Damaged Prop 2025

NY_Jig reply :

I launched my boat into some heavily stained water the other day which made for zero visibility of under water obstructions, even those just under the surface. While driving away from the launch at just above idle speed to some bridge pillars I intended to fish, I felt and heard the dreaded banging noise we occasionally experience and the motor began bouncing and then shut off. I had obviously gone over something that was much harder than a submerged piece of wood. I turned the key off and raised my motor to find one of the prop fins had sustained a gouge that I would describe as follows. If you could imagine taking a dime and laying 3/4 of it across the prop fin, the gouge is about that size in a half-moon shape. The motor fired back up with no issue and after fishing the bridge pillars with no success, I made about a 10 minute run up the lake at WOT, and then back to the launch when I was done fishing for the day with no apparent issue. My boat planed and ran on pad in what seemed to be a normal fashion. Upon doing some research at the end of the day, I read some different information on various websites that stated running a damaged prop could potentially cause motor issues in the future. I intend to replace the prop, but I'm not made of money, and don't intend to spend $150.00 at the drop of the hat unless it's absolutely mandatory. Just looking for some input on whether I can continue to fish and replace the prop in a reasonable amount of time, or if I should replace it immediately. I'm not sure if some of you with more experience would consider this minor prop damage or serious prop damage. I'm running a 2012 16' Crestliner with a 50hp Mercury EFI 4-stroke outboard with a factory aluminum prop. Thanks in advance.

A-Jay reply :

Any prop damage causes a certain level of shaft vibration.

The more damage, usually the more vibration.

There is also a chance you may have bent / otherwise cause damage to the propeller shaft.

This is also mostly undesirable and can & usually does cause some level of vibration depending on it's severity.

Vibration is an arch enemy of your outboard motor.

While one can continue to run a unit with some damage (and many do), like most any deal, sooner or later there's usually collateral damage as a result. IMO best course of action is to have an 'experienced eye' check out your rig.

At the very least sounds like you may need a new prop.

Finally - stained water is perfectly safe to run it.

However it's important to know where safe depths are & where hazards lie in advance of the launch.

Good Luck

A-Jay

slonezp reply :

@A-Jay is spot on. Repair is also an option. In most cases you should be able to get a prop repaired for about half what a new one costs.

iabass8 reply :

Echo above. Damaged props will cause vibration to the prop shaft and can/will ruin the motor. Personally, I would just take the prop to a reputable prop shop and have him repair it/balance it. It will look brand new and cost will be around 150 as long as he doesn't have to do any crazy welding. 150 is cheap insurance as opposed to thousands on a motor. It's your motor you can chance it but personally I would not if it were mine. You just never know.

I just read you run a stock allumnium prop. Repair will be a lot cheaper than 150 which is what a SS prop repair would average. Alumnium props aren't that expensive. I would just buy new.

Jig Man reply :

The prop is likely out of balance as well as having a chip out of a blade. Your best bet is to have the prop fixed and check the prop shaft to make sure it isn't bent. Going the cheap on repairs could cost you a new lower unit and that will likely go over a thousand.

NY_Jig reply :

Thanks for the info guys. I’m less than impressed with the available options for boat repair in my neck of the woods so naturally I worry I’m going to be overdiagnosed and overpriced in the end by someone looking to make a buck. I will get it to a shop though and have someone look at it. Regardless of what work it may or may not need, I think I’ll put a new prop on myself given that it’s not an overly difficult task and can save myself the labor cost there.

Way2slow reply :

I would order a new prop on line and be done with it. If you look on your prop you will see the size and pitch cast into it. A dealer is going to charged you $100 or more just to say you need to repair or replace that prop.

If the RPM was not right at max with normal load, with you current prop, this would be time get a prop that will correct that. One change in pitch size up or down changes the engine about 300 rpm

I definitely would not run that prop and I would get a SS. Makes a big difference in how boat performs, but until you try one, you will never realize how much.

I don't know how many people I've seen act like they would go in to financial ruin if the spent the money for a SS prop, until they tried one that was suited for their boat (all are not equal). Then you couldn't give them an aluminum.

I always have to laugh when someone will spend thousands of dollars on a rig and won't spend a few hundred on the one critical item that transfers the power of the motor to the water.

I do recommend you go to a dealer that will let you try before you buy when it comes to selecting the best SS prop, and not try to order your first one on line, thinking you are going to save a few bucks. That can get very expensive, and a good dealer/prop guy can give you valuable assistance.

TOXIC reply :

The best thing to do if you have a steel prop is to buy new and get your prop shaft checked. I would get the damaged one repaired and keep it for a spare the next time you bung it up. If you have a stainless prop then it is more$$ but they are readily fixable. I munched some rocks in Wisconsin a few years ago and had the prop repaired. I also have a spare. I took the opportunity to have my prop blueprinted and worked as long as it had to go in for repair.

fishnkamp reply :

You said you were running the stock Mercury aluminum prop. Most likely that was a 3 blade Black Max. They are okay but not really special in performance. I like the new Spitfire props from Mercury but I run a very good prop from Turning Point called a Hustler. They can be purchased from your local West Marine and on line as well. With them you order your prop and a hub kit that fits your motor. They are a 3 or 4 blade performance aluminum prop with vent holes and a bit of cupping to give an all around boost in speed and low speed handling. That is what Merc designed the Spitfire props to do as well. I think I would jump to one of those and then later have a good shop fix your original prop for a spare.What state do you live in?

NY_Jig reply :

On 7/24/2018 at 12:25 AM, fishnkamp said:

You said you were running the stock Mercury aluminum prop. Most likely that was a 3 blade Black Max. They are okay but not really special in performance. I like the new Spitfire props from Mercury but I run a very good prop from Turning Point called a Hustler. They can be purchased from your local West Marine and on line as well. With them you order your prop and a hub kit that fits your motor. They are a 3 or 4 blade performance aluminum prop with vent holes and a bit of cupping to give an all around boost in speed and low speed handling. That is what Merc designed the Spitfire props to do as well. I think I would jump to one of those and then later have a good shop fix your original prop for a spare.What state do you live in?

I live in Upstate NY, just an hour north of Albany. My current prop is the OEM 3 blade, which I would agree is most likely a Black Max. I purchased the boat from the original owner in late March of this year. I know some of the above members have suggested a SS prop and to shell out a bit more money, which I'm open and receptive too, however, I'm just a blue collar guy like the majority of us on here. Dropping $300-$400 dollars to keep my boat on the water doesn't exactly brighten my day. It's the cost of doing business as an avid angler though and I understand that.

Now that I've stepped down off my soap box... I intend to look at another aluminum prop and will certainly look into the Spitfire. I'm gonna call down to a shop that's about 30 minutes from me and give them the run down of what I have going on. Additional info or insight from other members is welcomed.

slonezp reply :

On 7/23/2018 at 8:38 PM, TOXIC said:

The best thing to do if you have a steel prop is to buy new and get your prop shaft checked. I would get the damaged one repaired and keep it for a spare the next time you bung it up. If you have a stainless prop then it is more$$ but they are readily fixable. I munched some rocks in Wisconsin a few years ago and had the prop repaired. I also have a spare. I took the opportunity to have my prop blueprinted and worked as long as it had to go in for repair.

Got ya beat. This was a bad day. Low water on the river and I broke plane too early.

Further North reply :

On 7/24/2018 at 10:05 AM, slonezp said:

Got ya beat. This was a bad day. Low water on the river and I broke plane too early.

Ick...

Way2slow reply :

One thing to consider, if regularly fishing areas where prop damage is common, then it's smart to run aluminum. That greatly reduces the chance of LU damage and the cost to repair/ replace it is significantly less. My 9.9 and 4hp get aluminum because they are used in rivers that have tons of blowdowns and sub surface obstructions everything else is ss.

slonezp reply :

On 7/24/2018 at 10:38 AM, Further North said:

Ick...

Yeah. This was on my Mirrocraft. I don't dare launch the Predator on that stretch of river

Further North reply :

Pictures would help, but from your description you need to either get the prop repaired or replaced.

If you were even semi-local I'd recommend Brainerd Props ( http://brainerdprops.com/ ) but shipping would likely be prohibitive. There's someone like him near-ish to you and it'll be to your benefit to find them.

On 7/24/2018 at 10:42 AM, slonezp said:

Yeah. This was on my Mirrocraft. I don't dare launch the Predator on that stretch of river

A couple-three years back I launched my boat on a semi-local reservoir...end of the season, new prop, hadn't so much as even scratched one in two years...

Backing it off the trailer, motor wasn't even on, but with the weight of the car pushing it...I heard the dreaded underwater "clang" and boat lurched to the side a good foot.

Didn't look as bad as yours...but one entire blade was bent at least 1/4" backwards. There was a BAMF rock right in the middle of the sand launch...apparently all the locals knew about it but nobody had bothered to mark the darn thing...Was sorta hard to see...but man...could you ever feel it at anything above an idle...

...good thing I always have at least two props on board...

Further North reply :

Worst continuous prop abuse I ever saw was on a lake up in Canada that will remain nameless...but a solid eight hour drive from the border.

The folks in the cabin right below us in camp were using resort boats...and they were using up a lot of casting fluid each evening after fishing.

Day two, they tore off most of a blade...how they didn't wreck the whole prop baffles me.

Day four, they ground down all three blades on a new prop, worse than @slonezp did above.

Day five...whole lower unit, had to be towed miles back to camp...

They left with a heck of a bill...it was four hours to the nearest place that could fix that motor...

slonezp reply :

On 7/24/2018 at 10:43 AM, Further North said:

Pictures would help, but from your description you need to either get the prop repaired or replaced.

If you were even semi-local I'd recommend Brainerd Props ( http://brainerdprops.com/ ) but shipping would likely be prohibitive. There's someone like him near-ish to you and it'll be to your benefit to find them.

A couple-three years back I launched my boat on a semi-local reservoir...end of the season, new prop, hadn't so much as even scratched one in two years...

Backing it off the trailer, motor wasn't even on, but with the weight of the car pushing it...I heard the dreaded underwater "clang" and boat lurched to the side a good foot.

Didn't look as bad as yours...but one entire blade was bent at least 1/4" backwards. There was a BAMF rock right in the middle of the sand launch...apparently all the locals knew about it but nobody had bothered to mark the darn thing...Was sorta hard to see...but man...could you ever feel it at anything above an idle...

...good thing I always have at least two props on board...

I haven't fished that stretch of river in 6 years. It's plentiful with smallies. I bought a 14' Lund 2 years ago with the intention of fishing there again. Life has happened since then and the little Lund is in the garage at the house in Wisconsin Dells and my garage here in IL is full of my daughters crap.

Further North reply :

I can run down and use that little boat for you, if you need someone to give it a work out. ????

...actually probably not. The Dells give me hives and there's better water closer...

Vilas15 reply :

On 7/24/2018 at 1:21 AM, NY_Jig said:

I know some of the above members have suggested a SS prop and to shell out a bit more money, which I'm open and receptive too, however, I'm just a blue collar guy like the majority of us on here. Dropping $300-$400 dollars to keep my boat on the water doesn't exactly brighten my day. It's the cost of doing business as an avid angler though and I understand that.

Now that I've stepped down off my soap box... I intend to look at another aluminum prop and will certainly look into the Spitfire. I'm gonna call down to a shop that's about 30 minutes from me and give them the run down of what I have going on. Additional info or insight from other members is welcomed.

I've read that going to an SS prop will only give you any performance gains if you're running 150+ HP. I'd agree with the other post about aluminum being more forgiving if you hit something again in the future. Even if the SS got you up on plane a second faster or gave you another 2 MPH it wouldn't be worth the additional cost.

NHBull reply :

If you play this game, it’s only a matter of time before it happens. My lake eats props and low ends. This weekend 2 bass boats lost pros passing on the correct side of a bout, but didn’t have the local knowledge to know the body had moved and with low water bad things happen.

i run aluminum at this time of the year, with an aluminum spare. Use the opportunity to buy a new one, and repair the dinged one ............I know, it is easy to spend other people’s money ????

TOXIC reply :

When I damaged my prop it was the first time I ever dinged one up. I threw an ear on one but never ground one down. Situational awareness is high on my list but sometimes you just get caught. I was on water I had navigated for 21 years in Wisconsin and knew exactly where all of the rock outcroppings and shallow points were. I was waiting for the family to catch up in the pontoon boat while I sat facing the main lake in a canal. My mistake was not turning around and looking at my position before I throttled down. The wind/waves had drifted me in close to shore and was at my back. BTW, that's the first time I ever in 21 years threw my extra prop in the truck. Glad I had it. When I got back to Virginia, I sent the damaged on off to be repaired and to have them add a little cup so that it lifted the nose of my heavy Ranger. I forgot to tell them I wanted the lift at lower RPMs so although my prop lifts much better, it does it at WOT. I wanted the lift for rough water slower runs.

Way2slow reply :

I run a 25hp Merc on my 14' jon in bigger, cleaner rivers and open water. The SS prop on it makes a very noticeable difference in how fast it gets on plane and top speed, especially with two people, ice chest and gear.

The blades on aluminum props just fold back and distort too much to maintain their pitch and contour. That's why they can't match the hole shot and performance of SS.

People use all kinds of rational as to why they run aluminum props because of the difference in cost, but if they ever run a SS prop that's properly matched to their setup, they usually won't go back to aluminum.

The key to it is the properly matched to their setup. If you just go out and buy a SS prop, knowing little about what you are doing, you are probably not going to be happy. Their are just too many variables to understand when matching a prop to a setup. That's why on my bass boat and flats boat, not only do I buy SS props, I have them custom tuned.

Well, actually I just order them from Bob Lipton, I guess he's still around, haven't had to buy one for several years.

TOXIC reply :

I thought the biggest reason for tin over stainless is that the tin props bend and save the lower unit whereas a stainless prop will be more likely to take the lower unit with it.

A-Jay reply :

On 7/24/2018 at 8:57 PM, TOXIC said:

I thought the biggest reason for tin over stainless is that the tin props bend and save the lower unit whereas a stainless prop will be more likely to take the lower unit with it.

If your prop is riding on a Mercury Quicksilver Flo-Torq II system - it could really help.

I bet you have one.

Flo-Torq II System is compatible with and can increase the performance of almost all marine engines.

It is specially designed to reduce slippage, yet still flex during engine shifting, the Flo-Torq II cushions and protects the drivetrain from most impacts. Plus, the Flo-Torq II System also provides unmatched corrosion protection – giving you peace of mind and the freedom to make the most of your time on the water.

Shift Shock

The Flo-Torq II System is more flexible than competitive hub systems and thus minimizes stress on the engine, engine drive and propeller when the engine is shifted into gear.

Breakaway

When large underwater obstructions are encountered, the Delrin sleeve of the Flo-Torq II System is designed to "break away" following impact, ensuring that damage to the engine, engine drive and propeller is kept to a minimum. And better yet, the sleeve can easily be replaced by you! Competing hub systems take longer to break away after impact, increasing the risk of major damage to both the engine and the drive.

Prop Sleeve

At the heart of the Flo-Torq II System, Quicksilver uses brass and Delrin – an advanced, noncorrosive plastic from DuPont® – that virtually eliminate any opportunity for hub corrosion. In comparison, competitor systems use brass, aluminum and plastic components – resulting in a higher probability that the parts will corrode and fuse together. Thus making propeller replacement almost impossible.

A-Jay

NHBull reply :

On 7/24/2018 at 8:57 PM, TOXIC said:

I thought the biggest reason for tin over stainless is that the tin props bend and save the lower unit whereas a stainless prop will be more likely to take the lower unit with it.

While there are definitely performance benefits with SS, many choose aluminum because replacing a prop is cheaper than the shaft. Marinas on my lake make a small fortune replacing shafts and low ends because the SS is usually stronger than both. New hubs have been developed to absorb the shock, but can still fail

NY_Jig reply :

Well, bad news fellas. I brought it to a shop and faced the crappy reality of owning a boat. My prop shaft is in fact bent, as the service tech showed me the wobble as he spun the prop. His original intention was to replace the entire lower unit, but first asked if I had insurance on the boat. I told him I did not, as I didn't think it was necessary, given that this isn't a $30,000+ bass boat I bought new of the show room floor. He was understanding and said I may want to consider it going forward for incidents like this. He said it would cost a pretty penny to replace the lower unit so if I wasn't going through insurance, we wouldn't go the route. His intentions are now to pull and inspect the prop shaft and send it out to be straightened. He said he will have to re-seal everything and obviously get a new prop back on it. I was quoted roughly in the $1,800-$2,000 range. I'm still a little sick over it, but what's a guy to do, it has to be fixed.

The worst part about it is that he said the prop damage was minor and could have been fixed with a refurb. Unfortunately, running the motor like I did afterwards (purely due to inexperience and lack of knowledge) is what most likely caused the shaft bend. Is it normal to have the urge to put the boat on the front lawn with a FREE sign??

iabass8 reply :

How anybody drives a boat without insurance is beyond me. You should always always always have insurance...what would you have done if you accidentally hit somebody? Insurance is cheap. Hopefully your gears arent ruined. Those will run 800-1000 alone. I would just get a new oem lower unit if I were you. Price will be close to the same for a 50-60hp....and get insurance.

NY_Jig reply :

I most definitely will be getting insurance going forward!

Way2slow reply :

No, what's too bad is you not know how to fix it yourself. Even with all new parts, it would cost me about a $500 to repair. If a used one can be found, it's about a $300 repair.

A little mechanical knowledge is golden when you start messing with boats, well actually most anything when you have to pay the stupid high material cost and labor rates it cost to have some one else do repairs these days.

It would give me cold chills to even think about having to have someone else fix anything for me.

Further North reply :

On 7/26/2018 at 8:28 AM, Way2slow said:

No, what's too bad is you not know how to fix it yourself. Even with all new parts, it would cost me about a $500 to repair. If a used one can be found, it's about a $300 repair.

A little mechanical knowledge is golden when you start messing with boats, well actually most anything when you have to pay the stupid high material cost and labor rates it cost to have some one else do repairs these days.

It would give me cold chills to even think about having to have someone else fix anything for me.

I hear you...but time is worth more than money at this point in my life, to me.

A good shop could have that back to me in a few days, where I'd only be able to work on it on weekends...sacrificing days on the water.

Brew City Bass reply :

Very sorry to hear about the damage.

My first year of owning a boat I toasted two props and luckily didn't bend my shaft even with running it on a damaged prop both times. I haven't taken it in to be looked at, but it runs at no noticeable difference and it's only a 96 force 75hp. So even if it was bent, it'd be more $$ to fix than the motor is worth.

How's the fishing been up north though? It's been pretty great down here in the Milwaukee area!

Way2slow reply :

After reading, I was getting to far in left field so I deleted the content of this post.

379

Damaged Prop 2025

related Bass Boats Canoes Kayaks topic

previous topic

next topic

most viewed Bass Boats Canoes Kayaks topic