interesting. We used separators for diesel fuel on the ocean boat, never used one for gasoline, another good idea.
Tom
While most would not think so, water in the fuel can cause much more damage to a diesel engine. It can blow the tips off the injectors. Funny thing is, water is thinner than diesel fuel and you'd think it would pass through an injector easier than diesel fuel. But it doesn't.
It may cause a gas engine to sputter and puke, but one drop of water will not kill a gasoline engine.
Another interesting bit of trivia. Run a gasoline engine out of fuel, and nothing happens. Run a diesel out of fuel and many things, all bad, maybe disastrous can occur. The reason is that diesel fuel serves as a lubricant for various engine components including injectors. Run out of fuel and you can damage the fuel pump, injectors, (by scouring the moving parts), along with other components between the fuel tank and the injectors.
Diesel engines, while tough and durable, are also quite fragile.
"Aside from the issues caused from air in the system, I've seen injectors seize when they have been run dry.
Because diesel injectors have fine moving parts they use the diesel fuel as a lubricant. So when u remove the lubricant from metal-on-metal components they seize."
@Fishing Rhino The reasons for a fuel/water separator is not only am I buying fuel in remote places but I'm running my boat so far back in marshes & swamps a cell phone is useless.
Enough water in your tank will stop it & keep it from starting. A trolling motor aint gonna get you far & I'm to old to push pole!
Been there...do that...aint going back! ????
On 11/20/2017 at 11:03 AM, Catt said:@Fishing Rhino The reasons for a fuel/water separator is not only am I buying fuel in remote places but I'm running my boat so far back in marshes & swamps a cell phone is useless.
Enough water in your tank will stop it & keep it from starting. A trolling motor aint gonna get you far & I'm to old to push pole!
Been there...do that...aint going back! ????
I wasn't saying that a fuel/water separator is not a good thing. I had one on my first gas powered lobsterboat for the very reasons you mentioned. That boat was old when I bought it. Had a galvanized 75 gallon fuel tank in the stern of the boat. Only the outside of the tank was galvanized. It also had a small fuel filter and water separator. A couple of days of sloppy weather were enough to test the capacity of the filter to handle the rusty sediment in the tank that got stirred up. I'm not a fan of galvanized anything on a salt water boat. Galvanizing is a zinc coating. Zinc is used in making sacrificial zincs to prevent electrolysis. They were installed on the hull, the rudder, propeller shaft etc. to prevent those boat parts from being degraded.
We always carried spare fuel filters in the boat. I upgraded the filter to one about size of a half gallon milk bottle.
When I was a kid, we had a small boat on the river. It was made with steel fastenings. When they started rusting, I replaced them with brass. Bad move. Very bad move. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. Galvanic action and electrolysis ate up the zinc in those brass fastenings in a few weeks. They would literally crumble.
Went to bronze, and never looked back.
On 11/20/2017 at 11:03 AM, Catt said:@Fishing Rhino The reasons for a fuel/water separator is not only am I buying fuel in remote places but I'm running my boat so far back in marshes & swamps a cell phone is useless.
Enough water in your tank will stop it & keep it from starting. A trolling motor aint gonna get you far & I'm to old to push pole!
Been there...do that...aint going back! ????
Perfect solution for the problem. Metal gas tanks tend to condensate water with temperature changes, both the gasoline supply tanks and the boats tank. Fiberglass tanks tend to condensate less, but where the gasoline is stored and you purchase may have water in the tank. I am seriously considering adding a separator, it makes good sense and cheap insurance.
Tom
https://youtu.be/gREdG2sV5nQ
I've been watching this guy's videos and others similar and want to get started on my jon this winter also. Mine is a 1542 Tracker topper.
I help setup 3-4 Jon boats a year, we layout everything in aluminum, & then have it welded.
I see a lot of guys build the out of wood which is fine but aluminum & welding is lighter.
With small outboards (50hp & less) weight is critical as is setting everything up properly. After all alterations are done the outboard is meticulously installed. With the boat/trailer level I draw a vertical level line dead center of the transom. The proper height of the outboard on the transom is figured, the holes are drilled, & bolts are installed wet.
On 11/20/2017 at 11:03 AM, Catt said:@Fishing Rhino The reasons for a fuel/water separator is not only am I buying fuel in remote places but I'm running my boat so far back in marshes & swamps a cell phone is useless.
Enough water in your tank will stop it & keep it from starting. A trolling motor aint gonna get you far & I'm to old to push pole!
Been there...do that...aint going back! ????
Installed one on my rig 3 years ago and it has really helped.
On 11/19/2017 at 9:54 AM, Catt said:14' length 48" bottom is plenty boat for customizing!
I'm running a 16' 52" Alweld ????
Already some great ideas here, thanks for posting. I assume you can move the seats among all base locations? I like the idea of sharing one seat as both an "underway" seat and a pedestal seat. Saves on half the cost of seats.
On 11/20/2017 at 1:58 AM, Catt said:
Both ????
No bilge pump...water separator
The pedestal layout is 3 across
The gas tank is no longer under the back seat, to hard to fill up. Battery is under the front deck.
Planning to run a pull start tiller motor, plan to put battery (for trolling motor) up front, under deck as you do, for better balance.
On 11/20/2017 at 6:29 AM, Chris_97TJ said:@Catt you run on Toledo and Rayburn with that? No problems on the big water?
Looking forward to seeing this build. I’m in the market for a boat after the first of the year and haven’t decided whether I want a big one or a smaller one like these!
I have to admit I'm not one of these people who does an amazing youtube-worthy jon to bass boat conversion; that's not what I'm aiming for. I discovered fresh water boating and fishing only a few months ago, using a very cheap old boat/trailer/motor combo. Now that I know I'm hooked, just want something more fishing oriented. But at this stage I definitely value small, nimble, simple instead of larger. Hoping I can build out a minimalist 1448 and will be happy to share results.
What brand new ~15-25 hp motor would you buy for a 14' Tracker Grizzly, for recreational fishing large/smallmouth/panfish on a 1000 ac max lake?
First on my list is deciding on the motor for the new Tracker 1448 MVX Grizzly (rated 25 hp max).
Currently have a 1976 Evinrude 15 hp 2-stroke. Pros, runs strong and reliably, and at top speed of 14 mph pushes the '66 aluminum Starcraft across the ~1000 ac home lake in decent time. Cons, it's 40+ years old and me at 50 y.o. I can tinker but really want to spend more time fishing and less time maintaining motors, so considering a new one for the new Grizzly to last the next ~15-20 years without touching it aside from basic maintenance.
I realize that only I can decide but if you had the means, what brand new motor would you buy for the 1448, or would you just stick with the older? Two stroke vs four? Main factors for me are simplicity, low maintenance and light weight. I have no problem with basic maintenance (mixing oil/gas, changing plugs or gear oil, replacing seals, water pump, etc) but if it comes to a low-end teardown/rebuild then no, that's when I'd rather be fishing. Purpose of the motor would be getting to the fishing spot and shutting it down and using the trolling motor, no need for go-fast on big lakes.
Opinions? What make and model would top your list?
Honda builds the Mercury, Tohatsu, & Suzuki
Good to know, Catt.
I see Evinrude makes a 15 hp motor in both kicker and portable classes. What's the diff between the two? Are there tradeoffs in torque, speed control, etc.? Any reason to not use a kicker or portable as primary power for a boat this small and light (14' Grizzly)?
On 11/21/2017 at 8:57 AM, haggard said:I have to admit I'm not one of these people who does an amazing youtube-worthy jon to bass boat conversion; that's not what I'm aiming for. I discovered fresh water boating and fishing only a few months ago, using a very cheap old boat/trailer/motor combo. Now that I know I'm hooked, just want something more fishing oriented. But at this stage I definitely value small, nimble, simple instead of larger. Hoping I can build out a minimalist 1448 and will be happy to share results.
im similar to you although ive been fishing since I was a kid ( im 48 now) but I don't fish huge waters and don't see any reason to spend 60k on a boat just to catch some fish and throw them back.i bought a grizzly 1656 with a 25hp fourstroke mercury a couple years ago. with the way the decks are in those boats you don't really need to do much. I put a bow mount and sonar on the front deck, did a little wiring for those and bow and stern lights.bought some side mount rod holders from bass pro carpeted the decks and that's about it.i have about 6k in the whole thing and I fish anywhere I need to no problem. low cost low maintenance and easy for me to launch and put away in the garage by myself.
On 11/21/2017 at 8:20 PM, haggard said:Good to know, Catt.
I see Evinrude makes a 15 hp motor in both kicker and portable classes. What's the diff between the two? Are there tradeoffs in torque, speed control, etc.? Any reason to not use a kicker or portable as primary power for a boat this small and light (14' Grizzly)?
15 HP high output kicker 35.2 cu in
15 HP portable 21.41 cu in
Hi Haggard,
Looks good, great boats! I picked up a 1548 about a month ago and love it. Look forward to seeing your mods.
On 11/21/2017 at 9:00 PM, Catt said:
15 HP high output kicker 35.2 cu in
15 HP portable 21.41 cu in
Kicker also weighs 70lbs more and runs at a different rpm range and has power trim. Id go with the standard 15hp
On 11/22/2017 at 8:58 PM, slonezp said:Kicker also weighs 70lbs more and runs at a different rpm range and has power trim. Id go with the standard 15hp
Personally I wouldn't go smaller that a 25 HP ????
On 11/22/2017 at 9:26 PM, Catt said:
Personally I wouldn't go smaller that a 25 HP ????
There's already too many speed demons on the water. We dont need another
Tempted to take the 1976 Evinrude 15 2-stroke from my old boat and move it to the 1448 Grizzly. It's connected to steering cables and has no tiller so there's some work to do (and wouldn't be trivial to put back) but it sure is cheaper than a new motor, and the old boat won't see much use once I get the 1448 on the water. The Evinrude runs great. The transom height on the 1448 is 18.25 inches (not measured directly against the transom because it's angled; rather, measured straight down). If I measured the motor shaft correctly, from underside of mounting bracket to the cavitation plate, it's 17.25 in.
This is odd because as far as I can tell the standard is about 15" or about 20" so both my motor and the 1448 fall right inbetween.
Based on the measurements does it look like the motor & 1448 would work? Even if the shaft is a bit short, could I just run the boat slow enough to not go on plane? My lake's not giant, and 14 mph top speed has been fine for me so far.
It's my understanding there are 2 shaft lengths & 2 transom heights...15" or 20".
My guess your's is a 20"
My first priority in outboard motor selection is dependability, everything else is lagniappe.
Ya motor is paid for & dependable...roll with it ????
On 11/24/2017 at 11:53 PM, Catt said:It's my understanding there are 2 shaft lengths & 2 transom heights...15" or 20".
My guess your's is a 20"
My first priority in outboard motor selection is dependability, everything else is lagniappe.
Ya motor is paid for & dependable...roll with it ????
That's my preference. Yes, by dumb luck, ended up with a cheap and (so far) reliable motor and today took the first step in decommissioning the old boat by moving its two seats to the new one. The motor will follow and will hopefully fit. Saddens me to strip the two seats and motor from my first boat because the boat (16' aluminum Starcraft, think it's a 1966 Jupiter, is still in great shape) that's the setup that let me discover boating and fishing; it's been only one season. What a great first season.
If anyone's got a tiller handle from a 15604 Evinrude 15hp I could use it.
@haggard maybe I missed it but what was wrong with the StarCraft? Or what is it that you like better about the 1448?
On 11/26/2017 at 5:35 AM, IndianaOutdoors said:@haggard maybe I missed it but what was wrong with the StarCraft? Or what is it that you like better about the 1448?
Great question. Simply put, I bought the Starcraft on a whim; it was cheap ($1K) and complete (boat, motor, trailer) and it taught me a lot in the first year: how to boat, how to fish, but now that I know I'm committed (hooked), I want something tuned more towards fishing. It let me test the waters, if you will.
The 1448 is shorter without being too short, more manageable in terms of loading and launching, gives me a casting deck at the bow (can't stand on the Starcraft bow), lets me get shallow with a trolling motor, is more nimble, and is set up for two pedestal seats out of the gate (I'm using the seats from the Starcraft, and bought two posts). The 1448 has a mod V hull which should allow more shallow access as opposed to the deep V on the Starcraft, better suited for fishing in the shallows while still being reasonably good in the home lake when weather kicks up. Didn't want to go with a flat bottom jon because the chop can get choppy, and I'd also have to build up the casting deck.
Switching over to the 1448 didn't break the bank either. It's a relatively cheap boat. Using the two seats and 15hp motor from the Starcraft helps. What I'll miss about the Starcraft is being in the boat as opposed to being on the boat (with the 1448); the windscreen; the steering wheel; the room to wander about inside the boat (the 1448 gives you a 53" x 48" tub). With the limited space in the 1448 a steering console would take up too much valuable space so tiller control it is.
There will be tradeoffs for sure, but as much as I love the Starcraft, I'm going to make this 1448 work, no turning back.
Insert other media
You'll love the 1448 like you said more of a bass boat functionality.casting deck trolling motor etc.as far as your outboard if it's dependable and fits I'd run it. That's my #1 concern .your not racing ,your waters aren't huge.you can always get bigger motor later if you feel you need it.
You may consider doing a stick steer setup if you don't find a tiller handle
Unhooked the motor and put it on the 1448, easier than I thought, can be put back pretty easily if needed. But looks like a good fit on the 1448, with cavitation plate only about 1.5" above the bottom of the transom. Today's project is restringing the pull rope. Looks like tiller handles are readily available just ridiculously priced. IndianaOutdoors yes stick steer is an option, will keep that in mind.
Height looks ok to me. As long as you can get it trimmed out appropriately without cavitation. If it will get up on plane keep an eye on the pee hole just to make sure it's getting water. Just out of curiosity what does it currently have for throttle control?
On 11/27/2017 at 1:14 AM, IndianaOutdoors said:Height looks ok to me. As long as you can get it trimmed out appropriately without cavitation. If it will get up on plane keep an eye on the pee hole just to make sure it's getting water. Just out of curiosity what does it currently have for throttle control?
Previous owner had removed the tiller and converted throttle control to a cable going to a typical throttle & shift control up fropnt near the steering wheel. At first I thought it was a homebrew job but looks like it was probably an Evinrude "remote control" kit which included a throttle lever attaching inside the powerhead, a bracket for connecting the steering cables and relocating the engine stop button.
What's the purpose of these three blockoff plates at the bow? I haven't removed them yet. Are they just used for accessing the underside of the bow area so you can mount nav lights, a finder or a trolling motor? They're held in with rivets, which I assume would be drilled out and replaced with screws.
On 12/19/2017 at 9:11 AM, haggard said:What's the purpose of these three blockoff plates at the bow? I haven't removed them yet. Are they just used for accessing the underside of the bow area so you can mount nav lights, a finder or a trolling motor? They're held in with rivets, which I assume would be drilled out and replaced with screws.
I finally drilled out the rivets and removed the plates. Underneath is empty space, allowing easy access to the underside of the foremost portions of the bow. For example you could mount a trolling motor and and have easy access to the nuts on the underside of the bow. Inside the holes, looking back towards the stern, you can see the expanding foam that was blown in at the factory. From these holes there is a passageway sternward, so you can run wires etc. to the storage cavity just forward of the main "well" at the center of the boat (cavity is directly underneath the pedestal seat mount shown in the pic).