Triton 2024
Ghostshad reply :
My boats has not been out in a few years,i put gas stabilizer in it.I need to get it ready for spring fishing,i think its almost full of gas about 50 gallon,what would you suggest i need to do to get my boat ready for the water and the spawn? My motor is a Johnson 225 Hp God Bless Happy Birthday to or Lord and Savior Jesus Christ
Hi Salenity reply :
Does the gas smell bad?
cyclops2 reply :
Year ? Carb or FI ? Ethanol or not Ethanol gas in it ? I would NOT NOT try to start it at all with several years old gas..........Octane could be dangerously low by now. Low Octane WILL cause engine damage at some combinations of loads & RPMs. NOT worth the risk.
I would buy a new 6 gallon tank & the right hose connectors to connect it to your engine . Change ALL FUEL & WATER SEPERATING FILTERS on the boat. Including any ON THE ENGINE .
Buy & install a INLINE FILTER BIG ENOUGH FOR YOUR ENGINE to be installed in the 6 gallon setup. Cut the fuel line between the tank & the squeeze bulb. That way the installed filter stops Crap from the 6 gallon tank from causing the squeeze bulb to stop working.
Hook up everything at home. DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE ON A HOSE> Take the boat to a boat launch. Back in deep enough to safely run the engine at any speeds.. You WANT the water to FULLY rise up into the lower unit pump. The water WILL wet the seal on the prop shaft. Gear shift in neutral. Pull the boat out enough to hand turn the prop. Spins easy ? Back into the water & prime the gas line with the bulb.............
You have already checked that the battery water is STILL above the tops of the Lead plates in every cell ? Recharged it completely. Taken it to a favorite auto parts place & had them do a TRUE load test on it ?..........Weak battery will crank to slow & badly overheat the starter motor brushes & copper segments on the armature. BAD VERY BAD.
Try to start it the same way as you used to. No go...........Too bad....Then we do the check for a spark FIRST !! ..........Then I do not do house calls any more. To old in the head to depend on.
First FRIGGING THING TO check on the motor is ??????.................Pull ALL THE COVERS OFF !!! Check for mice chewing the insulation off wires. Back sides. Especially a part they can easily stand on. Check for nuts & shells in the air intake if they could get inside somehow. ..Check ALL hoses . 1 bite mark means A recheck with Lights & a MAGNIFYING GLASS.....See or smell mouse pee or stains ? Good luck.
Get lucky
Crappiebasser reply :
^ this
cyclops2 reply :
Daughter just did cookies. Great !! 
If you motor runs great on the 6 gallon tank ? FANTASTIC. ......................Still get rid of that old gasoline. You would kick yourself for being so cheap if it does NOT START or run smooth.. You would still be risking engine damage . IF you do not or WILL NOT have the gasoline checked for octane.
DO NOT use the Octane Booster CRAP. They sure as hell do not KNOW HOW MUCH YOU WOULD NEED . Or how the Hell to EQUALLY mix it in the tank.
Pump it out. & pump out ALL THE LINES & FILTERS BEFORE you put in new gasoline.
AS we age we are Supposed to get more suspicious & smarter.
BassnChris reply :
Yep......dispose of the gasoline for sure.
Way2slow reply :
GET RID OF THAT OLD GAS!!!!!
It could end up bing the most expensive tank you could ever run.
Two years is a long time to sit with old gas. I have tons of experience with your motor and I have seen more than one or two melt pistons because of a lean condition caused by dirty carbs from bad gas. I won't even run gas two months old in mine.
If you don't want to have your carbs cleaned to play it safe, you should at least premix a couple gallons with two ounces per gallon of SeaFoam, pull your fuel line off the input to the primer, connect a short piece to go in your container of premixed and run it on a hose a number of times for five minutes or so over the next couple of months. You will want to pull the spark plugs to clean/replace them before you take it to the lake.
The SeaFoam flush will not clean gummed carbs but will help on ones that just have a light film in them. Removing and cleaning them is your best option, but I think shops are charging close to $300 to do them now.
cyclops2 reply :
Many rebuilders only screw up your carb or give you a rebuilt one. Do nothing but sell rebuilts. Had enough of that crap in the 1950s. Cars, boats or airplanes.
tomustang reply :
Since it been sitting that long, go through the entire boat and all of its components.
For the motor, pull anything that has fuel go through it and inspect it.
Sam reply :
Hey Ghostshad, one of my favorite colors.
Check out this link to give you some tips on getting your boat ready for operation:
http://www.bassresource.com/bass-boats/
There are also a number of videos on YouTube about bass boats so look them up, too.
Hope you don't have any problems getting the Triton ready.
Happy New Year.
Way2slow reply :
Cyclops2
Granted, not all mechanics can build carbs worth a darn, and that term very loosely describes what some call themselves, but what would be your solution, buy six brand new cabs at about $150 Each?
I do all my own work, so I don't have to worry about others lack of abilities.
The problem he has, he's dealing with a motor that is very sensitive to fuel/air mixtures, and a dirty card WILL melt a piston in a heartbeat.
cyclops2 reply :
I started VERY young on all engines. But I now have a fantastic engine mechanic doing & checking all the engines needs. I described a intermittent starting problem on the Mercruiser V 8 220 hp carbed engine.......Thinks 3 seconds & says it is the main connector plug pin at the rear of the engine. The MALE SPLIT PIN. We go to the boat. He checks the start erratic condition. Opens the connector. Takes his pocket knife blade. Spreads the male pin a tiny bit. Been perfect for 2 years. He stops what he is doing on a Sunday to help me. $ 100 was a bargin. I had to force him to take it.
There are 2 types of people in marine repairs.
He is 77 also . I pick us old guys. He is just as good on computers also.
Way2slow reply :
Well, lets see now, I'll soon be 68. I'm very good with computers also, I've probably built a 100 since 1984 when I built my first one.
I started modifying my first two strokes about 1960, two MAC 8 chain saw engines I ran on my Go-Cart I raced back then.
Got into circle track dirt racing micro midgets at 13 and Drag racing cars at 15, couldn't drive them on the road (legally), but could race them.
Got into outboard boat racing in late 60's and moved up into Modified Sportsman car racing about that same time. Still building and modifying all my own engines and drive trains.
I'm a pretty good machinist, a very good gunsmith, and a very good shot with long guns (rifles and shotguns), not that great with pistols. I have a number of rifles I've built that easily shoot little bitty five shot groups at 500 yards and one hole groups at 100.
I have a degree in electronics with about 45 years experience in that.
22 of those years were in the military, where I got to play in the swamps on Fort Benning for my Ranger Rocker, and play with the Special Forces at Ft Bragg several times (the funny part about those two, I was in the Air Force).
Now, I don't have a clue as to what all that has to do with what kind of a mechanic I am.
I do know I have a 20ft Javelin bass boat that runs over 80 mph (loaded) with either of two of those same 225hp Johnson's he has, I've built and modified. They dino over 325hp at 6,300rpm and almost 300 pounds of torque at 4,500. I have been building a modifying the 3.0 Johnson's for about 15 years, so I know my way around that motor very well. So, usually when I say something about them, it's from experience. I have a five gallon bucket full of burnt pistons and a number of destroyed blocks laying around that are all from 3.0 Johnson's getting too lean. If you are lucky, it just messes up that one sleeve a little and you can have that one bored and just put one new piston in. If not so lucky, you have to put a new sleeve in also. If unlucky, it breaks or bends the rod and jams it though the block in places that can't be welded back, requiring another block, meaning a new motor for most, because the cost of repair at that point would be way to much it you had to pay someone.
But I'm still curious what you do with your carbs if you don't believe in rebuilding one. After all, he doesn't have your mechanic and he doesn't have me, so what option does he have?
Ghostshad reply :
Even though i put StaBil fuel stablizers in my gas everyone says its still bad,i talked to a marine mechanic and he says its safe to run my boat with the gas thats in it and i'm very confussed on what to do i know i can't afford to ruin my motor and if he's wrong thats what will happened.If i take the boat to a marine mechinic whats should i have him do. Money is very tight withs us taking it to a mechanic will be hard and hurting my motor fishing is over for me so any advice is helpful and i really don't know what to do even replacing my gas will be hard 55 gallon of gas is expensive to us..Thanks i need all the advice i can get we just get by on money and i'm 61 years old i'm loosing my job their moving i'll most likely have to retire and i'd like to have a boat to fish with. God Bless and Thanks
cyclops2 reply :
Way 2 slow
I think a sale is in order. To cut down operating expenses. What is your take ?
Ghost
How do you feel about going with a smaller engine & boat to keep operating & repair costs lower. The trade off is your, we assume very good motor & boat for a different boat with problems that could need money.
I have a 16' Lowe Aluminum with a 9.9 hp Evinrude that I fish 12 hours a day. 6 gallons of 2 stroke a week.
Also a 2002 Chaparral 18.5' bow rider with a 305 Mercruiser 220 hp carb. I have emptied the 38 gallons in a day. It only runs when daughter & son in law spend 4 days. Has 200 hours on the clock.
Ghostshad reply :
My boat is paid for,i have a brand new motor cost me about $ 8000.00 dollars just about everything is new.
cyclops2 reply :
We are keeping everything.
So how do we reduce the risk of a lean cylinder ? ....
Easiest way is to run from a new tank & lines with double the NORMAL amount of SEAFOAM in the first tankfull . ............. Start the engine at...... idle .......WITH THE ENGINE BACKED INTO LAKE WATER AT A RAMP. .......... ONLY with the motor in deep ENOUGH WATER. NO FRIGGIN garden hose crap that falls off or slide down while you HAD TO leave it running.............TOO MUCH DANGER on the garden hose. Ramp launch ONLY.
Right way to use SEAFOAM is to pour it into the EMPTY tank FIRSTt. Then add oil then gasoline last. That gives a very even mixing.
In the water at the ramp. Start & let it idle for about 10 minutes.......There is NO REAL heat in the cylinders. Should not cause any problem.
At 10 minutes. Stop the engine & go home. Let that SEAFOAM do what it does for about 2 days. Not critical. Back to the ramp...........Run another 10 minutes. Couple of days to let SEAFOAM work again.
Post back or P M me ......................By this time the SEAFOAM ....should have softened & moved the crud & water out of the engine.
AT that time we move up the neutral speeds to be sure the SEAFOAM ....IS... cleaning the high speed system out. It has been a long time since I did this kind of trying to save a engine.
We do the same 2 different 10 minutes of running at a faster speed.
We are really using the SEAFOAM as a VERY SLOW CARBURATOR CLEANER.
Waytoslow
what do you think about a 1 eyed Cyclops cleaning all the filters pump & carbs ??
Does he have a operating VARIABLE AUTOMATIC OILER to contend with ? Any precautions for his engine ?
Way2slow reply :
Well, I'm not real sure about a mechanic that says that gas would be just fine to run. I've never used StaBil, I only use SeaFoam, so don't have any experience with StaBil. I know in my home backup generator I have run gas treated with SeaFoam that was almost a year old, but a Honda Four stroke is a Totally different animal than your 225 Johnson. I honestly will not run gas, even treated with SeaFoam, that's over a couple of months old in my outboards, and especially one as sensitive to bad gas as your motor.
For me, it's a no brainier to dump the gas, purge the fuel system, check all fuel and oil lines for hard/brittl lines that should be replaced, clean/rebuild the carbs, and replace the water pump/impeller. The big difference is, it cost me less than $100 in parts and a few hours of my time and you are probably looking at over $600 - $800 to do the same thing, and then hope it's done properly. I know everyone has been concentrating on the gas issue, but a water pump that has sat that long is subject to be as bad as the gas you are concerned about. Anything less and you are rolling the dice.
You haven't said what model year you have, but the 93 and newer models have a cooling issue that causes #2 cylinder to run 50 degree higher EGTs and #5 about 30 degrees hotter than the others, so low water pressure from a weak water pump, only increases this problem. If you did a search, one of the most common failures of these engines are no. 2 cylinder blowing. This is related to the cooling issue. I always do a cooling mod on mine that balances the cooling, OMC knew of this mod in 1996, because a friend of mine that was a OMC factory backed racer developed it and gave it to to them. However, it was not until the introduction of the 3.3L motors his mod was incorporated.
If you do run it, and it's not running perfectly, especially at full throttle, don't keep going, thinking it will clear up.
Way2slow reply :
Well, I almost hate to say this, but I see you are in Tennessee, and I'm only a few hours south of you. You sound like a nice Christian type person and I'm a sucker for helping someone if I can, and would offer to do the work for you at no charge, but you would have furnish the parts. We do have a small problem with trying to make that offer. I will be leaving for south Texas the second week in Jan and won't be back probably until mid May and not sure we could make it happen that quick.
cyclops2 reply :
Thanks Way2slo.
Rich
blackmax135 reply :
On 12/27/2014 at 11:46 PM, Ghostshad said:Even though i put StaBil fuel stablizers in my gas everyone says its still bad,i talked to a marine mechanic and he says its safe to run my boat with the gas thats in it and i'm very confussed on what to do i know i can't afford to ruin my motor and if he's wrong thats what will happened.If i take the boat to a marine mechinic whats should i have him do. Money is very tight withs us taking it to a mechanic will be hard and hurting my motor fishing is over for me so any advice is helpful and i really don't know what to do even replacing my gas will be hard 55 gallon of gas is expensive to us..Thanks i need all the advice i can get we just get by on money and i'm 61 years old i'm loosing my job their moving i'll most likely have to retire and i'd like to have a boat to fish with. God Bless and Thanks
Ok I always put sta bil fuel stabilizer in my gas and after 7 or 8 months I can tell the gas isn't good enough to be running. If it were me I would do what TOMUSTANG said I much rather pay waist 200 bucks instead of damaging the motor and with in a few years blowing it up.
Way2slow reply :
HOLD EVERYTHING!!!!!.
He said this is a fairly new boat and motor, just how new are we talking? We may be mixing apples and oranges here.
I'm under the assumption we are talking the two stroke, 3.0L 225 Johnson.
He may be taking a lot newer than I'm thinking and be talking about the 225 Four Stroke Johnson.. If so, I'm gonna have to bow out and say forget everything I've posted, other than dump the gas and purge the system several times with SeaFoam, and still look at changing the water pump impeller.
I have never even laid eyeballs on a 225 Four Stoke, so I wouldn't even know what it was if it didn't have the cowling on it.
cyclops2 reply :
Great news
Street gas is going down. Perfect timing to Not run any of the tank into the engine. Marine gas should be coming down also.
Under $ 2..in several states............Cheapest & SAFEST ??? Drain & replace ALL OF IT... Tank lines & filters ALso disconnect the fuel line to the LOWEST carb 90 % of it will drain out........... DONE. ..........With no risk. I would still do the SEAFOAM 10 minute idle runs to clean up any dried out gasoline in the carbs.
I hate this Russian Roulette.
Ghostshad reply :
Thanks for all the help,and i know gas is going down i've thought the same thing perfect time.i work and ive lived on overtime until a few years ago.When i go fishing i run very little so as far as i'm concerned my motor is almost brand new.I paid $ 7800.00 to rebuild my motor.He told me $5000.00 and i ended up with $7800.00. When i go fishing i run my trolling motor and my big motor i just get it good and hot.So wear and tear should be no issue. Motor 1999 Johnson 225 i think its a high output. Thanks Everybody for the help.
Ghostshad reply :
Some more information 2 stroke 6 cycle and is a 1999 Johnson 225 H O God Bless and Thanks for all your HELP
Way2slow reply :
Ok, we are on the same page then. Wow, that's a huge amount of money for a rebuild.
Definitely, DO NOT run that gas in an HO, hopefully, it still is. The problem is most think an HO is just an upgraded 225, and the powereheads are the same, so if they get another one, they get a 225, and you come out on the short end of the stick. The fact is, the HO is a actually a 250 powerehead they put 225 decals on. The exhaust port is timed different and a lot larger than the 225, so if they you lose about 20 hp if they use a 225 powerhead.
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