Whatever you call it, I think I want one. My old boat gets up on plane okay with just me in it but Add a passenger it really struggles. It gets there but it struggles. I threw a few sang bags (about 100lbs) in the front storage and it worked just fine, but I'd much rather not waste the storage and fuel. I also like the low speed on plane idea too. So I want to add a foil. I've read a bit on these things but I have a few questions.
I like the idea of the stingray no bolts required concept. So it will likely be one of those models unless folks have a better suggestion. I am pretty budget conscious though.
Mostly I am unsure what to get in regards to how much lift. ???
Im also hoping the hydrofoil might be the answer to another issue I have. This boat walks back and forth at low speed. Give it some throttle then it runs straight as an arrow but at low speed, I zig zag like a politician. Might this help?
I have one of the no bolts required models. It fits well and I’ve never had a problem with it coming loose or anything like that. I got it just so my bow wouldn’t be so high when I’m just moving around slowly. It’s also been helpful when I pull the kids around on a tube. Sometimes I take it off just because (no bolts is great for that).
I have the SE Sport 400. It’s on a 19.5 foot aluminum boat with a 200 Mercury. When I have it on, top end speed is not as good but it works well for the purposes that I got it for. Hope this helps.
Thank you, Al. I forgot to mention my boat is 16' with 115hp.
In the meantime, here's a trick to try to get up on plane quicker when you have another on the boat with you.
As you are getting up on plane steer the boat to the left and then the right. When it's done right, it will provide more lift for the boat at the stern. You'll find what tempo and how much steering input to use with practice. It really works quite well.
I'm not so sure about the sandbags in the bow. It will take a few, or several mph at the top end. It keeps the bow down, and that keeps the speed down as well.
Do a google search for Chris Bailey Marine, he makes a foil which is outstanding.
One caveat is he is an oil rig worker who does two week stints on the offshore rig so if he is out there he cannot reply but is very quick to respond otherwise.
Thank you fellas. Rhino, the sand bags worked but like you said I lose some speed. I also lose some fuel economy and storage doing that.
Brian I will take a look for Chris. I have a long time until I actually need this. I wont be working on the boat for a few more months.
How about some info on the boat and outboard engine you have??
Tom
A 16ft boat with a 115 should pop up on plane with no problem at all. I imagine you don't have the right prop for the boat. A 4 blade usually lifts the stern well and helps plane at low speeds, and you need it to have the pitch that will give you the recommended max rpm of the outboard at wide open throttle. The merc x7 spitfire prop has a lot of people smiling.
Boat is a '79 Galstron HPV160. Motor '79 Johnson 115. Prop is what came with the motor decades ago but its in great shape.
What are those, Cat?
Your boat could have a few issues. This is a glassed over wooden stringer hull and glassed over wooden transom. If water has gotten into the wood it dry rots. Your engine is very heavy for the hp output and more then likely doesn't have power trim, may have fixed adjustment pin. Way2slow is very knowledgeable regarding this engine, I am not!
You may also have a aluminum prop? Do you know where the plane pad is reference the centerline of the prop shaft? With the engine level with the plane pad the prop shaft should be about 3 1/2" below the pad.
Do you have a tachometer? What rpm's do you run wide open throttle?
Check your engine tilt position, the engine mounting height (3 1/2" prop shaft /plane pad, take off the prop and inspected for cracks, inspect the hull for trapped water.
A 4 blade SST prop would help you more then Hydrofoil and trim pads may help you?
Tom
You got that right, it certainly has a few issues lol.
I dug/cut out all the old stringers and transom and replaced the wood and glassed them back in. For good measure I added a 1/4" steel diamond plate to the transom so the back of the boat is a bit heavier than it use to be.
I do have power trim. I start out at the lowest setting then trim up once im planed out.
I think the motor is losing some power also so i probably need to take a hard look at that.
What i probably need is a new boat more than anything but I'm going to have to keep milking this one for a little longer.
I ran one on a Mercury 4-stroke 60-HP for 12 years, from when I bought it and until I recently traded it in, and it worked great with absolutely no issues.
On 12/9/2017 at 6:38 AM, Rick Howard said:What are those, Cat?
Nauticus Smart Tabs SX
In my personal opinion this work better than Hydrofoil, whale tale, cavitation plate, etc.
I'm going into my third season with them & absolutely have no issues with em.
Smoother & Faster Acceleration
40% less Bow Rise & 35% Lower On Plane Speed
More Top Speed & No Porpoising or Chine Walking
Improves Handling & Smoother Ride In Any Water
Improved Fuel Economy (11% +)
On 12/9/2017 at 7:58 PM, Catt said:
Nauticus Smart Tabs SX
In my personal opinion this work better than Hydrofoil, whale tale, cavitation plate, etc.
I'm going into my third season with them & absolutely have no issues with em.
Smoother & Faster Acceleration
40% less Bow Rise & 35% Lower On Plane Speed
More Top Speed & No Porpoising or Chine Walking
Improves Handling & Smoother Ride In Any Water
Improved Fuel Economy (11% +)
Catt...tell us a bit about the trim tabs...what do they cost, how do they work, how hard to install...stuff like that.
...they sure look interesting, and I have heard that trim tabs are used frequently on saltwater boats.
On 12/10/2017 at 10:46 AM, Further North said:Catt...tell us a bit about the trim tabs...what do they cost, how do they work, how hard to install...stuff like that.
...they sure look interesting, and I have heard that trim tabs are used frequently on saltwater boats.
Trim tabs are used frequently in I/O's. My dad had a I/O and electric trim tabs on his Pro Line. The electric trim tabs were nice because we were able to compensate for uneven loads and allow the boat to ride level. Unfortunately I have no clue about the smart trim tabs that @Catt has mentioned
Tools required
drill
3/16″ bit
phillips screw driver
Nauticus Smart Tabs are not hydraulic or electric. Y'all know how you adjust your motor by pulling the "pin" & raising or lowering the motor then reinserting the pin? The smart tabs or adjusted the same way.
I've read numerous reviews stating they had problems adjusting the tabs & I had the same problems. Until I realized the problem was operator error, I was fighting the tabs with my hydraulic trim on the outboard. I set the tabs for shallow water, dropped the trim slightly below vertical, & never touched the trim except for minor adjustments for top end.
I paid $120 for mine at Walmart
http://nauticusinc.com
The only issue you will have is backing the boat down, if you back down to fast the tabs will pull the transom down but so will any trim tabs.
Any other questions feel free to ask ????
can these tabs be installed on a riveted aluminum?
On 12/20/2017 at 5:00 PM, TriCityBassin' said:can these tabs be installed on a riveted aluminum?
Yes sir they can ????
There is no substitute for trim tabs. I had power tabs on a 22ft bay boat with a 200 OB and did exactly what Catt said
No indication if @Rick Howard made a purchase, but I did. Purchased, installed, and extremely pleased with the Nauticus Smart Tabs. 17.5 ft aluminum Skeeter (yr 2000) under powered with a 40 hp motor. Three batteries, Tools, 20 gal. gas tank, large live well, motor, all behind the seats. Motor screamed when trying to get on plane. Boat ran nose up even on plane. Now, on plane with no effort. Now nose down, can see where I am going. Based on where the live well intake and exit is located the 7 x 8 inch tabs were the largest that would fit. Only had to re-position the fish finder transducer for installation of the tabs. My packet had two screw sizes. The larger 4 screws were for the top of the actuators and the 6 smaller screws were for the tabs. Only word of caution that I would offer is, check the screw sizes with the drill bit you are going to use. I did not and had one hole in the boat that was too big for the first screw. I know, this is elementary for all drilling, but this old feller just read the instructions. 3/16 inch bit was the wrong size for both screws. That was the only hiccup of the installation. Thanks to @Catt and @NHBull for their comments that helped me choose the, right for me, installation.
I always believed trim tabs had to be hydraulic or electric to work until I ran smart tabs.
I have not bought anything yet. My boat is all bundled up for the winter. Once we are a little closer to spring I will make a decision.
I have a very well used 14.5' Astroglass bass boat with a 40HP outboard. It has no tilt or trim other than a manual position setting for the outboard which I set for an average tilt. It suffered to get on plane with two people and never got on plane with three people. I purchased the Sting Ray hydrofoil classic. $50.00
This was amazing It popped right up on plane immediately with one two or three people.
Simple installation took less than 20 minutes to install.
Good luck!
I have an aluminum foil on my Bullet 21XDC/Promax 2.5L. I'm also running a four blade prop that has lots of stern lift. Boat planes in just under four seconds at 16-17 mph. The foil has no effect on top end, since it's not in the water when the boat is full planed out.